Author Topic: Issue (Read 5335 times)

arunvader · **on:** May 09, 2013, 05:42:39 pm

Hello everyone

I was riding my bike to work today (33 miles into LA) cruising around 70mph and as I let up on the throttle the bike begun to jerk. (It only happened once) As if fuel was being cut off and then back on and then back off. It was like a jolt for about 5 seconds of power/ no power /no power. Luckily after the 5 seconds the bike started responding again to the throttle.

Do any of you have any idea why this would happen?

Rich Mintz · **Reply #1 on:** May 09, 2013, 06:02:15 pm

One thing to check: the ground wire for the fuel system. It's a thin black wire that branches off from the thick main lead bundle, right near the negative battery terminal. Just a few inches back from that branch, it (the thin ground wire) reaches a small plastic tab connector, which may be loose.

You may have to disconnect and remove the battery to get to this area. (Disconnect neg first, then pos; reconnect in reverse)

This is exactly what disabled me in a similar manner a month ago. I taped the connector together securely with electrical tape.

gremlin · **Reply #2 on:** May 10, 2013, 04:30:05 am

sounds like it could be the rev-limiter, did you down-shift ?

TWinOKC · **Reply #3 on:** May 10, 2013, 04:36:06 am

Check the battery cables, sometimes they get loose, crack or break.

arunvader · **Reply #4 on:** May 10, 2013, 05:27:36 am

Sure enough after my 12 hour day at work I was cruising home on the 405 and my bike started to act up. So here I am stuck on the side of the road

High On Octane · **Reply #5 on:** May 10, 2013, 05:48:17 am

Check your battery terminals. They are notorious for breaking UNDER the plastic insulation.

Scottie

hortoncode3 · **Reply #6 on:** May 10, 2013, 01:22:39 pm

Change the plug too, to Iridium. and yeah, check those terminals...

arunvader · **Reply #7 on:** May 10, 2013, 05:37:44 pm

Thanks for the advice. Sure enough when I removed the battery this morning I found the ground wire for the fuel system unplugged! I taped it back in and will be testing it out this weekend.

Thanks again everyone

Rich Mintz · **Reply #8 on:** May 10, 2013, 05:41:14 pm

HOORAY!!! Congratulations!

arunvader · **Reply #9 on:** May 14, 2013, 05:41:11 pm

So I thought I solved my issue, but I guess I haven't. After reconnecting the ground for the fuel injection I took the bike out for another test ride only to find it acting in the same way. I pulled the spark plug and replaced it, which did nothing to help the problem. I'm really starting to think its the rev-limiter.

gashousegorilla · **Reply #10 on:** May 14, 2013, 06:11:21 pm

Quote from: arunvader on May 09, 2013, 05:42:39 pm

Hello everyone

I was riding my bike to work today (33 miles into LA) cruising around 70mph and as I let up on the throttle the bike begun to jerk. (It only happened once) As if fuel was being cut off and then back on and then back off. It was like a jolt for about 5 seconds of power/ no power /no power. Luckily after the 5 seconds the bike started responding again to the throttle.

Do any of you have any idea why this would happen?

It doesn't sound like the rev limiter from what you describe here. If it happens as you roll "OFF" the throttle. The limiter kicks in as you are reving the heck out of it...as if you were on the highway doing 70 in third gear. The limiter does kill fuel and ignition, but as you open the throttle and over rev it.

If it's doing it OFF throttle...It could be your AFR. Too rich or lean.. How did the old plug look? Any backfiring when it does it ? Any backfiring when you shift through the gears? Also, does your MIL light stay on?

arunvader · **Reply #11 on:** May 14, 2013, 07:00:35 pm

Quote from: gashousegorilla on May 14, 2013, 06:11:21 pm

It doesn't sound like the rev limiter from what you describe here. If it happens as you roll "OFF" the throttle. The limiter kicks in as you are reving the heck out of it...as if you were on the highway doing 70 in third gear. The limiter does kill fuel and ignition, but as you open the throttle and over rev it.

If it's doing it OFF throttle...It could be your AFR. Too rich or lean.. How did the old plug look? Any backfiring when it does it ? Any backfiring when you shift through the gears? Also, does your MIL light stay on?

I put the D & D exhaust on it about a month ago. I will get a pop everyone once in a while. The plug didn't look bad. My MIL light will come on when the bike is cutting in and out. It has completely shut off on me twice while experiencing the issue, but fired back up after I toggled the kill switch.

The only other change I have done to the bike besides the D & D exhaust was add the K & N filter. (Do you think it could be running to lean or rich causing the issue?)

Thanks

gashousegorilla · **Reply #12 on:** May 14, 2013, 07:19:41 pm

Yes... lean. But unlikely to make your bike stall, unless it was WAY lean. Which could be, without checking after putting on a free flowing exhaust AND filter. Was your plug real WHITE around the center ? Your MIL light will come on as the bike stalls, thats normal. But I would check for any codes by grounding out the purple wire that comes off behind the ECU. Key on...kill switch on..then wait for a series of blinks. We could decipher them if you have any.

arunvader · **Reply #13 on:** May 14, 2013, 07:59:20 pm

Quote from: gashousegorilla on May 14, 2013, 07:19:41 pm

Yes... lean. But unlikely to make your bike stall, unless it was WAY lean. Which could be, without checking after putting on a free flowing exhaust AND filter. Was your plug real WHITE around the center ? Your MIL light will come on as the bike stalls, thats normal. But I would check for any codes by grounding out the purple wire that comes off behind the ECU. Key on...kill switch on..then wait for a series of blinks. We could decipher them if you have any.

For a month I have had the exhaust and filter on with no problems... just started last week. The plug was not real white around the center. When I get home tonight I will ground out the purple wire.

Thanks

gremlin · **Reply #14 on:** May 14, 2013, 09:26:14 pm

Quote from: Scottie J on May 10, 2013, 05:48:17 am

Check your battery terminals. They are notorious for breaking UNDER the plastic insulation.

Scottie

+1

gashousegorilla · **Reply #15 on:** May 14, 2013, 09:59:02 pm

Quote from: arunvader on May 14, 2013, 07:59:20 pm

For a month I have had the exhaust and filter on with no problems... just started last week. The plug was not real white around the center. When I get home tonight I will ground out the purple wire.

Thanks

It also wouldn't hurt to go over your exhaust connections while you at it.......Things may have settled in a bit. And if you want to go crazy and out of curiosity, You could take a Voltage reading off of the TPS. I could be wrong here...But..... I have a suspicion that the rev limiter kicks in earlier when your AFR's are too lean in the higher RPM range and wider throttle position..... I did have bit of "Spiking" when tuning mine, before fattening up the mix in the upper RPM range. Just a thought.....

mattsz · **Reply #16 on:** May 15, 2013, 01:38:00 am

Quote from: Scottie J on May 10, 2013, 05:48:17 am

Check your battery terminals. They are notorious for breaking UNDER the plastic insulation.

Quote from: gremlin on May 14, 2013, 09:26:14 pm

+1

And another.

This sounds just like what happened to me. I finally reached a point where I was able to kill or run the bike by turning on or off the headlight. The battery terminal connectors - they break inside the heat-shrink insulation, which holds them together well enough to make them look ok, and well enough to maybe perhaps allow a decent connection until you get the engine vibrating just right, or what have you. I had to cut that insulation right off to discover the problem - the ground connector fell into two pieces in my hand when I opened it up.

arunvader · **Reply #17 on:** May 15, 2013, 04:03:22 pm

I cut the insulation off the battery cables this morning and I didnt find any suggestion of damage. I am at a lost right now. Ripping off the D & D exhaust and taking it to the shop.

wildbill · **Reply #18 on:** May 16, 2013, 02:05:58 am

give the bike a run without the k&n filter. i had that much trouble with mine it's back in it's box

arunvader · **Reply #19 on:** May 16, 2013, 02:13:35 am

I'm just confused on why it would run great with the D & D exhaust and K&N filter for about a month before the issue. Makes me think its something besides those two, but I will pull the filter tonight and put the stock one back on for a test.

wildbill · **Reply #20 on:** May 16, 2013, 07:16:37 am

at least...worth a try

gashousegorilla · **Reply #21 on:** May 16, 2013, 02:15:55 pm

Quote from: arunvader on May 16, 2013, 02:13:35 am

I'm just confused on why it would run great with the D & D exhaust and K&N filter for about a month before the issue. Makes me think its something besides those two, but I will pull the filter tonight and put the stock one back on for a test.

You might have developed a leak on the exhaust system after riding it for a month. Maybe making a lean condition even worse. Look at the connection at the head in particular.

gremlin · **Reply #22 on:** May 17, 2013, 03:07:12 am

exhaust leaks at the head will draw Oxygen in behind the exhaust pulse. this extra oxygen in the exhaust stream can be interpreted by the O2 sensor as a lean condition. the ECU will then compensate by adding extra fuel. this will cause your plug to soot-up.

arunvader · **Reply #23 on:** June 05, 2013, 05:27:13 pm

After being out of town... I was finally able to hook my ecu up and figure out the code. The problem lies with the fuel pump.

barenekd · **Reply #24 on:** June 05, 2013, 06:56:11 pm

Look at all the safety switches, particularly the sidestand switch. They have a habit of the connections coming loose. Very common, easy fix.
Spark plugs and Rev limiters are not your problem. It's a loose connection someplace.
Bare

gashousegorilla · **Reply #25 on:** June 05, 2013, 07:29:06 pm

Quote from: arunvader on June 05, 2013, 05:27:13 pm

After being out of town... I was finally able to hook my ecu up and figure out the code. The problem lies with the fuel pump.

Interesting... I just had the same problem last week. And it did give me a lean condition. Although I don't have the stock pump, I got the Code. Actually the Injector and pump code. After checking the circuit, I was able to diagnose it by checking fuel pressure. The pump was on the way out....

arunvader · **Reply #26 on:** June 22, 2013, 03:50:56 am

My problems continue.... So i just got my bike back from the dealer on saturday. On my ride home I noticed the bike vibrating a lot. (At 60 mph my hand was numb) When the dealer fixed the problem with the EFI (not sure what the issue was he wasn't in when i picked up the bike) I had him do a full service on the bike. I am not assuming the alignment on the bike wheel is off.

Arizoni · **Reply #27 on:** June 22, 2013, 04:59:07 am

For a vibration problem the first things I would check is the tightness of all of the bolts that attach the engine to the frame.

The bolt that holds the bottom of my engine to the frame below the kick starter had broken on mine. It had sheared off so the end of the bolt and the nut were gone.

Another place that has given some people a vibration problem is the cylinder head steady that connects the rear of the cylinder head with the frame at the rear of the fuel tank.
If the bracket breaks or the bolts that attach it to the engine or frame come loose that can cause mischief.

Sectorsteve · **Reply #28 on:** June 22, 2013, 05:45:44 am

Is your side stand kill switch still connected?

arunvader · **Reply #29 on:** June 22, 2013, 06:42:20 am

No it isnt.