[GA-DK]

Today I had a total electrical failure at a stop sign.  The middle fuse of the three  had blown.  This is a 2009 G5.  I think the three fuses could be swapped from place to place, and the two I have checked are both 20 amp.  Does anyone know the function of each fuse?  I thought I had found the problem when I discovered the rear wheel had rubbed insulation off the tail light wires, but that has been repaired and problem remains.  Too hot outside to work any more now.   GA-DK

[Ducati Scotty]

Not sure what each one is for but look for frayed wires and a short anywhere the wiring loom crosses metal.  When it cools off

Scott

[gashousegorilla]

Today I had a total electrical failure at a stop sign.  The middle fuse of the three  had blown.  This is a 2009 G5.  I think the three fuses could be swapped from place to place, and the two I have checked are both 20 amp.  Does anyone know the function of each fuse?  I thought I had found the problem when I discovered the rear wheel had rubbed insulation off the tail light wires, but that has been repaired and problem remains.  Too hot outside to work any more now.   GA-DK

   All three are 20A.... Main.... Charging/load..... and ignition/ EFI.  If you have NO power anywhere...nothing at all. You blew the main fuse.  Likely a good dead short to ground. How are the wires to the rear Brake Light? Was it involved in the rubbing ?

[barenekd]

The function of the fuses are to keep the motorbike from burning up!
Now, to the problem. If you have been working on the bike's electrics, that's the first place to look for a bare wire. Also around the cover for the battery has a few places that rubbing through the insulation is possible. But a possibility is that the fuse itself broke. Get some American ones, the Indian ones seem to be a bit fragile.
Good luck!
Bare

[Arizoni]

Bare beat me to it.

After you check out the wiring with a volt/ohm meter (and the ignition key off) you might find there is no short.  The fuse just blew.

This happened to my G5 so I replaced all of the fuses with new ones I got at the local auto supply store.  They are all 20A.
Since changing the fuses to some higher quality ones  I haven't had any problems.

[Ducati Scotty]

I forgot these were Indian quality fuses.

[GA-DK]

Found the problem.  Actually two problems.  The first one found did not blow fuse, but needed fixing.  I thought it was the one that blew fuse and that threw me off track.  The rear tire had rubbed through the insulation on several wires, but they were not shorting yet.  With that fixed, I found I still had a short.  Removed seat, headlight, and tank.  Connected 12-V lamp across the blown fuse and it would come on when ignition switch was on.  Removed the US headlight jumper to take the lights out of the circuit and the test lamp was still on with switch.  I would still have current through the test lamp going to fuel pump, relays, lamps at speedo, etc. that I could not take out of the circuit and I do not know how much current they were drawing but probably enough to light the test bulb.  Got new supply of 20-A fuses and tried a new one with the headlight jumper removed.  No short, reinstalled the jumper, no short, but the fuse blew when the headlight was reinstalled.  It took a lot of looking, but I finally used needlenose pliers to slightly spread the three terminals on the back of the 7-inch tribar headlamp.  That gave me power to the lights, but not to the starter.  Finally I put it in neutral and all is right with the world.  Don't forget neutral.  GA-DK

[gashousegorilla]

  Glad you got .  The ground pin was probably touching the low beam pin from how it sounds.... I replaced those individual push on connectors with one of these.... although it might be a little tight in there with a Tri-bar...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Dorman-9003-H4-bulb-high-temperature-headlight-socket/_/N-25v6?itemIdentifier=767899_0_0_

[sparklow]

 +1 gashousegorilla - You are absolutely right about this. I replaced the separate wire leads to the headlamp on my RE the first time I removed the headlamp. I had forgotten I did it. The use of separate leads to the lamp connector is another one of those " why in the world would they do that moments" with the RE.

[Rich Mintz]

Just to confirm: ordinary 20A automotive blade fuses are what I want, right? Like these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGFQ/

[Arizoni]

That's not the fuse my 2011 G5 uses but I think the G5 uses different fuse holders.  Mine uses the old fashioned glass tubes with the metal ends.

If your bike uses the plug in fuses you show in the link then, yes, the 20A fuse would be the right one for the main power supply.

[Rich Mintz]

Thanks. Yes, my bike uses plug-in blade fuses that look like that (and they're even yellow like the pictured ones), I just have no experience and wondered if they come in different sizes or dimensions. But it looks like these are right.

[gashousegorilla]

Just to confirm: ordinary 20A automotive blade fuses are what I want, right? Like these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BXOGFQ/

 No Rich, those are the Mini's..... My bike takes the larger ATC's.  Confirm that with another C-5 owner.

[Ducati Scotty]

The color usually indicates the amp rating.  My C5 uses all 20A standard size blade fuses, yellow.  Ride to an auto shop, take one inside with you, and you'll be back out riding in a few minutes.

Scott

[gmmechanic]

f.y.i.   a few years ago general motors published a tech service bulletin in reference to chinese fuses...testing had shown that they could blow without cause or not blow under a short condition...these fuses were and are being sold at autoparts everywhere in kits and should be avoided...