[cafeman]

Just thought I'd start a thread on how I fabricated a set of rear sets for my 2001 left shift 4-speed (us spec) Bullet. While there have been countless owners who have done something similar, I haven't been able to find any postings or info on doing this, other than those who have sourced the Hitchcock items, or just  basic references to having fitted rearsets of some sort, but still with no pictures or in depth info on specifics. It appears that one either has to spend well over $800 (USD) in order to convert the gearbox to right hand shift and also purchase the rearsets and perhaps even the sealed bearing kit while your at it. Then you have to tear the primary apart and the gearbox to fit the conversion kit as well as the bearing kit. Me being a cheapskate, as well as a tinkerer and an improviser, figured I could certainly cobble something together to reach the same results, and save a bunch of money. Turns out what I came up with cost not even a third of what the typical route would cost. Granted, I spent a lot of time figuring and re-doing some things to get it just right, but in the end I have rearsets and I didn't have to tear apart much at all. And, it works. The total cost for the parts was around $240 (I did spend a little more on various hardware that did'nt pan out) There was some basic fabricating of shift arms and welding of tabs etc, but overall it was pretty easy. What follows are step by step picturesand brief explanations  of what was entailed.   

[cafeman]

Picture #1 shows the removal of the brake shaft and the washer ground off. (Pegs, mounts levers, etc have all been removed at this point)
Picture #2 shows linkage of the shifter arm (that attaches to the shift cross- shaft) and a fabricated arm that will be press fit onto the brake shaft. I used a 9/16" collar and welded a tab on it. A hole was drilled on the shift arm  to mount the heim joint. I intend on drilling a few more so there is some adjustability in how fast the it pivots the shift shaft.
Picture #3 shows the fabricated arm pressed on the brake shaft. I froze the shaft, and torched the arm, and just drifted it into position. It also has a set screw.
Picture #4 show how the shift shaft arm is installed. You just flip it and install it so it lies 90 degrees to the brake and shift shaft centerline. There is plenty of chain clearance as you can see.

[cafeman]

The following 2 pictures show the swapping of the brake shaft bushings. I am holding the bushing that goes into the bore shown.
The third picture shows the brake shaft re-installed, splines on the right side instead of the left side of bike, connected to the shift shaft (re-using the retaining washer and a new cotter pin.
The last picture shows a new washer welded on the end of the bore, and grease fitting re-installed. Same as it was before, just reversed.

[cafeman]

The first picture shows the clearance of the reversed shift shaft arm.
The second picture shows my fabricated shifter arm for the rearset heim joint linkage to connect to. I ended up cutting the original shift lever and bashing it straight, then using a grinder to shape it. A motorcycle junkyard would be the best source for scrounging up an arm that would work......You can also see the big tapered bushing for mounting the rearset assembly (this is the original passenger peg mount with the arm cut off)
The third picture shows the rearsets installed. I used the tapered passenger peg mounts (cut and ground off the arms) and sourced longer mounting bolts for the rearsets. The heim joints are 5/16" male heims and the connecting tube is the handle from an old exacto knife that I drilled and tapped.
The fourth picture shows the brake install. I used a 5/16" female heim joint on a cut and threaded original  brake rod, reuse of the brake light components (bend at about a 45 degree angle so it pulls the hook/spring in a straight line) I fabricated a small piece of steel and mounted it to the existing brake stop mount.

[cafeman]

The rearsets I used (Old School Speed) came with swivel links and threaded rod. They are nice quality, perhaps not as heavy duty as I would have liked, but a pretty complete kit. I could have just used all the hardware included, but I wanted true heim joints and a polished aluminum link tube vs a threaded rod for the linkage so.........

I sourced 3 heims, 3 stainless allen bolts, 3 stop nuts, 3 long bolts, and 2 heavy thick washers for mounting the rearsets and connecting it all (along with that sacrificial exacto knife)
 Then there is a 9/16" collar, a 1/4-20 female and male heim joints for the shaft connections (I re-used the original shifter linkage bolts to bolt it all together), a cotter pin, and a washer to complete the brake shaft and shift shaft connection.

2 small welding operations (the brake rod arm and the washer on the frame shaft mount bore)
Some simple bending and hacksawing (the brake stop and light actuator, the brake arm piece, and some bashing with a hammer and viola!  Right side shift rearsets for about $250 and a little bit of work....and no opening of the gearbox.
 Just one mans way of winging it, certainly not the only way, or the best, but it's here for anyone who wonders what it might take to do something similar.

[ace.cafe]

Nice!

[Blltrdr]

Maybe you can list the part #'s used from this pdf catalog.

http://www.rbcbearings.com/literature/pdfs/Heim.pdf

[cafeman]

 That catalog looks to have everything and anything as far as heims go: low budget up to the best available. I used Hillman brand heims, they're available at Ace Hardware, and True Value stores, some don't carry them, just depends on the store. They were in the slide out bins in baggies next to all the fasteners. Some have them next to the mower service counter also. 
They are labeled as "Rod Ends"
 For the shaft connection: I used (1) 1/4-28 male rod end and  (1) 1/4-28 female rod end.  The shifter linkage I used (2) 5/16-24 male rod ends, and for the brake (1) 5/16-24 female rod end. These are the sizes the rearsets were drilled for. The little collar for the brake shaft is a: Shaft Collar- 9/16"id x 1"od     

[AgentX]

Great write-up; as I've never used a left-shift bike, I am a little behind the power curve.  Am assuming that what you did was essentially remove the majority of the left-shift linkage and tie in the right-side rearset to what remained of this linkage on the right side?  Then tie the left-side rearset into the existing left-side brake?  Correct?


Midwest control products also has a great online catalog for this stuff, and McMaster as well (as always).

Personally, I'm looking at a way to re-mount my rearsets using something other than the passenger peg boss.  (Currently, they're using a set of chopped-up passenger peg mounts and supports that hold the rearsets an inch or so forward of the boss.) I need them more mid-set for my use; I'm going more street-tracker than cafe.

Might try to use some Tarozzi mounting plates for another bike model bolted to the bike with the addition of some more weld-on bosses.

[cafeman]

Agent, Yes I removed everything. All that remained was the shift shaft coming out of the gearbox. Basically flipped the brake shaft so the splines are on the right side, then connected the rearsets. Had to cut down a threaded rod to replace the the long threaded hexagon shaft that the rider pegs originally attached to. (forgot about mentioning that as a needed item)

I have pretty long legs and with the pegs mounted where they are puts my feet directly under my arse, and in line with my spine (from what I've read this is a good posture for riding in a sport oriented way) It's been awhile since I've had my legs that far back, and after a hundred mile ride over the weekend I had some issues with my left knee so I'll have to exercise it more. More forward pegs might be a better bet, but I'll get used to how they are