Author Topic: 4 speed inner cover removal  (Read 6144 times)

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Afro Samurai

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Reply #15 on: July 26, 2013, 09:54:14 pm
Cool....i got the case clean enough to eat out of...

Question is ..i can go one of two ways with this...remove engine abd trans together now...or completesealed bearing install with eng and trans still in the frame....

Do they have to be removed?..to complete this sealed bearing kit?...


Afro Samurai

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Reply #16 on: July 26, 2013, 09:57:19 pm
Empty case


Afro Samurai

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Reply #17 on: July 26, 2013, 10:16:51 pm
Better pic


Afro Samurai

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Reply #18 on: July 26, 2013, 10:19:05 pm
Old kick pawl is chipped...good thing I got a new one...


Arizoni

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Reply #19 on: July 26, 2013, 10:30:18 pm
If you have an electric drill and a very small drill bit you can keep the crack from continuing into the uncracked area by using the "stop drill" process.

You would need a drill bit that is about 2 mm or 5/64 inch in diameter up to maybe 3.5mm (.138 inch) max.
Carefully find the end of the crack and drill a hole thru the wall so the hole completely removes the crack and is cutting uncracked material.

Without doing this, cracks like this have exceedingly high stresses at the end so the crack will continue to grow in length.

Degreasing the area and filling the stop drilled hole with a slow hardening (extra strong)  epoxy can also be useful to keep the area from developing more cracks.

Don't do this if it means drilling thru the wall of the gearbox to the outside of the case.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2013, 10:32:29 pm by Arizoni »
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


Afro Samurai

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Reply #20 on: July 26, 2013, 11:00:23 pm
Thanks arizoni...the crack already goes into the radius out in towards the meat of the case...thin..but to get ahead of it..i would be drilling in the acreage...only got 1300 on the bike...never been into that I can tell...will just have to keep an eye on it...wont be racing...ha....


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #21 on: July 26, 2013, 11:14:56 pm
You should be able to fit the sealed bearing with the engine and gearbox attached to the frame,  You will just need a suitable size drift (like a 1.5 inch socket) to remove the drive side main bearing.

Reinstalling the bearing would require a drift that does not foul the gear operator selector lever shown in your photo.  I would recommend splashing boiling hot water on the case just prior to installing the frozen bearing you have strategically placed in a sandwich bag in the freezer.  Don't let the wife find it in the bearing in the freezer, that just leads to trouble.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2013, 11:26:20 pm by mrunderhill1975a »


Arizoni

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Reply #22 on: July 27, 2013, 01:46:16 am
As far as reinstalling things like bearings if one has something like a socket that is close to the same size as the outer race to use against the bearing, a pretty simple press can be made out of a length of threaded steel stock, a couple of hexagon nuts that is the same thread size and a short piece of 1/4 inch or thicker, flat steel bar.
The threaded stock should be as large as possible but still fit thru the square drive on the socket.

Drill a hole thru the short steel bar that clears the threaded rod.

To use this, place the flat steel bar on the far side of the bearing boss with the threaded rod and a nut thru it, the boss, the bearing and the socket.
Put the other hex nut on the threaded rod so it rests against the top of the socket.

Tightening the hex nut will force the bearing into the liner without pounding on it.

If a 3/8 inch threaded rod was used with 18 ft/lbs of torque on the nut a force of over 3000 pounds will be driving the bearing in place.

If a high quality threaded rod was used so the torque could be increased to 28 foot pounds and it was oiled, the pressure it would generate would be over 5900 pounds.
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


Afro Samurai

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Reply #23 on: August 24, 2013, 12:59:41 pm
Got the new bearings in the case...had to put more heat on it and use a threaded rod, washers, nuts and a big socket to fashon the press as suggested....all went together smooth...need about 4 hands to get gear set back in....

Few times I wondered how it ever came out..
Then I noticed I was missing the distance washer for the main shaft...so got it ordered ...finally installed it last night...got the shift mechanisms all in place and the cover buttoned up...

I worked through the gears manually...and the neutral finder.. All seems to work...but may be in for some adjustment nightmares ahead since I didnt mark the position of the shifter plate befor disassembling all that madness...not that it shifted all that great before anyway...

Next is just piecing all the left side primary stuff , clutch alt chains etc....and go for a test...

Got updated clutch springs..roller clutch throwout bearing ( cant remem proper name)...

will see how it all goes...i miss riding it....


Afro Samurai

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Reply #24 on: August 25, 2013, 01:51:16 am
Got primary case on...clutch basket in and all the clutches....

Question...the outer stop plate with the 3 bolts... that holds the springs..how far in should it be tightened?...i dont think the springs should be collapsed....left my manual at work...cant seem to find any info on it in my various pdf docs..i like paper ...


ERC

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Reply #25 on: August 25, 2013, 03:23:03 am
If your talking about the clutch the bolts holding it should be tightened all the way.  ERC
2-57 Apaches, 2-57 Trailblazers, 60 Chief, 65 Interceptor, 2004 Bullet, 612 Bullet chopped.


Afro Samurai

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Reply #26 on: August 28, 2013, 02:02:02 am
Yeah...something is goofed...its like all tye adjustment is out on my clutch...seems like when I tightened those bolts..there was no more travel in the springs...only thing I changed other than putting the sealed bearing kit was that I added that roller throwout bearing...I am begining to wonder if it is the proper length...or did that addition make the ball bearing obsolete?...

I will take some pics...and look again at that new part vs the old...I am on travel...will have updates fri eve or sat morning...hope to be riding over the holidays...all thats left after this adjustment is alt and topping off fluids...then the whole adjusting the clutch further and sorting any shifting issues I may have created....


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #27 on: August 28, 2013, 02:21:46 am
Go to the other side of the bike, open the small cover above the kick start shaft, you will see a lock nut on a slotted screw.  Loosen the lock nut and back the screw out a few turns, see if that gives you some play in clutch springs.  Report back here with results.


Afro Samurai

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Reply #28 on: August 31, 2013, 11:55:57 pm
Well it was an adjustment issue...got it all together...rides good...definitely shifts better...need to adjust shift lever location...

Noticed that in neutral...there is a slight buzz...my mind visualizes the kick sprag slightly rubbing the teeth tips...is that possible ?....

Also...my kick lever doesnt return to full up position unkess you do a complete kick through...cant remember if it was like that before...

Did a 50 mile ride..and overall I am quite surprised that by dumb luck the neutral fall into place perfectly...so I see no need to adjust that plate...goes through the gears perfectly...will see how long that remains the case

No more leaks other than the normal brit amount from primary cover...need to replace that big oring...


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #29 on: September 01, 2013, 02:31:34 am
The buzz in neutral is common, it is the kick start pawl clicking on each tooth of the gear. 

The kick lever needs to be adjusted so the spring brings it to the location you feel is most comfortable,