[Superchuck]

Has anyone tried the anti-gravity batteries?  I like the small size and light weight, but there is a disclaimer on their website: 

"Please note if you use older classic bikes from mid 1980s and earlier you should update the charging sytems to a modern voltage regulator, damaged voltage regulartor can overcharge the battery and damage it"

I don't know much about electrics in general except that very little of our bikes has been re-engineered since mid-twentieth century.  Does the Electra AVL (circa 2009) have one of these 'outdated' voltage regulators which might damage (overcharge) the battery in question?

Link to battery's website:  http://antigravitybatteries.com/ag-401/

Or:  http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-electronic-parts-small-sealed-12v-antigravity-battery-ag-401.html

Thanks to anyone who can help!

Chuck

[rvcycleguy]

Are you building a cafe racer?  The spec's indicate a small cc bike of 250-350.  It also indicates you can charge the battery with a running car?  I would not recommend doing that.  Looks like a battery for race cycles, bikes that don't have a charging system? 

[Superchuck]

I'm turning my AVL into more of a minimalist/cafe style bike, but not for racing, just riding around.  I think it specifically suggests race use because of the occasional electric starting required... ie: this battery won't have enough power to start a big american twin cruiser a few times a day every day.  I'm thinking that since I'm kick start only (my solenoid broke) that my power needs would be met with this battery.  Just worried about the over-charging thing...

On reading the quote again it seems like they're discouraging the use of these batteries on bikes with old and potentially FAULTY voltage regulators.

Has anyone ran into overcharging issues with their enfields?

[Adrian]

Hi,

I never heard of this problem with the Electra-X. The charging system on this model has a Japanese-style 3 phase alternator and combined regulator/rectifier unit.

There are plenty of generic 3 phase regulator/rectifiers around if you don't think the OEM part is good enough for the job, but I would be tempted just to try the battery. I notice they also have higher capacity batteries available, in case you get round to fitting a new solenoid. 5AH is probably better for K/S only.

Regards,

Adrian

[High On Octane]

A faulty charging system will damage ANY battery if it's overcharged, but AGM batteries seem to be the most vulnerable.  Just take a multimeter and test your system at the battery terminals.  At idle you should be putting out about 13.25-13.5V, over 2500 RPMs you should be at 14-14.5V.  Anything less if usually a sign of the alternator going bad, anything more is a sign that the regulator is bad as warned by the battery manufacture.  It's a simple fast easy test.

Scottie

[Superchuck]

Cool, thanks very much for the info- 

The smallest one they offer provides 6AH.  Would this theoretically be enough if I fix my solenoid, but am only using the E/S, one out of every 5 times I ride?

Also, I'm considering getting a few decorative LED's for added visibility while riding at night.  I know LED's use next to no power, but would this put a harmful strain on that 6 AH battery?

Thanks again,

Chuck

[High On Octane]

I running a 5BS AGM battery and brand new electrical.  I also installed some LEDs under the gas tank.  There's no strain on the electrical system at all.  In fact, even if the bike has been sitting for a few days, the battery always test near 13V.  But, honestly, I don't know if a size 6 will spin the starter or not.   

Scottie

[Superchuck]

Thanks for the info.  I did some more googling about the various batteries available.  There are also the Bikemaster TruGel batteries... fairly small but the apparently don't hold a candle to the AGM or Lithium varieties.  It looks like a good cheap solution is AGM, or potentially Gel, if some space saving is needed.  Then I'd just have to decide if I want to take a gamble on a $120+ lithium battery to really hide it away.  Glad I don't need to make this decision right away.

I'm going to be doing some mods to my bike as soon as the exhaust gets delivered... that will include airbox removal. I'd like to remove the stock battery as well, so I'll figure out which works best for my applications when I cross that road.

Thanks again for the help.  I've also heard Yuasa, Shorai, and Lightning Nano make great small batteries that really pack a punch, but they're REALLY pricey.  Not sure I wanna drop 200 bucks on a battery    Well, maybe 100.

Cheers,

Chuck

[High On Octane]

I running an Advance Auto Parts Autocraft battery.  No troubles here for an AGM battery for less than $50, but I'm also KS only.  Just looked at the Advance website and my 5L-BS is only rated at 50cca.  Looks like all the batteries under size 12 are less than 150cca.  Probably going to need to keep at least a size 15 if you plan on using the ES.

Scottie

[ERC]

The 6 amp will spin the starter but not for long.  ERC

[Superchuck]

Gotcha.  Thanks, yeah that's kind of what I was assuming after looking further into it.  If I decide to keep the bike kick only, the antigravity might be an option for me.  Might be better off getting a cheaper, and better, and still small alternative so I have the freedom to fix the E/S if it suits my fancy.

Thanks very much for the help all,

Chuck

[D the D]

You can get a reliable outboard motor starter solenoid for about $20 or less.  Several threads on that here.

[Superchuck]

Thanks, yeah I actually picked one up over a year ago... just haven't got around to doing it.  I've got an interview tomorrow for a new job, and after that it's Enfield Time!  Bust out the wrenches and let the magic happen.

I'm going to photodocument all my mods, and eventually upload the whole thing to the forum.  It'll be an ongoing project but I can't wait to get into it.

[Superchuck]

Home sick today so I haven't been out wrenching since tuesday.  On the other hand, I've had a ton of time to research batteries and the like.

After googling for about 3 hours, I think this is what I'm going to get:  http://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=YT4B-BS+AGM&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

It's basically a tiny dirt bike battery.  Some guys on a triumph forum say it works great for their older kick-only 650's.  This particular model is great because it's only 1.5 inches thick so i can tuck it up under the seat, and the best part, you can find it for $20 including shipping.  Added to that, it's an AGM battery so I can use my battery tender that I already have, and don't need to invest in a high tech charging system.
It's only 2.5 AH but heck, it's twenty bucks.

The only way I've found to get more amp hours out of a battery and still maintain the small size is to go Lithium.  The downside of that is they're massively more expensive, temperamental with charging systems, and really suck at cold weather starting.

Here's another Lithium option if people are considering the AntiGravity linked above:  http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/4cell.php

It's smaller in general, but not as thin in one dimension.  Still almost $100 bucks, but still only provides 2.5AH.  If I went lithium I think I'd go with the 4 cell AntiGravity in my initial post, which boasts 6AH for $120.

I'm going to order this tiny dirt bike battery, and it will probably work.  I'm going to be Kickstart-only for a while still, and if I ever decide to fix the E/S we'll see how long it works for.  Not too worried about adding the LED's either.  If it craps out in a few months, who cares?  it's twenty dollars.

Chuck