[meilaushi]

With only a month and 400 miles on the bike, the rear tire went flat.  Can't see any nails or other items in the tire that would have caused this.  Anyway, a new tube came with the bike so I went to try to put it on this morning.  The rear wheel supposedly has a Quick Detach bolt and setup on it, however, after removing the requisite cotter pin and castellated nut, and withdrawing the QD bolt from the right side of the bike, and removing the spacer on the right side, the wheel insisted on remaining connected to the brake drum.  No amount of pulling it to the right did a bit of good.  The only thing I can figure is that somehow the cush rubbers are locked into the back of the brake... IF the drawings of the wheel in the parts book, Snidal, and the Super Manual from CMW are correct.  All the instructions say the wheel, for changing a tire should pull free from the brake system that remains bolted to the left side of the swing arm.  But nothing doing.  Does anyone know what might be going on?  Is a puzzlement, and I have no way of getting the bike back to the dealer in Hubbard from Pittsburgh unless I can get that bloody tire fixed... which means getting it out of the bike.  and it seems the wheel doesn't want to let go of the brake drum.  Grrrrrrr.  Frustration!!!  

I thought about breaking the chain and taking the whole brake out, but the *&^%$ chain hasn't a removable link that I can find, and I haven't a chain breaker.  More frustration--when the possible workaround isn't. Grrrrrrr.  And Double Grrrrrrr.

[Thumper]

I too struggled with the QD assembly the first time I tried.

It sounds like you've taken the correct steps and that it's hanging up on something.

review section "V Rear Brake Cam Lubrication and Rear Wheel and Brake-hub/Sprocket Removal" of http://members.verizon.net/allofusmorrows/RE_maintenance.htm

to see if you're overlooking anything.

Matt

[t120rbullet]

After you get everything apart give it a kick.
A friend of mines took 3 or 4 kicks to get it off.
CJ

[Vince]

     Loosen the brake adjustment.

[PaulF]

I thought about breaking the chain and taking the whole brake out, but the *&^%$ chain hasn't a removable link that I can find, and I haven't a chain breaker.  More frustration--when the possible workaround isn't. Grrrrrrr.  And Double Grrrrrrr.
[/quote]


If you have to break the chain, there must be a master link. The clip on my master link came painted a bright yellow. Hard to miss it.

[Sam]

like Vince said; back off several turns on the brake adjusting nut (on the threaded rod that sticks through the rear brake lever arm). Your rear brake probably works, which means the shoes are close to the drum. even a slight misalignment will make the shoes hold the wheel in place.

Loosen the brake adjustor. No need to remove the chain, etc.

[meilaushi]

I take it the brake drum comes off the brakes then?  I thought the thing split at the cush rubbers and that maybe those were somehow glued in.

Anyway...Thanks, Guys!  I'll give that all a try!  I did loosen the brake rod adjuster quite a ways, but maybe it needs some more.  And I'll give the kick(s) a go too... tomorrow morning--when its cooler--got 93° outside right now and the sun's too dang hot for us northerners used to Pittsburgh weather (cold and rainy).

[Bankerdanny]

The master link on the chain faces the inside of the chain (towards the right). I had the same problem locating mine when I changed out the counter sprocket. It's hard to see, but it's there. No chain breaker is required.

[meilaushi]

Great Heads-up Bankerdenny!  I never thought to look on the inside of the chain... all the break links I've ever seen have the clip on the outside.  Yessirree, these REs have a personality all their own!  ...I haven't found it yet, but I'm going to be back at it tomorrow morning when its cooler outside, and if the kick method doesn't work, I'll check out that link and try to get the wheel out using the old non-QD method if I can find that link on the inside of the chain.  Thankee Kind Sir!

[clamp]

 If you look at my thread " you may find this of interest"  It Is the original owners hand book containing instuctions on how to remove the rear wheel.

    There are two types one is a quick release type that need the spacer to be removed from the right side of the spindle giving room to drop the wheel out.

       The other type comes out with the drum. You will see a slide on the back plate that locates with a lug on the frame. This is so it can slide out.

      When putting back in the rubber cush drives,-- use a bit of washing up liquid as a lubricant.

[mrunderhill1975a]

Loosen the rear brake nut several turns, then give the wheel  a few kicks toward the right. (Make sure the ring spacer is removed so the wheel can move to the right).   When you get everything out, It will look like this .

[old attachment deleted by admin]

[meilaushi]

Looks like the brake drum stays on and the cush rubbers stay with the wheel.  Thanks!  I'll use the kick method first in hopes that that'll work... I loosened the brake rod nut (that adjusts the brake swing arm/brake action) yesterday but that didn't seem to have any effect... and if the drum doesn't come off anyway, what gives with the brake shouldn't have any effect one way or another, seems to me....  other than if I can't get the wheel to come loose with the cush rubbers and have to undo the whole shebang.  Hope it won't come to that!

Thanks for the picture!  that helps me see what should remain on the bike once the wheel is off.  Couldn't tell that from the pictures in the manuals or the parts book.

I'll let y'all know how I make out.  And now, down to the garage!

[meilaushi]

Well, I started at 8:30 and finally had the new tube in the tire and blown up at 11:30.  Boy!  I wouldn't want to have to try fixing a tire on the road.  Thanks all for the various suggestions.  Fortunately, I didn't have to remove the brake assembly.  But instead of 4 kicks, it took about 40.  Discovered something though... as the crack between the wheel and the brake assembly widened just a very wee bit, I put the QD axle back in as I had to roll the bike to get the center stand back on the center of the blocking I was using to get the wheel a little farther off the ground.  Before removing the QD axle I continued a kick or two and the wheel came loose almost immediately:  maybe the cush rubbers like to come straight out?  Next time (I hope there won't be!!!) I'll try removing the right hand spacers and replacing the QD axle before starting to kick the wheel.

The next tough thing was getting the new tube's valve and the little washer back into the hole in the rim.  That was fun and games, not to mention the mutteration of many words to the mountains (the moutains didn't help a bit!).  All I have to do now is get the wheel back on the bike.  Think I'll wet down the cush rubbers with some water laced with dish soap.  Considering the difficulty of getting the wheel off the cush lugs on the brake drum I can just imagine the fun I'll have this afternoon trying to get it back onto 'em.  Like they say, "Live and Learn!"

Seems to play out the old mechanic's rules:
1. If it says its easy in the manual, it won't be.
2. Workarounds are the order for the day.
3. The first workarounds never do.
4. Swearing and cogitating are beneficial.  Not necessarily in that order.  Sometimes.
 

Again, many thanks for the great help and advice!  It got the job done.  And I did find the chain undo link.  The clip was indeed colored yellow, and it was indeed on the inside of the chain, though why they'd put the thing on the side where it's hard to get at is totally behond me.

[t120rbullet]

When new the drum is painted black and when it heats up it sticks to the new tight cush rubbers. The next time you do it it will come apart easer.
The master link is on the inside because the chain comes real close to the frame and if the chain gets sloppy it will hit it. So for safetys sake put it back on the inside. On right shift models it's right up next to the nut that holds the brake lever on and will for sure knock the master link clip off in no time at all (ask me how I know!).
As far as being easy to change the tire I'd rather do 10 Bullet rear tires than 1 of my Triumph's rears. And I'd rather do 100 of em than 1 of my E-Glides.
CJ

[mrunderhill1975a]

It sounds like the cush rubbers were glued in place for some reason. I think CJ is right on the paint sticking to the rubbers.  Normally, If the spacer is out, the cush rubbers should come out with 1 or two kicks.  Next time you will have it done in 30-45 min.   You are correct about the brake nut, loosening it only helps if you are taking off the brake drum as well.

[meilaushi]

It is now 3:01PM EDST, and the job's done.  RE's in the garage.  Tire pumped up and holding air (so far!!!), brake nicely readjusted, chain readjusted (decided to do that while I was messing around the rear wheel as it was a good bit looser than 1" of play at the center of its run).  Got the wheel on with the help of a (heavy!) rubber hammer and sloshing lots of water & Palmolive dishwashing liquid on the cush rubber holes and the brake drum cush pins.  That helped!  And SO DID ALL OF YOU!  Many many thanks!  And many thanks to Kevin and the folks at CMW for putting up this forum--It's like having A REAL FULL COVERAGE MANUAL AND EXPERIENCED MECHANICS LOOKING OVER ONE'S SHOULDER WITH GREAT POINTERS.  IT WORKS! and it sure does help!