[Bankerdanny]

Let me tell you, since I decided to replace my kick start pawl I have learned quite a bit.

To whit:

1. The kick start pawl wasn't slipping, it was the clutch. A simple turn of the adjusting screw would have allowed the clutch to fully engage and the kick starter work just fine.

2.  When you reassemble the inner transmission cover, the washer the goes over the main shaft bearing goes flat side against the bearing. The washer has a lip on one side. Install it wrong and you wear a flat spot on the bearing (just discovered that today).

3.  Snidal is wrong, the correct sealed bearing to allow use of standard weight gear oil is 6303 NOT 6305. Per Freemont Industrial, the 05 bearing is 8 mm larger than the 03 (the number on the OEM bearing is 6303). This makes sense since when I did a quick test fit,  the 6305 bearing I ordered was way too big.

4.  The lock nut for the detente plunger goes OUTSIDE the inner transmission cover. This might seem obvious (and of course it is), but I did it wrong anyway and there is enough room on the inside of the cover to allow the nut to be on the inside.

[mrunderhill1975a]

Thanks for the information.  I will try to store your information somewhere.  Although, by the time I need the information, I will probably forgotten where I put it.

However, it sounds likle the moral of the story is Try the Simplest Thing First.

[Bankerdanny]

It didn't occur to me, and there was no mention in any FAQ's or tech tips I could find that would have suggested the clutch could be the problem.

Here's something new I learned:

The 6303 bearing is a very common size wheel bearing (Yamaha used it in many bikes), but none of the dealers I spoke to had it in stock. It is also a common bearing in automotive alternators.

Finally, when ordering the bearings there are two options: 2RS and ZZ. 2RS= 2 rubber seals, one each side. When installed the inside seal can be removed to allow the gear oil to lube the bearing. The ZZ has a metal seal on each side BUT it DOES NOT SEAL, so if you install a ZZ bearing the oil will leak out, so when you order get the 2RS.

[Bankerdanny]

Well, I confirmed yesterday that the correct bearing is 6303, not 6305 as stated in the Snidal manual.

I pulled the inner cover yesterday evening, discovered that I did not in fact put the locknut on the inside, installed the new bearing and put it back together.

It's amazing what a little experience can do. I had it apart and back together in about an hour versus 3 days the last time.

[Peter]

..
 The ZZ has a metal seal on each side BUT it DOES NOT SEAL, so if you install a ZZ bearing the oil will leak out,...

No it won't. At least mine doesn't. I got both and I took a chance in putting the ZZ (shielded bearing) in.
I just wasn't in the mood for a one sided sealed bearing and too curious about the ZZ.
Don't forget the vent hole though.

Peter


 

[Bankerdanny]

That's interesting to hear Peter, I will certainly yield to your experience.

I had read a comment on a different board where the person had a problem with the seal leaking (in a slightly different application though) and replaced it with the 2RS.

[Peter]

That's interesting to hear Peter, I will certainly yield to your experience.

I had read a comment on a different board where the person had a problem with the seal leaking (in a slightly different application though) and replaced it with the 2RS.

Well see if I'll be as happy with it as now once all the grease is washed out of the bearing.
I just figured that seals are supposed to keep grease inside a sealed bearing and shields are to keep crap out of a shielded bearing. A shield's job sounded more like what I wanted to achieve and it is made of METAL, and if the oil is not splashed right onto the balls it won't be pumped out. None of the two types will work well when pressure is involved.

I'll post if it starts leaking but so far so good at >2000 miles.

Peter

[clamp]

Yes you must remove any shielding from your balls.

    Your balls are kept from the dirt and you must never let your balls get grit or dirt on them,--this could be catastrophic.

       Plenty of oil on your balls is the way to go.

[PhilJ]

Is this where the term "Balls to the Wall" came from?

[Bankerdanny]

So, it's back together and I was out for a ride yesterday. It shifted well to begin with, very well in fact. But after an hour or so the shift lever wouldn't recenter.

Tomorrow I will double check to make sure that the shift mechanism is properly lubed.

On the odd side, sometimes when I hit the rear brake sometimes I get a grind out of the gearbox. not sure what to make of that.

On other fronts, I fixed my broken horn, there is some sort of break in the ground wire. I soldered in a jumper and installed a louder horn, all is good.

The last task will be to figure out why the electric start motor doesn't fire when I hit the started button.

The sealed bearing conversion seems to be working very well. I removed as much of the synthetic grease as possible and replaced it with synthetic 70-140 gear oil. The shifting is much quieter.

[Foggy_Auggie]

sometimes when I hit the rear brake sometimes I get a grind out of the gearbox. not sure what to make of that.

In all likelyhood this is rear brake chatter.  And it can be felt through the brake pedal and telegraphed around.

My rear brake does this in hot weather and only when it's going slow.  Such as hitting the pedal in stop and go traffic.

[Bankerdanny]

I think you're right.

I had it out for a couple hours this morning and a couple of miles from home the rear brake locked up. I must have had it adjusted to tight. After an hour of dragging it must have expanded enough to lock up.

I loosened the adjuster and it was fine.

Beyond that and the lever still not re-centering, it ran very well.

[bob bezin]

its good to hear your on the road again

[Bankerdanny]

I was very happy. About an hour Saturday and about 2 on Sunday.

I am planning to ride to my dad's in Dubuque next weekend. It's about 180 miles. I can stick to 2-lanes with no problem, so I expect it will take about 4-4 1/2 hours. I will ride back that night, so lots of saddle time for me.

Hopefully I did all my work correctly.

[geoffbaker]

Good luck with the test drive!

Got my detent nut today (the old one was stripped, and the detent partially stripped, but with careful filing the new nut now fits fine.)

I've got to add oil to the gearbox now, and then one more thing... install an engine.

Hopefully, I will be doing that no later than this weekend.

Question.. will the neutral light work if there is no oil in the gearbox? Just curious. Mine isn't working, don't know why.