[Bulletman]

I was attempting to do two things: Check my Chain for tightness ( its good, about 1 1/2 inches ) and also make sure the wheels were aligned. When I was done I tried to tighten the wheel and the right side snail keeps jumping the Pin , I can only tighten the 30mm nut just to a point (which is not very tight at all) any more pressure and the Snail jumps the pin, I tried to put on the castle nut and tighten it that way, but that too turns the 30mm nut and makes the snail jump the pin....I'm not sure I'd like to leave it that way, not that it's loose...but it's definitely not tight either....any suggestions are appreciated... Cheers

[2bikebill]

I jam a large screwdriver in the gap at the other end of the snail cam to stop the cam turning as I tighten the nut.
Alternatively, you could fit the Hitchcocks adjusters and have done with the snail cams forever. They don't have as much adjustment as the snails, but once you also get shot of the stock chain and fit something decent, they wont need to....

[gashousegorilla]

   That IS a PIA. Mine does the same. It's not so much that the snail changes position as you tighten the axle nut.... as you tighten the axle nut ,your changing your alignment some. The swing arm squeezes in unevenly as you tighten, and changes things. That's why you end up with the snails on different notches when the wheel is straight. The snails compensate for this.

   The way I do the alignment and it works for me......and it's not by the book, so it's up to you........ Is to just align the front and rear sprockets. I lay a straight edge flat up against the side of the rear tire and the bottom of it laying on the chain.  A STRAIGHT  2 1/2' or 3'  piece of 1x4 or 1x6 pine works nice.  The large dimension of the wood on the tire, and the small dimension on the chain. That way you can see if your wheel needs to go left or right.... usually right.... to bring the chain and sprockets inline.  You will be looking for an even space from the right side edge of the chain, to the edge of the wood. All the way towards the front sprocket. To keep it from moving as you tighten...I usually have to push in on the front left of the wheel as I go.  Checking alignment and chain tension all the while. 

[Bulletman]

@GHG. - QUOTE -
"I lay a straight edge flat up against the side of the rear tire and the bottom of it laying on the chain.  A STRAIGHT  2 1/2' or 3'  piece of 1x4 or 1x6 pine works nice.  The large dimension of the wood on the tire, and the small dimension on the chain."
 
"to bring the chain and sprockets inline.  You will be looking for an even space from the right side edge of the chain, to the edge of the wood. All the way towards the front sprocket."
GHG....
If you could possibly/please take a picture of this, it would tremendously help me, I'm so much more visual...I'm sure I would be able to connect the dots so to speak, much more easily..
Cheers.

[barenekd]

You need to keep pressure on the axle, so it doesn't slide back as you're tightening it. But make sure your wheel is straight and aligned first. Do not assume the snail notches will be the same on both sides when everything is aligned. They probably won't. When you  have everything aligned put the snail in the notch it needs to be in to maintain the alignment, then put a big screwdriver in the axle hole to keep it from rotating and as a pressure point to hold onto to keep the axle from slipping back as you tighten the nut. It's a tough reach, but it can be done!
Bare

[NH Oldguy]

I installed the Hitchcock's threaded adjusters as part of switching to an o-ring chain, because I felt that the snail adjustment increments were too coarse.  One "click" of the snail took my chain from too loose to too tight.  The ability to set the tension - and rear wheel alignment - with precision is well worth the cost of these parts, IMO.  Avoiding the problem with the snail position jumping during tightening is icing on the cake.

[barenekd]

Just another little project while you are messing with the chain. Be sure to centralize your brake while you are at it. Loosen the small nut on the brake backing plate in front of the axle.
If it's not loose, loosen the big backing plate nut that is behind the axle nut. Tighten down the brake adjuster nut until the brake is locked. Align the wheel, then tighten the nuts, the backing plate one first then the axle nut then the smaller pivot pin nut ahead of axle. HTen redjust the brake adjusting to the point where there is no rubbing noise. You should only have about a 1/2" or less brake pedal play. You may have a great increase in braking response depending on how well yours had been centered when you go it.
Bare 

[barenekd]

See my comments under "Aluminum Block Chain Adjusters" under the "Parts And Adjustments Q&A" section.
There are pros and cons to the optional adjusters.
Bare

[gashousegorilla]

See my comments under "Aluminum Block Chain Adjusters" under the "Parts And Adjustments Q&A" section.
There are pros and cons to the optional adjusters.
Bare

    +1 !    I'm not crazy about them.  IMHO, they are not well made and don't fit well. And I can get the wheel straight just as easy with the snails.

  @Bulletman...... If your doing it now, PM me your cell # or email and I'll text it to you.  Or you will have to wait until I can get from my phone..... to the computer.... then onto here.

[gashousegorilla]

  Ok here, this is to give you an idea. Hope they came out clear....... Anyways, Your looking for a straight wheel and sprockets and chain to line up, with correct slack in the chain.  Your using the straight edge to site this. When I do it, I don't care were my snail notches land.....so long as it's straight. And i don't rely on marking the the snails.... because the next time you do it, it may be different.  You can go ahead after doing this, and check your front to rear wheel alignment if you want. It should be close.  If it's not ?  Something is up........  Sprockets should align as well as front and rear wheels.

[Bulletman]

  Ok here, this is to give you an idea. Hope they came out clear....... Anyways, Your looking for a straight wheel and sprockets and chain to line up, with correct slack in the chain.  Your using the straight edge to site this. When I do it, I don't care were my snail notches land.....so long as it's straight. And i don't rely on marking the the snails.... because the next time you do it, it may be different.  You can go ahead after doing this, and check your front to rear wheel alignment if you want. It should be close.  If it's not ?  Something is up........  Sprockets should align as well as front and rear wheels.

Thanks very much GHG...I got it now, really appreciate the help.

[Bulletman]

@WilW
@bare
@NH Oldguy
Thanks for all the help.

[Bulletman]

@GHG
I see a clearer picture now....this means I have to get the chain guard off...and that would mean I have to take the right side shock off as well, as the chain guard is connected to the shock.....

[gashousegorilla]

   Hold that thought...... let me get you another pic.

[Royalista]

Yes, that won't do.
But the essence remains the same: monitor the chain for straightness, csq aligned sprockets. And if despite all efforts a small misalignment remained the bike would not go straight with hands off the bars. Not a recommended method but as a final check still valuable.

Marking the snails is a good starting point but not to be taken as permanent fact. Even at one time does not mean it will be even ever after.

[gashousegorilla]

@GHG
I see a clearer picture now....this means I have to get the chain guard off...and that would mean I have to take the right side shock off as well, as the chain guard is connected to the shock.....

  Sorry, I forgot I no longer have that big arse fender back there. But no.... you don't have to remove the shock. Only loosen the lower nut of it a bit. And take out the two other bolts to remove the chain guard. If I remember correctly.... they were 10 or 12 mm headed ? .... That part of the chain guard that is secured under the shock stud is forked.

[GreenMachine]

I just did this procedure on my 06 iron as I just installed a new chain...What I found is to be sure you check that the bronze spacers (aka: distance collars)  are put on correctly..One side is larger than the other (just a large looking washer)...The other thing was that the 30 mm Thin nut that goes on first tightens the hub assembly  and the outer castle nut with split pin pulls/tightens the rear long spindle (essentially securing the rear chain/hub/brake to the rear frame assembly..For what its worth, it seems to be that one nut in unison with the rear hub spindle that secures the tire and associated hardware to the rear frame..The split pin prevents the castle nut from backing off  and falling off (not a good thing to happen)...As a matter of fact I have to readjust the chain as it's a bit too tight. One notch down should do the trick as sitting on the bike only makes it tighter (u might want someone close to your weight to sit on the bike as you verify your chain adjustment)...GM

[gashousegorilla]

 Better pic of C-5 chain guard showing all three mounting tabs....

[Royalista]

@gashousegorilla
May I inquire why you removed the chain guard?

[gashousegorilla]

@gashousegorilla
May I inquire why you removed the chain guard?

  Didn't fit the bike IMHO.........