The "green ended" one is the ECU check wire - ground it, turn on the key - get trouble codes. the other is the ALDL (Assembly Line Data Link) connector - this is where the ECU's programme is dumped into the bike on the line - and where the diagnostic tool interfaces with the ECU.
MIL BLINK CONTENTEngine will start but not perform to its potential. MIL will glow continuousLONG 0 SHORT 6 Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) circuit malfunctioningLONG 0 SHORT 9 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) circuit malfunctioningLONG 1 SHORT 1 Engine oil Temperature (TE) circuit malfunctioningLONG 1 SHORT 7 O2 Sensor circuit malfunctioningLONG 4 SHORT 5 O2 Sensor heater circuit malfunctioningEngine will NOT Start but will crank. MIL will glow continuousLONG 1 SHORT 5 Rollover Sensor circuit malfunctioningLONG 3 SHORT 3 Injector circuit malfunctioningLONG 3 SHORT 7 Ignition Coil circuit malfunctioningLONG 4 SHORT 1 Fuel Pump circuit malfunctioningLONG 6 SHORT 6 Crankshaft position circuit malfunctioning
Dan, I printed the codes on a card, laminated it and tucked it into the fuse box.
Most ECUs, cars and bikes, you just disconnect the battery for a good 15-20 minutes and that will usually reset the codes.Scottie
Not the case with the UCE. It stores the codes until they are erased with the Factory code scanner - which no one has. The ECU will display the codes set from last to first with no repeats. Also a code "41" is USUALLY a rotten ground in the system - NOT a bad injector. It's a pretty common code to come up .....
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