Author Topic: Decarbonization, piston upgrade, drill case for old style breather  (Read 11164 times)

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mattjohnson207

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The good news is I haven't broken a fin. One case stud is hidden by starter, got the nut off...might still be exerting clamping forces.   Tried a brass drift, chisel, screwdriver ,  no movement.
    In another forum two contributors questioned the wisdom of opening the cases of a perfectly good motorcycle.  The breather mod will have to wait, but the iron barrel decomp valve is definitely going in!
     2009 AVL , 8,175 miles.  98%. Short  8 mile trips in Phoenix , Az , winter and summer .
       Was experiencing  intermittant metallic sound fom the head, marbles Now suspect i should have used  better gas mid grade or premium ,Regular kickbacks,   with an occasional clang.  won't restart when hot. Very hard starting
         Want to inspect rings and do decarbonization .
           ...Matt in Glendale


ERC

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Are you sure you've taken the nut off at the bottom of cylinder on right side. If that's off the cylinder should come off.   ERC
2-57 Apaches, 2-57 Trailblazers, 60 Chief, 65 Interceptor, 2004 Bullet, 612 Bullet chopped.


mattjohnson207

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I loosened  three nuts just below the cylinder. The starter ,or front side has only one nut accessible , other side is blind.  The rear, both nuts are loose


ERC

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Try taking the studs out then you may be able to swivel the cylinder.  ERC
2-57 Apaches, 2-57 Trailblazers, 60 Chief, 65 Interceptor, 2004 Bullet, 612 Bullet chopped.


ace.cafe

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I would suspect that it is the gasket that is holding it down, by way of some gasket compound that they used, or just the gasket itself getting bonded to the castings from heat and time. I see this on the Iron Barrels too.

If you can't get it off using any other method, you can use a thin paint scraper and a mallet to drive the thin blade of the paint scraper into the gasket gap, thereby destroying the base gasket. Work it all the way around from all sides, and this loosens the grip of the gasket on the castings.
If it still won't let go, you can then use a thicker wedge in the gasket gap to wedge the cylinder up, by using a mallet to drive the wedge into the gap, at various places around the base, to move it up evenly. At some point, it gives up and you can get it off.
Just be sure that there are no bolts or studs remaining un-done, and it will come up with methods like this.
Home of the Fireball 535 !


ERC

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Ace is correct on the putty knife use, but the best one I found is the Snap On chisel edge heavy duty gasket scraper. You can really whack it with a hammer and it won't bend and if carefully placed on the gasket edge will cut into the gasket not harming the surfaces.  ERC
2-57 Apaches, 2-57 Trailblazers, 60 Chief, 65 Interceptor, 2004 Bullet, 612 Bullet chopped.


D the D

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Can't improve on those recommendations 'cause they're what I've done on various parts and bikes.  I usually use a stainless putty knife with a beveled edge.  If the cooked on gasket still won't break loose, try soaking overnight with a real penetrating oil like Kroil or Liquid Wrench.  PB Blaster if it's what you have.  That will usually soften the paper gasket and dissolve some of the hardened adhesive.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


High On Octane

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A good quality putty knife and hammer/dead blow will usually do the trick.  If it doesn't, resort to obscene profanity and beer and try again.  THAT will usually do the trick.    :D

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


D the D

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If you can't take it off without undo force, call Scottie and his drunken cussing should scare it loose!  ;D

Hey, I've been guilty of resorting to that myself.  Beer and cussing, not calling Scottie.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


mattjohnson207

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Paint scraper did the trick.  Crescent is about 1/16" deep. If that's not enough, is it a big deal to remove the piston?  Then I'll get out the grinder, make it a little deeper , if necessary?( sealing off the bottom end with some kind of silicone and whatever) and drill for the  brass breather elbow
        We'll worry about getting the correct amount of vacume  later. How hard can it be...
         However, this is my first rodeo, took an engine building class at the community
 College ten years ago;  any advice I can get I will be happy to get.....Matt


mattjohnson207

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The lines in the barrel are of course the front of the bike, only one line is visable to the naked eye, thought it was a scratch from pulling out the barrel, can't feel any roughness.
       The piston rocks from side to side about an eighth inch.       Matt


High On Octane

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An 1/8" of play on the wrist pin seems a bit excessive and worn IMO.  Maybe pull the clip and wirst pin and inspect for excessive wear on the pin itself and on the piston.  Look to see if there are any areas where metal has been worn off.  If there is you need to replace the piston, rings and wrist pin.  Also make sure you inspect the cylinders walls very well, and take a peak at the top of the piston rod while you're at it.

You already have it this far, make sure you give everything a very thorough inspection.  How many miles BTW?

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


mattjohnson207

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Got as a leftover, mostly 8 mile trips to work in Phoenix. At 45 mph; summer is hot, winter probably doesn't warm up. 8,175 miles.
       You're. Right...got it this far, might as well do it right
      Matt


mattjohnson207

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And there was that intermittent sound of marbles, hard starting, clanging kickbacks, which is why I'm here...
        Matt


High On Octane

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That marbles sound could very well have been that loose wrist pin.  It shouldn't have any play at all.

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King