Author Topic: Finally Riding Again (Read 5345 times)

raderj · **on:** April 21, 2013, 01:24:14 am

Rode my bike for the first time in over seven months!

It was covered in our storage unit and still looked nice. Lubed the chain. I pulled the plug and sprayed some WD-40 in there (about an ounce or less). Then while that sat for a minute I turned it over with the kick starter by hand a few times and reconnected the battery. Then I put a rag over the spark plug hole and used the electric starter to blow the rest of the WD-40 out. Plug back in, cap back on and she fired right up!

Smelled like a boat with a little white smoke out of the pipe until it warmed up but it ran great. I little bit of surface rust on some bolts and such that need tending to and the oil filter cover seeps a little. I will fix that when I change the oil this weekend.

Rode the bike home from the storage unit without a hitch and watched the sun go down.

A good first day after getting home from deployment!

Thanks for all the advice and help that led me to this day. It made it a cinch.

-Sgt Johnson
USMC/0351

mplayle · **Reply #1 on:** April 21, 2013, 02:18:34 am

Congratulations on the successful reviving of the bike and above all ...

Welcome Home!

Joel-in-dallas · **Reply #2 on:** April 21, 2013, 05:02:45 am

Welcome home! Enjoy your ride.

Ice · **Reply #3 on:** April 21, 2013, 07:26:38 am

WELCOME HOME RADERJ !!!!!!!!!

Ekatus Atimoss · **Reply #4 on:** April 21, 2013, 08:11:44 am

It was five months before the first ride in my case. Kept it on a charger/life extender, added some "fuel system protection" chemical into the tank, carefully washed the C5 and WD40ied all the visible metal parts. No rust so far. As for prepping the engine with oil in advance thorugh the spark plug hole, asking for advice was like asking two doctors and getting three different answers. So I just cranked the engine using the kickstart with ignition off and then...one click only...engine came to life with ignition on and e-start. Like if the bike was never stowed away. No smoke. No shaking. I thought "good job, RE" - one cannot ask for more.

Regards
Michael

ace.cafe · **Reply #5 on:** April 21, 2013, 12:44:41 pm

Welcome home, Sgt Johnson!

Enjoy your riding and be keep the shiny side up.

High On Octane · **Reply #6 on:** April 22, 2013, 01:25:02 am

Welcome home!

That's great that your bike fired up nice and healthy out of storage. Glad to hear you had an enjoyable 1st ride of the year. Here's to many more!

Scottie

raderj · **Reply #7 on:** April 22, 2013, 04:44:12 pm

Thanks guys! It's been kind of chilly so I am waiting to ride.

To do list:

Adjust chain
Clean whole bike and get rid of all rusty spots
Change front tire to K70 that I got in the mail
Change oil
Re-glue seat
Change the brake fluid (it grabs a little)
Change fork oil (sometimes the forks "stick" down when I brake and then pop back up when I give it some throttle on take off).

Should be fun!

-Sgt Johnson
USMC/0351

barenekd · **Reply #8 on:** April 22, 2013, 05:41:58 pm

Hi, Sarge,
Where are you stationed now?
Spray the bike down with some ACF-50. That will take care of your corrosion problems, the current ones and it's good for a year! Don't get too carried away with it, and put some paper or something under it to catch the excess!
Bare

raderj · **Reply #9 on:** April 24, 2013, 01:22:56 am

Thanks, Bare. I need to find some of that stuff.

I am stationed in Norfolk, VA now.

Culture shock on the East Coast!

GreenMachine · **Reply #10 on:** April 24, 2013, 03:56:24 pm

Sarge: Wow you're back..Seems like u just left...What was it 6 months ago? ...Remember u saying u wanted to do some work on the bike and change the tires..You just had no time to spare before departing tdy....Glad to see u made it back safe n sound..My buddies son is a navy seal stationed in Norfolk/Va beach area....Last September, the spouse and I spent 4 days along the boardwalk/bike path down by the statue of Neptune..
I was surprised by the volume of traffic and the road conditions of the major highways being in a bit of disrepair....A bit jaring on a enfield (I hate to think what a hardtail would feel like)... ... Glad to see she didn't let u down and started right up for ya after your extended break ....Enjoy your summer and hope u stay awhile..Thank You for your service.. Cheers..GM

barenekd · **Reply #11 on:** April 24, 2013, 06:32:24 pm

Quote

Thanks, Bare. I need to find some of that stuff.
I am stationed in Norfolk, VA now.
Culture shock on the East Coast!

HTe ACF-50 is available at some Auto Parts stores. O'Reilly's, I know sells it if you have any of those out there. A road test link:
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/404/15868/Motorcycle-Article/ACF-50-Corrosion-Preventative-Review.aspx?WT.i_e_dcsvid=1034574548

I spent a couple of years at Oceana a long time ago ('67-'69). I was racing Scrambles and Flat Track in those days while in the Navy. I had a pretty good time there!
Sorry we missed riding together while you were here!
Bare

raderj · **Reply #12 on:** April 25, 2013, 12:56:49 am

Yeah riding in CA was so fun. I wish I could have gone out with some of you local guys. There are some people over here that I have talked to that want to go for a ride. Enfield people in every place!

raderj · **Reply #13 on:** April 25, 2013, 03:55:39 am

I have a K70 sitting in my living room. Is it hard to change a tire out yourself?

Arizoni · **Reply #14 on:** April 25, 2013, 04:47:14 am

Sure it's possible to change a tire but if your like me you'll find it's easier to do half of the job and let the people who have the right equipment do the rest of it.

What's half the job?
Removing the wheel and taking it to the motorcycle shop.

If it's the front wheel the job is pretty easy if you have the right size wrenches and a scissor jack from your car.
Loosen the pinch bolts and the large nut on the front axle. Place the jack under the front engine mount and raise the bike so that the front tire is just clearing the pavement or floor. Knock out the axle keeping track of where the spacers are and being careful with the speedometer drive unit.
The rear tire is a little more work but there are some posts here that can help you thru it.

Getting back to doing the whole thing by yourself you'll find the tire changing tools supplied with the bike are pretty flimsy and they can be bent when your prying the tire off of the rim. Also, they supply two of them but you really need three.

The first time I changed a tire was on my Honda 400F. Getting the wheel off was easy.
Getting the tire off was a PITA but doable. Getting the new tire on however was a monumental task.
I tried dishwashing soap in water to lube the tire bead but even with this and all of my pry bars it took the better part of the afternoon. I was lucky because I didn't pinch the inner tube but doing that is easy to do and you won't know its damaged until you try to inflate the tire. Then, it's back to square one.

High On Octane · **Reply #15 on:** April 25, 2013, 03:54:54 pm

Quote from: raderj on April 25, 2013, 03:55:39 am

I have a K70 sitting in my living room. Is it hard to change a tire out yourself?

Changing tires can be a bit of struggle, but being you're in the Military you should be able to man-handle it. All you need is a milk crate to stabalize the wheel (they sell crate stands at motocross accessory stores that work great), some tire spoons (the longer the better), a bottle of Windex or soapy water and a bowl of Wheaties.

Deflate the tire and set the wheel on the milk crate so that the axle rests inside of the crate. Spray the beads of the wheel and tire liberally, then take the meat/palms of your hands and push downward on on both outer edges of the tire at the same time, this will usually break the bead. If that won't do it, I've had good luck using a C-clamp as well. Once you break the bead, it's pretty smooth sailing. Just use LOTS of lubricant when installing the new tire. Also make sure you line up the "balance dot" on the tire with the valve stem. There's lots of videos on youtube as well.

Scottie

raderj · **Reply #16 on:** April 25, 2013, 05:44:38 pm

Thanks for the advice. I will probably get it done at a shop. We'll see, though.

Ducati Scotty · **Reply #17 on:** April 25, 2013, 06:32:55 pm

If you don't go to the shop at least get good tire irons, get 3 at least 10" long. The ones in the kit should just go in the recycle bin.

Scott

Ice · **Reply #18 on:** April 25, 2013, 10:10:27 pm

EMGO makes some nice drop forged spoons as does motion pro.

With a little practice on a donor wheel before hand, flat repairs and tire changes can become fast and easy.

Jack Leis · **Reply #19 on:** April 25, 2013, 11:17:06 pm

I agree with Ice. Like anything , the more you do it the easier it gets. Some of us could probably do it in our sleep !

mattsz · **Reply #20 on:** April 26, 2013, 12:45:33 am

Quote from: Scottie J on April 25, 2013, 03:54:54 pm

All you need is a milk crate to stabalize the wheel (they sell crate stands at motocross accessory stores that work great), some tire spoons (the longer the better), a bottle of Windex or soapy water and a bowl of Wheaties.

When you get sick of fighting with your tire, take it to the shop and eat the bowl of Wheaties while you wait...

Sorry, couldn't resist - I haven't tried mine yet, but soon...

Jack Leis · **Reply #21 on:** April 26, 2013, 02:57:09 am

I use a Rubbermaid round trash can, maybe an 18 gallon I think it is. It elevates it high enough so I can sit on a shop stool and really go to town on it. Its no secret, plenty of lubrication is the ticket. I use liquid dish soap mixed 50/50 with water and a 4 " paint brush to apply it. A little removing the tire and alot putting the new one on. Once the tire is half on, inflate the tube alittle bit and put plenty of talcum or baby powder on it. That helps the tube go in smoothly. Do not tighten the tube nut. Just start it about an 1/8" and leave it. Make sure the stem is straight sticking out of the rim. If the new tire has a paint mark on it, line that up with the stem. Lube the crap out of the bead and pry it on. Once the tire is on the rim , make sure the stem is straight on the rim , run the stem nut down and leave it about an 1/8 " from the rim and leave it that way. Inflate the tire to your preferred pressure, check for leaks then install it back on the bike . There. You've done it ! YOU NOW HAVE BRAGGING RIGHTS !

mattsz · **Reply #22 on:** April 26, 2013, 11:07:20 am

Quote from: Jack Leis on April 26, 2013, 02:57:09 am

...run the stem nut down and leave it about an 1/8 " from the rim and leave it that way...

I understand that this lets the stem "tilt", allowing one to see if the tube is creeping and catching it before the stem is torn from the tube. My stem nuts spin freely on the stems once you loosen them from the rim. Locktite? A pair of stem nuts locked together (or would that just add potentially unbalancing weight)?

Jack Leis · **Reply #23 on:** April 26, 2013, 05:38:54 pm

Mattsz, In my very humble opinion, if I were you, I would just leave it loose at about an 1/8th " from the rim without Loctite then . . . . slowly walk away from it .

barenekd · **Reply #24 on:** April 26, 2013, 07:26:03 pm

I leave the nut out about a 1/2". Never known it to move.
Bare

mattsz · **Reply #25 on:** April 27, 2013, 02:06:51 pm

Well, ok then! On the one I looked at on my bike, you can give it a spin with your finger and it will ride up or down the stem a few turns - I just assumed that in motion it would wander.

So... if we're going to leave it "loose", why bother with it at all?

barenekd · **Reply #26 on:** April 27, 2013, 07:43:44 pm

It keeps the stem from falling out of the rim while your changing tires!
The whole idea of leaving it loose came from us dirt bike racers. so did my 1/2" clearance. I've had stem pull out nearly that far on dirt bikes. If I'd had only 1/8" clearance, the tube would've ripped! Granted, I probably had only about 10-12 psi in the tire, and I've never had an Enfield tire slip, but... I guess it's called practical experience! I know a 1/2" works, so they all get that!
Bare

Ice · **Reply #27 on:** April 27, 2013, 08:21:10 pm

I run the nut up wrench and pliers tight against the valve stem cap as a jam nut, does a few things for me.

(a) provides plenty of tilt before ripping out of the inner tube (b) gives an extra positive air seal at the valve stem core (c) keeps my uber cool chrome valve stem caps from magically transporting themselves onto the neighbor kids bicycles.

Ones like this are handy for removing/installing/tightening valve stem cores.