Author Topic: Enfiled C5 Sprag Issue? ...Or Something Else?  (Read 2017 times)

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TMunka

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on: April 06, 2013, 11:06:04 pm
Hello - I've been lurking the forums for a little while, new to posting. I have a 2011 Royal Enfield C5 with about 6300 miles and counting.

At around 6,000 miles, I noticed the bike occasionally experienced problems starting. I'd hit the start button and the engine would turn over for a second and then it'd make a buzzing noise and stop turning over. I'd hit the start button a second or third time and the engine would then turn over and start.

Sometimes, I'd turn the key and kill switch to their respective ON positions, hit the start button, and nothing would happen - no noise, no nothing. I'd then proceed to turn the switches OFF and then ON again and the bike would start.

A few times when attempting to start, I have hit the start button and heard a buzzing noise (buzz noise only, engine didn't turnover). I would proceed to put the bike in gear and wiggle it around a bit to de-stick the clutch. I'd hit the start button again and the bike would start.

My initial reaction to this whole ordeal was that the starter sprag clutch is at fault, but since my bike is a 2011 model, I think it may have the updated sprag if I'm not mistaken. I am now leaning towards the issue being the battery (still the original battery on the bike). What do you all think?


ace.cafe

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Reply #1 on: April 06, 2013, 11:08:51 pm
Those symptoms seem to me to be a starter solenoid issue, or could simply need to have the wiring connections cleaned, or battery terminals cleaned.

It could be deeper than that, but check the electrical stuff first, IMO.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #2 on: April 06, 2013, 11:13:22 pm
Weak battery maybe.

Scott


TMunka

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Reply #3 on: April 06, 2013, 11:39:37 pm
I should also mention I changed the oil a day ago and found no large metal shavings, metal chunks, broken gear teeth, etc. on the magnets or screen. This leads me to think the issue is either the sprag or electrical - not something more serious.

Where is the solenoid located on this bike? Is there a history of the solenoid causing starting issues on these machines? How long have some of your stock batteries lasted?


jartist

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Reply #4 on: April 06, 2013, 11:57:22 pm
Absolute first thing to do is put a good charge on the battery. A low battery will cause all those symptoms. Lots of trips less than 10-15 miles will drain the battery enough to show 12volts but a cold battery won't have enough juice to spin up the sprag enough.  I also just replaced a battery that showed 12.5volts but with the bike ignition on it only had 8.5 volts and wouldn't fire up the fuel pump.


Royalista

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Reply #5 on: April 07, 2013, 12:52:52 am
Stock battery is ok. Mine is in excellent state at 11,500 miles in under 2 years. Still at max level, not yet needed to add water.

The solenoid is situated left of the battery: it's that cylinder. Sometimes it can get sticky, time to replace.

If it is very cold do know that a battery is slower and the oil is thicker, making the starting difficult. It is very good practice not to have lights on when starting: if the lights have been set to come up when turning the ignition key undo that feature pronto.

All your descriptions point to something simple in the starting circuit (and eventually an easy quick fix, alas in review): a poor cable or connection, a low battery, then solenoid, startmotor.

Keep the faith. Solution is around the corner, as is the fine weather.  ;D
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Ice

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Reply #6 on: April 07, 2013, 04:48:57 am
 Sounds most like poor connections or low voltage or faulty starter solenoid in that order to me.
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Jack Leis

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Reply #7 on: April 07, 2013, 05:20:14 am
I agree with Ice.
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High On Octane

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Reply #8 on: April 07, 2013, 04:09:06 pm
^^^   I 3rd the above mentioned troubleshooting   ^^^

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barenekd

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Reply #9 on: April 08, 2013, 01:46:08 am
Normally, if you hear the solenoid clicking  and no  turnover, it is a low battery that doesn't have enough power to turn the starter. However, since yours is sporadic, I would start looking at wiring starting with the battery ground wire that seems to have a habit of breaking on C5s. The Wire ends have a bit of a habit of breaking, but you need t check carefully as they tend to break under the insulation so the fracture is hard to find. A quick check would be to hook a heavy wire (jumper cable) from the ground post of the battery to the frame and see if that takes care of the problem.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #10 on: April 08, 2013, 03:25:46 am
On these bikes I'd check the solenoid first.  It's under the left side of the seat.  They're not the greatest units, several people gave reported them going bad.  Mine died an early death.

Scott


whoguy

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Reply #11 on: April 08, 2013, 11:41:45 am
Hi OP,

I had the same thing happen to me... I managed to still start the bike with the same symptoms as yours for 3 years. Just last week, the sprag fully gave up the ghost and I bought a new sprag assembly, fitted it the next night and bike up running again.

The new assembly has the new beefier sprag clutch.

Looking back, the failure is cause by the weak stock battery. The new battery was installed and I've run a negative wire direct from the reg/rect and a positive wire too from the reg/rect (fused at both ends). Now my battery never measures under 12.5V. I would recommend this wire mod to every RE owner out there. It makes a huge difference to the charging circuit!!!!

Now the bike starts like brand new!!! Fires on the second stroke which is amazing!!!

I'm from Australia and the sprag assembly cost me $270.

Cheers guys

P.S.... my original sprag was toast... only had 3 teeth in the cage... the entire cage had 3 support struts left... the rest had shattered OFF!!! Oh yeah... and my main shaft bolt had completely undone itself and was sitting on the bottom of the engine.... luckily in a tucked out of the way place... or else... could have been real bad!!!

Stay safe guys... over and out
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