Author Topic: Oil change interval?  (Read 6442 times)

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Rich Mintz

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on: June 04, 2013, 09:16:51 pm
I had my oil professionally changed at 600 mi.  Mechanic said next due at 2500.  Now at 3300. What kind of damage risk do I run by exceeding the interval?

I don't really like my dealer (they only sorta deal in enfields) and might do it myself, but realistically that would mean 10 more days and another 200 mi or whatever, since it's my first time and I'd need to get everything. 
Rich Mintz - New York City
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REpozer

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Reply #1 on: June 04, 2013, 09:32:14 pm
You can do it Rich !
I recommend you purchase the filter and oil, check to see that you have the right size spanners(wrenches), rags, oil pan..etc.
Read your RE hand book, and...I think someone has a UCE oil change on youtube.

From then on, you can DIY (do it yourself) ...forever.

Enjoy!
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Bulletman

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Reply #2 on: June 04, 2013, 09:37:12 pm
Rich,
The oil change is easy and uncomplicated, even me being a novice enjoyed doing it. I did my first oil change at 600 miles. Take a look at "singh5g" videos on YouTube, he has done a beautiful job in documenting how its done...I personally don't have a problem going over a few 100 miles before the oil change..also your next oil change should be at 3750 miles not 3300 miles so you should be ok. Mind you this is on the Maintenance workout sheet on the manual as well..
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Ekatus Atimoss

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Reply #3 on: June 04, 2013, 09:38:34 pm
Hi Rich,
I'm also planning to do the next oil change myself. Earlier than required by the oil change interval. To be on the safe side, I'd not risk to exceed the interval. It's also the first time for me, but singhG5's video on the subject looks excellent and the stuff you might need to get is not that many and surely available via mail order.
- wrenches (the video says 19mm and 8mm)
- oil filter kit with gaskets (e.g. via HMC)
- 2,5l 15W50 semi-synth (I'll get MOTUL 5100)
- waste oil box for motor bikes (there's for sure a different word for this in English) you put underneath the bike when draining.

The video as mentioned by Bulletman: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uo0IW8JVS_I

kind regards
Michael
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Bulletman

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Reply #4 on: June 04, 2013, 09:42:35 pm
Rich,
Here is the link to the youtube video.. Have fun.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uo0IW8JVS_I&list=UUOh4rORdLrqjVZUsorI0hKA&index=35
Mark
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Arizoni

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Reply #5 on: June 04, 2013, 11:05:22 pm
Rich:
Probably your biggest problem will be getting the oil filter.
You'll have to get it on line or from Nfieldgear.  It's the one that looks like a little metal can with hundreds of holes thru the wall, not the one that looks like a wad of cotton.

You will only need to buy 2 quarts of oil and it's doubtful if you will need all of it.  About 1 7/8 quarts will bring the oil level up to the middle of the sight glass.

When you put the oil filter cap back on, lightly lubricate the little O-Ring in the groove on the cap.  If your careful about getting it to compress into the bore it will not be damaged.
Jim
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Gypsyjon

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Reply #6 on: June 05, 2013, 01:28:17 am
NField gear sells kits with the stuff for 5 oil changes. Very easy.


Arizoni

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Reply #7 on: June 05, 2013, 01:45:34 am
NField gear sells kits with the stuff for 5 oil changes. Very easy.
If you keep your fingers crossed before you call them.

Otherwise, it will be on back order like the 10,000 mile seal/oil pump gear kit is. :(
Jim
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1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


mattsz

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Reply #8 on: June 05, 2013, 02:08:58 am
Not sure about the oil change miles - my manual says change the oil at 300, 3750, 7500, 11250, etc. - every other service interval listed.  I recall discussion about whether that was a misprint.  I'll let somebody more experienced opine whether you're in trouble or not.

But I will say that changing the oil is dirt easy; based on what you've told us about what you've done with your bike so far, you will easily be able to do it.  If you can't get a filter in a hurry, PM me - I've got most of a 5-change kit on the shelf and I can front you the filter and gaskets you need...


wildbill

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Reply #9 on: June 05, 2013, 02:22:43 am
doing the oil change is pretty easy - be very careful when you tighten up the plugs to correct tightness/torque.
pay attention - especially the two smaller ones with the removable small metal filter forward of the main plug. you can easily snap or cross thread these.
so to sum up
1. main sump plug
2. small filter in front of this unit. clean and replace.
3. oil filter on right side of motor.
4. on my 2012 c5 - one right below the front engine frame mount.


Bulletman

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Reply #10 on: June 05, 2013, 03:42:48 am
Ok. Here is a periodic maintenance Chart
« Last Edit: June 08, 2013, 07:00:13 am by Bulletman »
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Arizoni

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Reply #11 on: June 05, 2013, 05:32:46 am
Speaking of torque, the big should be torqued to 15 ft/lbs.
If you are using a torque wrench that amount of torque will seem like it is not enough but it does the job just fine and it won't strip out the threads in the aluminum engine case.

The little hex bolts that hold the oil filter cap and the oil pickup screen should be tightened to 4 ft/lbs.  When your turning the wrench that will seem like almost nothing but it also works fine and it won't twist off the bolts shanks or strip the aluminum.
Jim
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keithr

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Reply #12 on: June 05, 2013, 02:30:59 pm
singh5g's video shows the small o-ring on the stud in the wrong position.  It should go between the washer and the brass plate.  I found it very difficult to install it correctly and decided to buy the newer oil filter cap from Hitchcocks Motorcycles (see bottom of page 37 of the 2013 Catalogue Online at www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com).  To quote the description, "On early EFI engines, the oil filter cap and associated parts are all separate and a real struggle to assemble when fitting to the engine.  This is the later set up which is screwed together so makes changing/cleaning the oil filter a much more simple task" (or to use better English, "a much simpler task" - and it was much simpler, so a worthwhile upgrade I think).


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Reply #13 on: June 05, 2013, 05:18:10 pm
Rich,
For what the dealers and NFG charge for the o-rings (my dealer wanted $2.60 each!), a simpler/cheaper solution is to go to Harbor Freight and get their O-Ring Kit.
http://www.harborfreight.com/397-piece-metric-o-ring-assortment-67580.html
Then all you need is the filters.
The crush washer under the mag plug is available at any decent hardware store.
I bought 2 filters from the dealer at $13 each, but everything else from HF and Home Depot.
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barenekd

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Reply #14 on: June 05, 2013, 06:51:33 pm
The oil changing schedule isn't that critical. If you gap one out to 4000 miles, it ain't gonna blow up on ya! Neither is doing it too early going to hurt it. Some guys still waste their money on 2000 mile oil changes. Real old school thinking!
Do soak the filter in oil before installation. It brings the oil pressure up faster.
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