Author Topic: Hagon install  (Read 3122 times)

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sethne

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on: June 04, 2013, 07:39:00 pm
Hey guys

I just got my hagons from Dave quinn and am looking to install them as soon as I have a chance.  I ended up getting 310mm to lower the bike the tiniest bit.  What will actually be involved in the install?  Will it just be putting the bike on the center stand, taking off the old shocks and installing the new ones or is there extra work like adjusting the chain, or jacking up the bike to make up for the height difference.  Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #1 on: June 04, 2013, 08:43:48 pm
C5, B5, or G5?


sethne

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Reply #2 on: June 04, 2013, 09:45:15 pm
C5


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #3 on: June 04, 2013, 09:53:46 pm
You should be able to do this with the bike on the center stand.  You'll probably need to remove both shocks at the same time.  Since the new ones are shorter you won't be able to swap them one at a time because things won't line up. 

The bottom is straight forward, remove and re-install.  BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!  Two members who are both sensible and capable mechanics both broke one of the bottom studs off recently while putting on new shocks. 

For the top, you need to get the fender out of the way so you can slide the top bolt out.  Loosen the top mountin bolts on the fender struts and remove the lower ones.  You should be able to pivot the fender up and out of the way.  Once it pivots up, just remove the nut and slide the bolt out toward the wheel.

Remember to note which washers get used where and put them back the same way.

Scott


D the D

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Reply #4 on: June 05, 2013, 05:36:43 am
I just did this a couple of weeks ago and Scotty has the directions down.  The fender is kind of a pain, but the top bolts come out towards the fender and it has to be out of the way.
And as he said, be very careful with the bottom acorn nuts.  Use Blue Loctite and just snug them down.  Don't use the torque values in the books!  I was lucky I read two threads on broken studs just before I did mine. You've been warned.  ;)
Enjoy the shocks.  They changed the dynamics of my bike tremendously.
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sethne

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Reply #5 on: June 05, 2013, 09:34:56 am
Does anyone know if I will have to adjust the chain since I am going with 310mm shocks?


D the D

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Reply #6 on: June 05, 2013, 01:45:45 pm
Does anyone know if I will have to adjust the chain since I am going with 310mm shocks?
I used the stock height, but I don't imagine you will.  You're not changing the overall arc, just the starting height.  Swap the shocks then measure the chain.   Measuring is pretty easy.
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mattsz

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Reply #7 on: June 05, 2013, 05:17:27 pm

And as he said, be very careful with the bottom acorn nuts.  Use Blue Loctite and just snug them down.  Don't use the torque values in the books!  I was lucky I read two threads on broken studs just before I did mine. You've been warned.  ;)
Enjoy the shocks.  They changed the dynamics of my bike tremendously.

+1.  Don't ask me how I know!  Use the blue stuff and make them "tight enough".

Dave Quinn supplied me with Hagons - I don't notice any difference at all.  I do have a springer solo seat, but I wonder if the new shock springs are too stiff?  The real test would be, I guess, if I put the OEM seat back on, which beat my back raw on the rough Maine roads.

Also, the shrouds squeak against the compressing springs embarrassingly when I put weight on the bike - can't hear it over the engine while underway, of course, but if I climb aboard and sit while the bike is quiet, it sounds pretty bad!


barenekd

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Reply #8 on: June 05, 2013, 07:03:59 pm
Pull one shock at a time you should be able to move the other five millimeters easily enough. If you pull both shocks then you have to wrestle with the weight of the wheel. You shouldn't need to adjust the chain, or anything else, assuming the chain doesn't need to be adjusted now.
As mentioned, be careful, don't break the bottom stud off! Go lightly on the torque on that nut! I think the guys who broke it probably bottomed the acorn nut on the stud. But didn't see that part, so not sure.
Bare 
« Last Edit: June 06, 2013, 05:02:25 pm by barenekd »
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mattsz

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Reply #9 on: June 06, 2013, 12:43:34 am
I think the guys who broke it probably bottomed the acorn nut on the stud. But didn't see that part, so not sure.

Bare - I'm not sure either.  The stud broke right where it entered the acorn nut, so I couldn't grab the stud and remove it from the nut.  I didn't feel like trying to dig the broken end out!


Arizoni

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Reply #10 on: June 06, 2013, 05:25:35 am
That's the big problem with acorn nuts.
The stud or bolt can bottom out inside them and there is no way of knowing.
If that happens, rather than making the nut tighter on whatever its clamping, all of the additional torque tries to twist off the stud or bolt.

They look cool but a regular nut won't get folks into trouble by doing that.
Jim
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D the D

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Reply #11 on: June 06, 2013, 01:06:14 pm
...They look cool but a regular nut won't get folks into trouble by doing that.
A shiny, self locking (nylon insert type) nut looks pretty good and will let you see where the end of the stud is.
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heloego

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Reply #12 on: June 07, 2013, 02:44:38 am
Yeah, but some folks (like me) like the look of the acorn nut. Just seems a little more "polished" to me. No pun intended.
After reading these posts, I removed one of them and measured the protruding length of the bolt and compared it to the depth of the nut+washer. Bearing in mind the inconsistencies in the hardware from the factory, I got inconsistent  measurements at all four locations. Some with room to spare and some with none.
Rather than deal with bolt removal, I grabbed a file and took a few thousands of the long ones and re-installed the acorns.
I did not use the published torques. Snugged them up and 1/3 turn (or less) to tighten. No problems.
In all fairness, I've been a mechanic for over 25 years so I have a good feel for when to stop tightening, so some advice for the guys just jumping into mechanics:
DO NOT use the RE-published Torque values in the Service Manual or the NFG catalog unless you have double-checked them with folks here in the forums!
(When I read 20 ft/lbs for the spark plug I just shook my head.)
But you know, doing it right is half the fun!  :)
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #13 on: June 07, 2013, 03:07:14 am
Most things that aren't part if the engine just get a "good n tight" from me.  I never use a torque wrench on a spark plug in an aluminum head, that's just asking for trouble.

Scott


heloego

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Reply #14 on: June 07, 2013, 03:10:29 am
+1 !
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D the D

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Reply #15 on: June 07, 2013, 03:29:47 am
An A&P License holder may be a bit too qualified to work on an Enfield. :P
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heloego

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Reply #16 on: June 08, 2013, 12:45:43 am
I haven't touched a bike in ,well, uh, a long time, and about all I've really worked on is turbo-shafts, so getting back into the recip thing is really kind of a gas. The only problem is...no problems yet.  :o
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