Author Topic: Blasting chrome off exhaust and painting black!?  (Read 16008 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

GreenForce82

  • Frank The TECH
  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 406
  • Karma: 0
  • The Dude Abides
on: April 23, 2013, 08:33:25 am
Before I take my potential trip, I have the oppotunity to have a buddy blast all the chrome off my exhaust and allow me to paint it with high temp paint either stove pipe paint or engine paint or something...

Suggestions.

CHEAP.

I know that cheap is taboo sometimes, but in this case I feel that the paint will stick to a clean bead blasted surface...

anybody who has done this have any suggestions?

I am also thinking of high temp RTV sealing the exhaust upon refitting just because I can. I wish I had a finned dissapator to place over the RTV bead to hide it but EH...

Thanx!
"Counted his friends in burned-out spark plugs
and prays that he always will.

But he's the last of the blue blood greaser boys all of his mates are doing time:

Married with three kids up by the ring road
sold their souls straight down the line.


High On Octane

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,075
  • Karma: 0
Reply #1 on: April 23, 2013, 01:44:23 pm
Sand blasting chrome typically sucks.  Usually you need to strip the chrome using the same process theythey use to apply the chrome.  Chances are you won't remove the chrome, so what you are trying to achieve is to just "etch" or "profile" the chrome surface so the primer/paint has a rough surface to stick to.  VHT makes good engine and header paint.

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


Guaire

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,981
  • Karma: 0
Reply #2 on: April 23, 2013, 04:26:53 pm
You might consider having the exhaust ceramic coated.
ACE Motors - sales & administration


barenekd

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 5,516
  • Karma: 0
Reply #3 on: April 23, 2013, 05:16:22 pm
Using RTV will do well with stopping small leaks, but I don't think I'd put the exhaust pipe back in without the gasket. I used the original used gaskets and RTV with great success.
Bare
2013 Moto Guzzi V7 Racer
2011 Black Classic G5 (RIP)
I refuse to tiptoe through life only to arrive safely at death
http://www.controllineplans.com


curtisbelford

  • Scooter
  • **
  • Posts: 41
  • Karma: 0
Reply #4 on: April 24, 2013, 01:34:51 am
You could even try something different and glass wrap them black also.  ;)


Ice

  • Hypercafienated
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,753
  • Karma: 0
  • Ride In Paradise Cabo, Don and Ernie
Reply #5 on: April 24, 2013, 02:35:23 am
 After few false starts I have had good luck with the versachem exhaust sealer goop that comes in a tube available at almost all auto parts stores.

 It is a mixture of sodium silicate and crystalline silica.
 
 The liquid tends to float to the top and the solids settle to the bottom while the tube is hanging on the rack.  The directions say to mix by kneading thoroughly.

Besides being nearly impossible it is a PITA so cutting the bottom of the tube off and squeezing it all into a butter tub and stirring with a popsicle stick has become my preferred method.
 
 Mixed on the dry side won't do.  It needs to be either mixed completely or mixed thin.

 I thoroughly clean the pipe and exhaust port with a green scrubby pad goop the stuff on and hammer the pipe home. By the time the muffler is bolted down the goop is mostly dry.

 Firing up the the motor and letting the pipe warm up and BLAMMO ! the stuff turns almost to glass.

 
I just found out Hylomar makes and exhaust goop.
 Hylomar gasket sealer is incredibly good stuff. Good enough that Rolls Royce has specified it for use on their engines and GE specifies it for use on their turbine aircraft engines so I assume their (Hylomars ) exhaust sealer should be up to the task.
No matter where you go, there, you are.


D the D

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,174
  • Karma: 0
Reply #6 on: April 24, 2013, 03:26:40 am
The Verachem stuff is on my silencer/pipe joint.  I used gray High Temp Silicone at the Head Pipe to Head joint.  If you're worried about covering it over but don't have a heatsink ring to put on now, you can put one on later without removing the head pipe again.  Mark the ring directly across from the open part where the tightening bolt is.  Put the ring in a vice.  Drill a hole through the fins so as to put a bolt in later to hold it all together.  Dremel a scallop, if needed to put a screw and screwdriver through.  Saw through the ring between the fins where you marked.  Place each half on the pipe, position it, tighten the new bolt, then tighten the original bottom bolt.  Might be a bit ugly on close inspection, but no one has said anything to me.
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


GreenForce82

  • Frank The TECH
  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 406
  • Karma: 0
  • The Dude Abides
Reply #7 on: April 24, 2013, 06:06:18 am
Thanks for the tips, I shoulda thought about chrome being a plating and therefore it won't just blast off that easy.

We will see what time and budget allows.

Again,

Thanx!
"Counted his friends in burned-out spark plugs
and prays that he always will.

But he's the last of the blue blood greaser boys all of his mates are doing time:

Married with three kids up by the ring road
sold their souls straight down the line.


Ice

  • Hypercafienated
  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,753
  • Karma: 0
  • Ride In Paradise Cabo, Don and Ernie
Reply #8 on: April 24, 2013, 08:15:21 am
 The plating doesn't have to come off for paints to stick it just has to be etched for the coating to get a good mechanical adhesion or grip if you will.
 You can try blasting it with garnet or silicon dioxide grit to get a frosted appearance.
I have no idea which chemicals would do the trick.

No matter where you go, there, you are.


fdx

  • Bulleteer
  • ***
  • Posts: 102
  • Karma: 0
Reply #9 on: April 24, 2013, 01:17:33 pm
I just painted over chrome... or what left of it - exhaust was quite rusty...
Just sanded to clean rust a bit (hand sanded so not a greate job) then spray painted to black. That last for 2 years when rust start to come out again - tho my bike is on street all year round (ireland - so you can imagine how rainy is here). So I just sanded rust away one more time and painted again.

Anyway repainting exhaust every two years is not a big trouble... (even every year before season... wouldnt be...)
I have Bullet in my head...


GreenForce82

  • Frank The TECH
  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 406
  • Karma: 0
  • The Dude Abides
Reply #10 on: April 24, 2013, 04:47:03 pm
What is the recommendation for the paint,  stove pipe paint, engine paint, implement paint...  Etc...?

And for that matter, truly,  how difficult is it to remove the exhaust system. I am under the impression it simply un bolt from its mounting bracket and then is wiggled lose from the exhaust port.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2013, 04:49:33 pm by GreenForce82 »
"Counted his friends in burned-out spark plugs
and prays that he always will.

But he's the last of the blue blood greaser boys all of his mates are doing time:

Married with three kids up by the ring road
sold their souls straight down the line.


AgentX

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,514
  • Karma: 0
Reply #11 on: April 24, 2013, 06:29:47 pm
Google VHT and POR-15 brands for paint.  Or call Jet-Hot.


D the D

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 1,174
  • Karma: 0
Reply #12 on: April 24, 2013, 07:22:10 pm
I had have had to use a rubber mallet as well as rotate the pipe in the head.  Your experience may be different though.
Por15 makes a product called Black Velvet that has given me good results on car headers.  Haven't used in on my bike pipes yet.
http://www.por15.com/BLACK-VELVET/productinfo/BVH/
'07 Iron Barrel Military (Deceased 14 September, 2013)
2014 Yamaha Bolt R Spec V-Twin
1975 XLCH


High On Octane

  • Grand Gearhead
  • *****
  • Posts: 6,075
  • Karma: 0
Reply #13 on: April 25, 2013, 01:38:42 pm
POR-15 is really great stuff.  A little pricey and the shit takes forever to dry, but really good stuff.  And like I said earlier, VHT makes header paint that is resistant up to like 1200 degrees Fahrenheit, and is rather affordable at about $9 a can.

http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/

Scottie
2001 Harley Davidson Road King


GreenForce82

  • Frank The TECH
  • Grease Monkey
  • ****
  • Posts: 406
  • Karma: 0
  • The Dude Abides
Reply #14 on: May 03, 2013, 06:25:49 am
This is the result of the bead blasting and partial painting of the stock exhaust I had laying around...

I wanted to do an 'adhesion test' before I spent the effort and potential problems of removing the shorty exhaust on the bike.

So far I like the result.

I used rattle can Rust-oleum specialty High Heat (1200 degree) tough protective enamel. It says it is for renewing grills, wood stoves and more...

5$ at Home Depot. 2 cans. 1/2 can for testing maybe more maybe less... the rest will go on the exhaust and the kick starter lever and shift lever which I have decided to black out as well.

BTW if someone likes the stock look and wants a Blacked Out Stock Exhaust... let me know I will finish it up as nice as I can and would be willing to let it go.
"Counted his friends in burned-out spark plugs
and prays that he always will.

But he's the last of the blue blood greaser boys all of his mates are doing time:

Married with three kids up by the ring road
sold their souls straight down the line.