[Arizoni]

IMO, from an electrical contact point of view, soldering wiring terminals on is a good thing.

From a long lasting point of view, soldering can lead to failure of the wire at the connection.

Even if a rosin core solder is used as it should be for electrical connections, the solder keeps the individual strands in the multi strand wire from moving freely as the wire is bent or moved.  This can introduce unwanted stresses into the wire.
The solder also creates an exact place where the multi strand portion ends and the soldered "solid" place starts which concentrates the stress at that location.

Copper is one of the metals that hardens when it is bent and if this bending (like vibration causes) is repeated the wire can become brittle.
Rather than bending, brittle metal breaks.

I'm not saying this will happen to anyone's newly installed connector but it is something to keep in mind.

[gremlin]

Arizoni is spot-on.

The only thing I'd add is ....  Remember to grease the wire and lug before assembly.

[mattsz]

Arizoni is spot-on.

The only thing I'd add is ....  Remember to grease the wire and lug before assembly.

As in, apply grease to the wire before crimping the lug onto it?  If so, I wonder why?  Is it to keep corrosion from forming in the little spaces between the crimp and the wires?

[Ducati Scotty]

Coming in late but I hope not too late.

Get the NGK plug.  These bikes have a habit of not running well at idle with the stock Bosh plug.  They run fine when cold then run at low RPM and irregularly when warmed up.  Swapping in the NGK almost always sorts it out.

As to soldering the battery lugs, this is one place where I think it's a bad idea.  Solder is great for keepin a connection and preventing corrosion but the battery leads can get very hot when starting.  That solder can melt and drip on things.  I'd say a little grease and a good crimp is all you need.

Finally, if after you get the NGK plug it still seems a little off at idle it's easy to raise or lower the idle speed.  There is a large brass screw on top of the throttle body.  This is the air bypass screw.  It's tough to get to, you can remove the seat or loosen the clamp and rotate the throttle body a bit to get to it more easily.

The idle tends to be a bit low when new and gets a bit higher as things break in.

Scott

[Gypsyjon]

Arizoni is spot-on.

The only thing I'd add is ....  Remember to grease the wire and lug before assembly.

What kind of grease??  Plain old wheel bearing grease??

TIA

[gremlin]

What kind of grease??  Plain old wheel bearing grease??

TIA

actually, that will work.   But, if you want to do it "right" stop by your local electrical supply ( Graybar, Grainger ) and pick up some T&B crimping grease.  In a pinch you can also use that silicone "dielectric" contact grease or battery post grease from your local AutoZone....   

[Arizoni]

I can't say I would use grease in a crimped on connector though some do.

Most greases are non-conductive.  Especially "di-electric grease" which is actually an insulator. Although grease will protect the wire and connector from oxidation they can also decrease the amount of electricity that can pass thru the joint.

There are a couple of special greases that are made specifically to enhance conductivity while still protecting the area from oxidation.  One of these is called DeoxIT but I don't know if it really is worth bothering with.
Here's a link to some discussion about these special greases
http://www.intendedacceleration.com/html/tip_14.html

Just musing to myself here, I wonder how the silver grease used between the motherboard and the CPU (think Pentium) would work?
I know it's highly conductive but on the other hand that's when it's trapped between the CPU and the Motherboards mounting surface.  Silver being a highly reactive metal might find some sulfur dioxide floating around.  Especially if the rider enjoys Chili.

Anyway, if I was going to apply any grease to the joint I would do it after the cleaned wire was crimped into the connector.

[gremlin]

crimping displaces the grease and pushes it up inside the insulation thereby sealing the connection.  It does not form a barrier to conductivity.   In a former life I assembled large stored energy plants -48 vdc @ 2000 amperes with 72 hours of battery.  Every crimp, every connection, and every bus-bar was coated with no-ox grease.  I've seen the results of a "dry" crimp ....  not pretty, even only 6 months later.   Look closely inside your headlight bucket and you will see what I mean.

[RE-Memphis]

Any other suggestions? Or would someone like to buy this wonderful piece of 3rd world machinery that gives such pleasure to ride when it actually runs down the road? Seeing as it is only just a small matter to fix it...

Nah, I think you're having to much fun. I'll keep my current Thumper, and its identified quirks.

[High On Octane]

You should be able to buy the terminal lugs from the Best Buy audio department or from any local car audio shop.
Scottie

[Gypsyjon]

  I be darned...Amazon has all kinds of conductive grease and so does Radio Shack.

Thanks Gremlin.

[Gypsyjon]

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-09128-Copper-Anti-Seize-Lubricant/dp/B000HBM8HU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1364310640&sr=8-3&keywords=conductive+grease

[squire]

I understood that vasaline worked well for electrical connections.....non-acidic....conductor......protects from corrosion!! Not sure where I heard about it but it's always worked for me but then maybe I've just been lucky.

[1 Thump]

This spark plug thing has been known for a while now. I wonder why the factory is sticking with the crappy plug and also why dont dealers swap it for the correct one at setup. Its just amazing. Kevin ??

[JVS]

For me personally, I wouldn't complain about the spark plug. I don't even use the screwdriver to take it off. If you do it gently and carefully, it comes off with one hand. I use my left hand to cover the tank from underneath, and use the other one to pry/pull off the plug cap. Comes off easily, albeit with a little force. And no, it's not loose, always fits back with the 'zzzip'/click sound. 

edit
Sorry I thought you were referring to the plug cap. And I haven't had any drinks!
Yes, it will be a great idea to equip these bikes with an NGK plug from stock