[barenekd]

When it gets "stuck" the shifter would neither shift up or down.
But it gets back to work by playing around/nudging it a bit, rather
than a hard thud on the shifter. Most of the times, I am able to shift
easily, even if I have come to a complete stop (though I usually finish
my shifting before coming to a full stop). Hope this helps to diagnose
the issue.

Same one I had. Kicking the end of the shaft inward sometimes freed it up, too. But I was just getting ready to tear into it when I crashed it. So, I may never know why it did it unless my new one does it! But as I said, the first place I would suspect is that tang/fork setup at the other end of the shifter shaft.
Bare

[Ducati Scotty]

Very easy to see if you remove the right engine cover.  If you do it on the side stand you only lose a few ounces of oil. 

Scott

[squire]

I had a bad false neutral issue during break in, I even posted on here about it. Oddly, it only lasted a few hundred kilos and went away never to return. I'm not aware of shifting any differently, but......

[Hierlekin]

I too get false neutrals, and while I don't feel as if I shift any differently than any other time, it does make me wonder if there is something else going on. I am still breaking my C5 in, so maybe this is just one of the "annoying little quirks".

Besides, it's only scary when I get a false trying to do something I shouldn't be doing in the first place 

[Rich Mintz]

I'm at 2500 miles on a new (2010 C5 bought new in 2012) bike. I get false neutrals very often when downshifting, occasionally when upshifting. Almost always the false neutrals on the downshift are because I "overshoot" as Barenkd suggested -- for instance, I go from 4 to 2.5 instead of 4 to 3. I've trained myself that, when I hit a false neutral, I recover by shifting up (halfway) rather than down.

Relatedly, often on downshift the shifter will "stick" in gear (I think in 3rd) and I have to gently bump the throttle (with the clutch pulled in) and kick the shifter in order to dislodge it.

The bike is pretty much broken in. I've tried various tricks; these issues have reduced but not gone away. If there's a trick that makes them completely disappear, I don't think I'm capable of that degree of finesse. They don't interfere with rideability or safety, they are just quirks of the bike, so I don't worry about them.

For whatever it's worth, I've also had the occasional false neutral and stick-on-downshift on the other bikes I've ridden (including a Harley Sportster 1200 and the new-from-factory Yamaha Star 650 I rented last week). I'm new-ish to motorcycles but have already learned to accept these as normal facts of life.

[Ducati Scotty]

Always a good move to shift up if you mis-shift or lose your place.  Less danger of letting the clutch out and sliding the back wheel from being in too low a gear.

What oil are you running Rich?

Scott

[Rich Mintz]

Scott -- I don't know, whatever oil the dealer put in at the 600-mile service. I'll be changing it on Sunday in motorcycle maintenance class. What do you advise? (I'm sure there's already a thread on this, just haven't looked yet.) I run almost exclusively in city traffic with a lot of shifting up and down, and we're heading into the hot season.

[Ducati Scotty]

Anything motorcycle and full synthetic is fine.  It may help the shifting.

Scott

[barenekd]

To be more specific, Mobil 1 V-Twin is made specifically for aircooled engines. Works very well!
Bare