Author Topic: Which drive chain to buy ?  (Read 3979 times)

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REpozer

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on: June 15, 2013, 07:03:27 am
My AVL has stock sprockets.

What do you recommend for my next drive chain purchase?
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REpozer

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Reply #1 on: June 16, 2013, 01:03:47 am
I'm looking at a DiD 530, with 100 links.
My original has 95 links.

Should I cut off five links,....does it matter?
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Arizoni

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Reply #2 on: June 16, 2013, 02:36:42 am
IMO, 5 links of extra chain is too much.
You probably won't be able to adjust the rear wheel far enough back to get the chain adjusted properly.

My 2011 G5 (Electra) is supposed to use a 530 chain with 101 links.
I installed a chain with 102 links and although I was able to adjust the rear wheel to get the chain tension set correctly it did move my snail's almost to the limit of their adjustment.
Jim
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REpozer

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Reply #3 on: June 16, 2013, 03:04:27 am
Thanks Arizoni,
I'll purchase a chain link breaker tool.
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The_Rigger

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Reply #4 on: June 16, 2013, 08:49:15 pm
I'll purchase a chain link breaker tool.

Bike Bandit had the Motion Pro PBR Chain Tool on sale last month... It might still be.

I bought one.
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Ice

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Reply #5 on: July 25, 2013, 06:51:12 am
D.I.D. and RK are two of my faves.
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REpozer

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Reply #6 on: July 25, 2013, 07:09:05 am
I purchase a DID 530 -100 roller chain.
 Metal was thinker then the Indian made "Diamond" brand.

I needed 95 links, but went with 96 links.

 Used a pneumatic powered (air tool) cutting wheel ( whiz wheel) to grind a chain pin down, then a hammer and punch to drive the pin out for 96 links left.

All links on my old Diamond chain were working. I think much of other peoples complaints is from lack of regular chain lube and sitting outside to rust.
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GreenMachine

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Reply #7 on: July 25, 2013, 02:35:35 pm
All links on my old Diamond chain were working. I think much of other peoples complaints is from lack of regular chain lube and sitting outside to rust.

Yeah well, I have a diamond chain that had 10k on it and its hanging on a nail in the garage...I didn't noticed anything wrong with it but I recently changed it out with another diamond chain from our sponsor...I didn't notice any noticeable wear on the sprocket and I think I only adjusted the chain 3x over the 10k mileage...I'm not out their running it hard so maybe that's the reason...It maybe due to the fact its only has a 23-27 hp engine in it... ;D
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D the D

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Reply #8 on: July 25, 2013, 03:54:29 pm
You don't need a chain breaker if you have a Dremel tool or grinder.  Just cut the head of the pin where you want to shorten and drive it out with a punch.
I cut 4 links out of the Tsubaki I'm running now.  You'll be hard pressed to find a chain exactly the length you want.
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High On Octane

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Reply #9 on: July 25, 2013, 04:11:37 pm
You don't need a chain breaker if you have a Dremel tool or grinder.  Just cut the head of the pin where you want to shorten and drive it out with a punch.
I cut 4 links out of the Tsubaki I'm running now.  You'll be hard pressed to find a chain exactly the length you want.

+1   I've never seen a chain that was an "exact fit".  I had to trim down my Tsubaki too.

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


barenekd

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Reply #10 on: July 25, 2013, 05:40:19 pm
If you are going for an odd number link count, you need a half link. They can be hard to find for some chains. Diamond non-Oring chains should have them available, though.
I don't know who makes the OEM chain for Enfield, but those are junk. The inner bushings will break up and let everything just kinda hang loose! The thing to look for is how far the chain will curve across the pins. If you lay it on the ground and see how much you can get of it. Should be very little. A shot one looks like the picture below. they should only have maybe a 6" curve if they are good. On the bike, pull up on a link on the sprocket. If it comes up more than a half tooth, it is shot!
Bare
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ERC

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Reply #11 on: July 25, 2013, 11:04:35 pm
Bare is correct you will need a half link to get the size right. I believe Hitchcocks has better quality chains that will work, CMW may have them also. If you have 95 original and try to go with an even amount it won't adjust properly.  ERC
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Techmaven

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Reply #12 on: July 26, 2013, 11:53:56 am
Excellent thread! Gonna check my chain today..Has anyone here altered the gearing on their bike? I wouldn't mind going a bit taller with mine.


GreenMachine

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Reply #13 on: July 26, 2013, 03:38:23 pm
Bare: I don't know who makes the OEM chain for Enfield, but those are junk..

The OEM chain I took off has "Diamond India " stamped on it...I seriously doubt it's affiliated with the Diamond USA manufacturer  ...Since I have the old used 10k chain just hanging..I'll try out your idea and compare it to the pic u provided..I'm glad my Yamaha is shaft drive..GM
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barenekd

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Reply #14 on: July 26, 2013, 07:20:19 pm
Some of the guys use diamond america chains and seem to like them. I may have sued diamond chains in the '60s on dirt bikes, but who really knows how long they last. The prices are pretty good. I had a Tsubaki Oring chain on my Enfield and didn't even have to adjust it until about 10,000 miles! And that wasn't much of an adjustment. I had the wheel off for a tire change s figured I'd just go through the rear while it was apart.

Quote
Gonna check my chain today..Has anyone here altered the gearing on their bike?

A lot of people have gone up one tooth on the countershaft sprocket. It's a necessity if you want to put a Oring chain on a G5 or B5. With the 17T sprocket, the wider chain will hit the bearing boss. The only other real advantage is a little lower rpm at a given speed. It'll cruise at 70 easier. However expect a slight decrease in performance, acceleration and top speed. There just isn't enough horsepower available to take advantage of the higher gearing. But it's not that big a handicap, there is more than adequate to ride in traffic situations and such. Of course, all this is irrelevant as applied to an AVL! Except the power part.
Bare
« Last Edit: July 26, 2013, 07:24:13 pm by barenekd »
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