Author Topic: AVL Electra stalling  (Read 6430 times)

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Techmaven

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on: June 04, 2013, 11:16:10 pm
As I'm approaching a light or stop sign, I downshift and just before coming to a stop, the bike loses power (engine) and, if I pop the clutch, it usually re-fires. One time I had to use the e-start with the lights off to get her to fire. Could it be the side stand switch? Or ???


REpozer

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Reply #1 on: June 04, 2013, 11:31:15 pm
I unplugged my side stand switch by unplugging it from my green( if yours is black, call for the green one) TCI box under the seat.
I have had some "engine stumbling" and stalling from the intake rubber boots, not being on properly( vacuum leak) . That's also the main reason to remove the PAV ..a couple a feet of vacuum lines.
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Arizoni

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Reply #2 on: June 04, 2013, 11:34:26 pm
That's one possibility you could eliminate if you want to risk not having that safety feature.
They have caused a number of problems on the UCE powered bikes.

On the UCE bikes, disconnecting the small plastic electrical connector where the switch plugs into the main harness disables it.
Jim
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DanB

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Reply #3 on: June 04, 2013, 11:36:30 pm
Could e, but if it fires up again easily, then maybe not. Check for vacuum leaks is a good point. And definitely get the green tdi box if you don't have it.

I'd try to increase your idle a bit. Sounds like you maybe running a little rich as you come off the throttle, so increase the idle and adjust the mixture screw clockwise a quarter turn (leaning it a smig) and see if that further increases the idle. If yes, then adjust idle to where u want (~1000 rpm) and check again. Make sure things are nice a warm.
Suppose I were an idiot, and suppose I were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself. ... Mark Twain
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ace.cafe

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Reply #4 on: June 05, 2013, 12:45:58 am
Very often, the cause of stalling at stoplights is that the carb needs tuning when warm.
If the carb is tuned before the bike is fully warmed-up, then it gets too rich when it's hot, and then it stalls out when you try to come to a stop. It is common that the problem is cured simply by doing a proper carb tuning procedure after the bike is nice and hot. A typical side effect of this cure is that the bike will then definitely need the choke lever to start when cold, which is the way it should be anyway.

This is extremely common to see on the Iron Barrel models.

« Last Edit: June 05, 2013, 12:48:11 am by ace.cafe »
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Techmaven

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Reply #5 on: June 05, 2013, 10:01:06 pm
Thanks for all the input..I'll be checking out the vacuum lines and trying DanB's carb tip. The bike really doesn't need choke all that much in the morning and the prev owner said the dealer jetted the bike before he took it home...Hmm..


Techmaven

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Reply #6 on: June 10, 2013, 02:56:36 am
Unplugging the green side stand switch wire has eliminated the stalling issue. I had a really enjoyable ride after dinner this evening.


Techmaven

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Reply #7 on: June 12, 2013, 07:57:02 pm
Still stalling but only when coming up to a red light/stop sign. Restarts right away and never misses a beat when moving. Sometimes has a hesitation when trying to take off from a stop. Turning in the carb screw all the way causes a slight drop in idle speed. Carb cleaner around carb/intake makes no difference. Gonna go spray around the vac lines of the PAV.


DanB

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Reply #8 on: June 12, 2013, 11:54:51 pm
I think your running slightly rich. If you have leaks you'd be running leaning. But do check anyway.

For the mixture screw, turn it just a 1/4 at a time and listen to the idle. I like to find where it first starts to drop, then turn it back out by an 1/8 or so. Remember, clockwise lean, counter clockwise rich for the stock cv carb.

The bike must be warmed up to find the right tuning. Ride for 10 to 20 minutes. Adjust. Then go fr a test ride. If needed increase the idle with the idle screw.
Suppose I were an idiot, and suppose I were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself. ... Mark Twain
2006 AVL Electra


Techmaven

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Reply #9 on: June 13, 2013, 12:26:20 am
Dan, the mixture screw is the one on the left side of the bike (side stand) in the lower front corner? It's the only adjustment I see aside from the idle knob and bowl drain. That screw has a minimal effect on idle..all the way in, it should stall I would think, but doesn't. turning between 1 and 3 turns has no noticeable change in idle speed. I'm gonna take the screw out tomorrow and spray some 2+2 in the hole..maybe a blockage. ??


DanB

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Reply #10 on: June 13, 2013, 01:58:10 am
Yep, thats the one.  It wont stall the bike if you turn it all the way in.  But it will run starved at idle & hot.  This screw adjusts the pilot mixture... so it affects: starting, idle, going on to the throttle 0 to 1/4 or so (overlaps with the needle) and coming off the throttle.. hence it stalls when you come to a stop (closed throttle bog).  At least this is what i think.  Ace outlined the condition above.  Ive attached more details below on the carb and its function.

So, I'd start back with the screw in the original position (did you remember that?  2 to 3 turns out from full stop if on stock pilot jet).  Warm up the bike, and screw it in say 1/4 to a 1/2... leaning out the circuit.  Then do test ride to see if it still stalls.  You shouldn't hear any pinging or popping in the exhaust (indicating too lean or an exhaust leak).  Also, may want to try bringing up the idle a bit.  I find my electra likes a slightly faster tickover.  If done right, you wont stall, and should need the choke at startup.

Theres lots of information on this forum on tuning carbs; specifically in the AVL section.  Have a search.

Hope this helps and let us know if this works.




Suppose I were an idiot, and suppose I were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself. ... Mark Twain
2006 AVL Electra


High On Octane

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Reply #11 on: June 13, 2013, 03:30:58 pm
I think your running slightly rich. If you have leaks you'd be running leaning. But do check anyway.

For the mixture screw, turn it just a 1/4 at a time and listen to the idle. I like to find where it first starts to drop, then turn it back out by an 1/8 or so. Remember, clockwise lean, counter clockwise rich for the stock cv carb.

The bike must be warmed up to find the right tuning. Ride for 10 to 20 minutes. Adjust. Then go fr a test ride. If needed increase the idle with the idle screw.

DanB is right.  The bike must be at operating temperature and you don't want to move the air screw more than a 1/4 turn at a time.  The best way to get where you need to be on MOST carbs is to turn in the air screw until the bike starts to puke out, then screw it back out a 1/4 to 1/2 turn.  (According to DanB this may be backwards for the stock carb? ??? ) After every adjustment, blip the throttle at about 1/3 throttle turns.  Basically pull a 1/3 throttle and let go.  Do this a few times after each adjustment from idle.  When the bike STOPS stumbling upon initial opening of the throttle, that's where you need to be.  If it requires you to turn out the air screw more than 2 1/2 turns OR have it all the way closed, you need to look at different jets and needle positions.  This is a sure fire way to correct problems from idle to 1/4 throttle.  It's worked for me on my dirt bikes for years.

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


DanB

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Reply #12 on: June 14, 2013, 02:39:50 am
Thanks Scottie. Just FYI, the cv carb doesn't have an air screw, it's a mixture/volume screw. Turning in or clockwise leans it; turning out enriches the circuit. These screws have lots of room for turning out. Ive read folks have gone as far as 6 complete turns when they have gone to a freer flowing intake and exhaust.

I ended up use one size larger pilot, 17.5, for this very reason and it likes a smig more than 1/2 a turn out.
Suppose I were an idiot, and suppose I were a member of Congress; but I repeat myself. ... Mark Twain
2006 AVL Electra


Techmaven

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Reply #13 on: June 16, 2013, 06:33:59 pm
I determined that the stalling is still an electrical issue..it lost power at a steady 55 on the highway like I had hit the run/stop switch. Had 4 separate stalling incidents at stop signs/lights this morning also. On a side note, a Suzuki TU250 with a rider outweighing me, is (slightly)faster in a sprint than the AVL Electra.


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Reply #14 on: June 16, 2013, 08:00:12 pm
The stock Airfilter, exhaust and Carb doesn't do justice to the Electra X. Maybe by changing these 3 parts you'll get some decent crisp and some more hike in HP. These same electras do 145kph~150kph true speeds on GPS with the mentioned mods. With a 19T front sprocket, maybe 5kms more? or so..