Author Topic: Hagon shock installation, my way - uh oh...  (Read 16854 times)

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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #30 on: May 03, 2013, 06:39:16 pm
Yes - drain the oil. Place a pan underneath to collect oil that will come out.

Don't bother.  I just did mine on the side stand without draining.  It only dripped a couple of ounces so I just topped it off when I was all back together.  Keep the drain pan there while you're working.

Scott


barenekd

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Reply #31 on: May 03, 2013, 07:58:55 pm
It's OK to screw up a bad part worse. It was broken anyway. Just means he'll have to drill it out. No biggie.
Nice photo layout you did. That is a big step in becoming a great mechanic. Now you now how to do a Service manual! Congrats!!
As for changing the sprocket, drain the oil the normal way so you won't have so much  coming out of the crankcase cover seam. If it's fresh oil in there, there's nothing wrong with keeping it in a clean container and reusing it.
I hope you have the necessary socket for the countershaft nut! 46mm. Plan on it being tight!
As for the stud breaking, were the threads dry (no oil or loctite) when you were torquing it? If they weren't dry them you can overtorque it easily because of the lack of resistance on the threads. Make sure, using a torque wrench, that the threads are dry! You kinda have to guess if your have them lubed. Some mechanic's tricks are learned purely by experience.
Bare
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #32 on: May 03, 2013, 08:11:47 pm
1 13/16" also works well, it's something like 42.01mm and SAE sockets that large are about half the price of metric.

Scott


mattsz

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Reply #33 on: May 03, 2013, 08:51:08 pm
Bare - the stud was dry.  I learned about adjusting torque values with lubricated threads... right here on this forum.  And, I wasn't worried about mucking up the broken stud - I just thought I'd let you know about it since you suggested that it might turn out or break off with the vice-grips.

Sprocket change:  The bike is on its center stand, and of course there's no rear wheel mounted, so I can't use the side stand.  I'll just drain the oil, it's easy.

But... can I leave the oil filter in place?

I have the Harbor Freight giganta-socket set, which as I understand it has the correct size.  Not sure yet what I'll do if I can't get the nut off without an impact wrench.  But I'm in no hurry...


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #34 on: May 03, 2013, 08:54:42 pm
Unless you have an impact wrench there's no way to keep the sprocket from turning when you try to remove the nut.  With the chain on and the rear brake cranked down it won't spin.  If you have an impact just putting the bike in gear should be good enough.

Scott
« Last Edit: May 03, 2013, 09:51:28 pm by Ducati Scotty »


mattsz

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Reply #35 on: May 03, 2013, 09:01:20 pm
Well, in that case, I'll see if my car-guy neighbor has something, or else I'll wait until I put the swing arm and wheel back on...


barenekd

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Reply #36 on: May 03, 2013, 09:43:24 pm
You can always shove a block of wood between the sprocket and case. Do put it in 1st gear though. That'll add a bit more drag to the equation. If you wait until you get the swing arm back on then you can put the bike on the side stand and pull the case side off without losing much oil. Be careful, you may need to lean it over a bit more.
The socket set as the right socket in it.
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The_Rigger

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Reply #37 on: May 03, 2013, 09:51:49 pm
Get a metric bolt of the same size, grade 8, if possible, and take the swingarm to a welder.

I don't know as I'd use a Grade 8 bolt over a Grade 5; the Grade 8 is certainly stronger in tension and compression than the Grade 5 fastener, but it's also more brittle, due to the hardening process, and therefore could be weaker *in shear*, and shear strength is more what you'd want in a shock mounting stud or bolt, wouldn't it?  Grade 8 bolts would snap from shock-loading before a Grade 5 would, due to the brittleness - that's why I am required to use Grade 5 fasteners in lieu of Grade 8s when building and installing overhead rigging systems in theatres (my day job, when I'm not touring with a given show).

I am also leary of applying welding-level heat to a Grade 8 bolt... I suppose it depends on whether the Weldor lets the completed weld air-cool, or if he oil-quenches or water-quenches the weld.  In any case, the hardening process that makes a hardened fastener "hardened" could be partially or completely undone by the weld.

Just pondering things, here...  Don't mind me... Certainly worth considering, though.
-Dave
2012 C5 Special
Central Michigan, USA (when I'm not working somewhere else)


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #38 on: May 03, 2013, 09:54:43 pm
Ok, how long are we gonna talk about this?  We're like a bunch of little old ladies or something.  Matt, get to the welder already! ;)


1 Thump

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Reply #39 on: May 03, 2013, 10:29:33 pm
Royal Enfield: Making mechanics out of men, one bolt at a time!

Aint that the truth brothers ?


Gypsyjon

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Reply #40 on: May 03, 2013, 10:54:32 pm
I amliking my stock shocks better all the time....


Bulletman

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Reply #41 on: May 03, 2013, 11:48:18 pm
@Mattsz--Great Job with the pictures... here is my progress report.
I made a lot of phone calls (started 9.30 AM California time) got done in 30 minutes with the calls. Found a place that would give me the Metric bolt of the same size, length and pitch, (i bought 2, cost $4.50 including the nuts)
I proceeded to take the swing arm off, and surprised myself by doing the process in 30 minutes. (Matts pics did help).
Took the swingarm to the Bolt place to maje sure I was getting the right size and all... ;)
There was a welding place across the street ;D
Talked to the welder guy, we sat and pondered a bit  ;D
Decided to grind off the bolt, then figured maybe we could hammer out the stud side of the bolt which was on the tire side of the swing arm.....lo and behold it popped out.. all I the welder had to do was weld the bolt in, then we put 2 washers on the outside of the swing arm bolt, the protruding side and welded those on, then we were set to go.
the whole thing including the bolts (Grade 8 ) and nuts, the welding and prep work which took about an Hour, cost me a total of $34.50. :)
Thank you guys once again for all the help. ( tomorrow, I will put it all back together )
Cheers
Mark
"A Blast from my Past"
Black C5 2011


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #42 on: May 03, 2013, 11:56:30 pm
Now that's what I'm talking about!  Less yackin', more hackin'!

But I reserve the right to retract that statement should your repair fail on its maiden voyage.   :P

Scott


wildbill

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Reply #43 on: May 04, 2013, 12:37:16 am
i'd like to see you get a welder here for that total  ;) i bet it would be $50 before he sticks it and after that -how much he could get out of you.
great deal and a great fix. ride on and all the best.


mattsz

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Reply #44 on: May 04, 2013, 12:58:39 pm
Sounds great Bulletman!  You're way ahead of me.  I'm waiting for my welder now, but he's got a day job, and he's sick.  He promised no more than $30 for the job, so that sounds about right... @Wildbill, in an area with so few commercial shops, you often have to spend more time searching for these guys, but often the cost ends up being less.  I do have to paint the end result myself, though...  ;D

My guy says he's got so many studs and bolts of all shapes, sizes and grades around that he's certain he'll have what he needs, but just in case I need to buy one - what size bolts did you end up getting?