[wildbill]

did the first 500kl or 300 mile oil change today. ran the bike about 100 miles and once home i drained the oil. although it's only 8 to 10 degrees celsius i was very surprised that the oil was only luke warm.
here's a photo of what came out almost 2 litres



for those new guys thinking of doing an oil chance to 2012 model or later.

1. main drain plug



2.oil filter screen under this one


3. oil filter housing



4. now the main purpose of this exercise - the forth drain point just below front engine mount. centre of photo
this only appeared from 2012. my 2011 c5 had none but the previous bike  the 2012 c5 had this plug....same as the new 2013 b5.
this plug holds close to 500 mils of oil so it's worth the trouble to drain. apart from that it's the easiest one to do
like i said earlier the purpose of these photo's is just to show member's of newer bike we now have 4 drain outlets -not three.

[wildbill]

forgot to mention - oil filter changed

[JVS]

Good stuff, keep pushing those Km/mi 

[wildbill]

video link to the bike. rear wheel turns while idling so i guess idling too high.
thoughts on this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=0o_1YTQlN0w

[Dazzler]

I have noticed my back wheel rotating at idle on the centre stand also but have not been concerned about it.
I tend to think it's normal as I recall other posts reporting similar observations.

Das

[JVS]

The idle is just a tad high. You can bring it down a bit. On cold mornings, or after a night out sitting in the cold, my bike's rear tyre also spins for a little while. After the engine warms up a bit, it doesn't spin anymore. But then again, my idle is around 950RPM. Maybe the thicker oil when the engine is cold affects the transmission. On iron barrels, I've seen the tyre spinning even when the engine is warm. I think it is normal..at least some spin. Other members will have a better explanation for sure.

[tooseevee]

The idle is just a tad high. You can bring it down a bit. On cold mornings, or after a night out sitting in the cold, my bike's rear tyre also spins for a little while. After the engine warms up a bit, it doesn't spin anymore. But then again, my idle is around 950RPM. Maybe the thicker oil when the engine is cold affects the transmission. On iron barrels, I've seen the tyre spinning even when the engine is warm. I think it is normal..at least some spin. Other members will have a better explanation for sure.

           It's normal, not to be alarmed about. It's clutch dependent.  Friction between the clutch plates turns the rear wheel. There's enough tiny bit of friction to make the final drive turn the wheel even though the tranny's in neutral. The slightest drag (hand or foot) on the rear wheel stops mine from turning. If you can't stop it, especially with the clutch lever pulled, then you might want to worry a bit about clutch adjustment.

        Does the UCE engine share engine, tranny & clutch oil? In that case oil weight will effect rear wheel turning in neutral X temperature.     

[JVS]

It's clutch dependent.  Friction between the clutch plates turns the rear wheel. There's enough tiny bit of friction to make the final drive turn the wheel even though the tranny's in neutral. The slightest drag (hand or foot) on the rear wheel stops mine from turning. If you can't stop it, especially with the clutch lever pulled, then you might want to worry a bit about clutch adjustment.

Thanks, that is what I had in my mind, but wanted someone else to confirm.

Does the UCE engine share engine, tranny & clutch oil? In that case oil weight will effect rear wheel turning in neutral X temperature.     

Yup.

It's normal, not to be alarmed about.

Shouldn't be that bad, but according to my ear and a rough calculation using an audio software...the idle seems just a little high. Counting pulses (thumps) in 1 second, then multiplying by 60 and then 2. In this case, the half pulses in 1 second were 12, which is 720 per-minute. Multiplying by 2 then gives us approximately 1440 RPM. The factory idle spec for UCE Enfields is 1050 +/- 200 RPM. So, IMHO it will be better to lower the idle just a bit  Slow thump thump thump 

[tooseevee]

           It's normal, not to be alarmed about.

           All I meant by the above was that your rear wheel turning was normal. It wasn't a comment on how Fast it was turning, IOW your idle speed.

[barenekd]

The rear wheel turning is caused by oil drag between the main transmission shaft and the countershaft. As the oil warms up the wheel turning will decrease, or disappear. There is nothing wring with the bike, it's very common in old English style gearboxes that have countershafts, and that is most of them.
Oil temp generally runs quite low in Enfields. I guess they were  built to withstand heat but they don't really warm up enough in cool weather. I check my oil temp on a low 60^o day after a fairly long uphill run on an interstate. The oil temp as only 182^o. I'd be surprised if the oil temp made 210^o on a hot day. After I checked it, I certainly never worried about it again!
Bare

[tooseevee]

The rear wheel turning is caused by oil drag between the main transmission shaft and the countershaft. As the oil warms up the wheel turning will decrease, or disappear. There is nothing wring with the bike, it's very common in old English style gearboxes that have countershafts, and that is most of them.

Bare

           So I was completely off base. I've been dealing with open basket Primo belt drive on harleys too long & spoke too soon, I guess.

            If I don't balance clutch spring (pressure plate) pressure just right between being able to kick it over & yet get no clutch slip, I have to get it so the clutch basket stops spinning when I pull the clutch in (IOW the rear wheel would not be turning (or just barely) if it was off the ground). Otherwise you get a horrible clunk when hitting 1st gear at a stop sign from neutral. I get pretty much silent shifts from there on up or down. But it's taken years to get that feel. I've even bent clutch levers to get a hair longer throw.

         It's much easier with a foot clutch; you get a longer throw than with a handlebar clutch lever & the plates separate more. You get totally silent shifts with a foot clutch & a jockey shift. The RE has a sweeet clutch  & the shifts are just click, click, click.

          Sorry. Got carried away      

[barenekd]

Not that far off base, the oil between the clutch plates will cause the same thing, but you have to have the clutch lever pulled to experience that. It's called clutch drag.
However they were talking about being in neutral and the clutch is engaged.
Bare

[tooseevee]

Not that far off base, the oil between the clutch plates will cause the same thing, but you have to have the clutch lever pulled to experience that. It's called clutch drag.
However they were talking about being in neutral and the clutch is engaged.
Bare

        Oh, yeah, I totally understand all that.

         I should have stayed out of it with my open belt primary, dry clutch comments. Different animal. 

[JVS]

           All I meant by the above was that your rear wheel turning was normal. It wasn't a comment on how Fast it was turning, IOW your idle speed.

Oops! My bad.