[jammydodger]

Hi,
This may be a very novice question for most of you seasoned bullet owners. However,  what's the general consensus on using non 15w50 oil in these machines?

 Can only get 10w40 and was wondering if this would run ok in the uce engines? I'm based in the UK so temperatures rarely gets above 25 degrees c if that has any bearing?

Thanks in advance.

Jamie

[2bikebill]

10w-40w is fine.
15w-50w is fine.
Both widely available in UK
It's not critical. UK climate doesn't go to either extreme (yet...).

[gremlin]

The transmission will chew 10W40 up faster.  better plan on changing oil more often.

[jammydodger]

Hmmm tough one. I guess I should go with 15/50 if it means that 10/40 soils more easily.

[singhg5]

My opinion, based on testing both 10W40 and 15W-50 oils, is that the engine starts easier in the winter with lighter oil 10W-40. It is tempting to use if temperature is always below 60F (15C). BUT as the temperature rises the thinner oil does not provide as much protection to long stroke engine.

I personally would stick to 15W-50 for my G5 for all ridings seasons. This includes spring, summer, autum, winter upto freezing temperatures (not below 0C) and protect the engine for longer life.

[jammydodger]

Cheers singhg5. I've been watching your oil change video too, and preparing for some maintenance fun this weekend. Just need to source the oil now, the main maintenance shops don't stock it and all the 'bike' workshops around me are scooter focused!

[2bikebill]

My RE handbook recommends 15-50, and generally I use that.
My W650 manual recommends  10-40, and generally I use that.
From time to time I have used whatever happens to be in the shed for either bike - this means that both get some of each. Sometimes I've mixed them when I haven't had enough of one or the other.
I was a bit obsessive about each getting the "proper" oil at first, but then I spoke to the man from Silkolene, who put me straight.
I don't ride either bike like an old lady, but I don't hammer the crap out of them either. I change oil every 2000 miles. Modern synth or semi-synth oils will take good care of your engine over a very wide range of conditions - well beyond anything the benign UK climate will throw at it.
10-40 recommended if operating between minus 10 degrees and plus 40 degrees C (104F)
15-50 recommended between minus 5 degrees and plus 50 !
Slight differences in viscosity affect the busy mind more than they affect moving metal parts....  

Try shopping around online for good oil deals.
Opie & DK sometimes have good deals. I recently got 4 litres of Silkolene via ebay cheaper inc delivery than I could buy it locally..

[jammydodger]

One last question...

Synth
Semi-Synth
Or mineral?

[gremlin]

Mineral
go get you some oil for diesel motors.

[2bikebill]

I use Silkolene Comp4, which is semi synth. I've also used fully synth. Some say fully synth is bad for the clutch. It isn't.  A lot of folk here like it and claim it gives smoother gear shifts. I didn't find any real difference so went back to semi to save a few bob. Either will be suitable. Why not start out with the recommended semi and switch for a while later to see if you notice any difference (other than in your pocket... ).

[singhg5]

I use Silkolene Comp4, which is semi synth. I've also used fully synth. Some say fully synth is bad for the clutch. It isn't.  A lot of folk here like it and claim it gives smoother gear shifts. I didn't find any real difference so went back to semi to save a few bob. Either will be suitable. Why not start out with the recommended semi and switch for a while later to see if you notice any difference (other than in your pocket... ).

+1

[Vince]

     A multi-viscosity oil generally uses the low # as its base. A 10W40 would use a 10W base with an additive package to give it the flow characteristics of a 40W at 100 degrees centigrade. Use 10W40 anytime you don't think you will need the extra viscosity. Another consideration it the additive package. Cycle transmissions are in an oil bath. There is no oil pressure. A motorcycle specific oil has additives (hypoid/heavy metal) to cushion the gears in this condition, and to treat the clutch. A unit construction engine needs these additives to maximize performance and life. These same additives are beneficial in any loose tolerance engine such as the earlier Enfields.

[barenekd]

Ah, yes, yet another oil thread! For those newbies, oil, air cleaners, and tire threads run rampant about twice a year on motorcycle forums.
Here's the deal on oil, check out the owners manual first. That will tell you, at least, what won't hurt your engine. Use at least that level of oil, mineral, semi-synthetic, or synthetic. Any decent brand name will do the job for you and your motor.
However, use MOTORCYCLE oils. Modern motor car oils will kill your bearings and clutches. Synthetic motorcycle oils will not! I use Mobil 1 V-Twin synthetic in my bikes. Not a problem in thousands of miles because of oil.
For old timers, use what you believe in, even Shell Rotella diesel or airplane oil. It's not going to hurt your engine either. Dino oil isn't mentioned in the owners manual. I wouldn't use it for a variety of reasons unless you are very oil knowledgable. Experimenting down with oils ain't worth it. Good Oil costs about $20 every 3600 miles. Pretty cheap insurance.
Bare

[gremlin]

be careful with AERO oil.  Lycoming spec synthetic has virtually no additives.   It is an attractive clear color !

[Arizoni]

And other AERO oils made for gas turbines are totally useless in a reciprocal engine.