[JVS]

As other members have suggested, it is most likely an electrical issue and you should check/adjust the following first -

- Replace OEM plug with NGK BPR6ES spark plug, or check for tightness of original spark plug.
- Disconnect sidestand switch (However, since I have got my RE, it has caused me no problems, and it is still connected)
- Check battery connections, especially the ground connection behind the battery. Also, battery electrolyte level (if it is the OEM battery)
- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) connection on the LH side of the bike.
- Connections in the fuse box.

[kammersangerin]

Hi Arizoni,

Its not that I don't have the know how, or even many of tools, its that I simply don't really have the time, or the patience. I need to do my taxes this weekend, not screw with a new bike that a sloppy dealer sold me. If I wanted a fiddler project I could have bought an 800$ CB350 Honda with all the same amount of power and saved myself lots of money. I bought new bikes from reputable dealers to avoid this right now. Now, this third one while not brand new, is still a 2012 without many miles, and I am still in the same spot.

I did the obvious, like check the fuses, battery connections, fuel line tightness, and I will check the spark plug, but a fouled spark plug is going to mean something bigger. I have no idea how to check the TPS sensor because I don't have a manual for resistances checks,  nor should something like that be DOA on a bike that' s 5 months old.

I have seen some wild things in EFI in my time - I have worked on it for 20 years on Volvos and BMWs - and this just shrieks of a deep fault tracing problem that someone just wanted to dump on someone else.

I don't really care about the fender being a little bit out of wack, but its so far its can actually rub the tyre.

[Desi Bike]

Check the plug first... Its pretty simple task. If the bike has been sitting at a dealer idling or subjected to short "round the block" rides for a while with test drivers it will carbon up as the plug doesnt have time to reach a reasonable operating temperature to burn off the carbon. Pretty common on carbed and efi vehicles. The spark plug check should take 5 minutes out of your enjoyment of doing taxes. 

Take the tool kit out of the side box, insert the screwdriver under one of the ears of the plug cap, and lift / pry it off. Take the plug wrench (the metal tubey thing) from the tool kit and slip it over the plug. Using the screw driver handle in the hole on the side of the plug wrench, turn the plug wrench counter-clock wise to remove the plug.

 Look at the plug.

 Is it blackened?

Did the previous owner leave the cap on the wire end of the plug? The wire end of the plug, the one that does not go in the engine, should have a small threaded tip on it.

 Take your new plug, an NGK BPR6ES, and using the pair of pliers from your bike's tool kit, clamp onto the wire end of the plug and twist counter clockwise to remove the metal cap covering the threads. Toss the cap thingy away, you don't need it. If removing the cap thingy is not done, the spark plug wire will not make a proper contact with the plug and will run like crap, if at all.

Put the new plug in the hole on the engine, hand thread and hand tighten it until it is snug. Then a quarter turn with the wrench. Push on the wire until you hear the connector 'zzzzip' as it clamps over the threads on the spark plug.

Put your tools back into the tool roll and put it back in the bike.

Test ride the bike, but not a slow round the block ride or you will end up fouling the plug and end up where you are now. Go for a mile or so to warm it up.

What kills spark plugs is having the bike idle while 'warming it up' for anything over a minute or so. Five minutes of idling may seem like you are doing good for the bike, but really its worse than cold starting the bike and riding off.

[kammersangerin]

Yes Desi, you have caught me. I fully admit that tax time is my fav time of year, and I can't wait to get to it.  Especially as it involves income from multiple countries and all kinds of tax rules about what where and how you pay what......

I think I am good to go on understanding how to replace the spark plug, and what I should see and I did manage to find the toolkit  I just can't get there until the parts store opens and I get a few other things done. I was glad that Bare told me the plug is just a bit of a force oriented move with a screw driver. We all learn the hard way at some point when we snap the stud on the head that the force move wasn't it.

Regardless, I immensely appreciate all the time everyone has spent giving me options - however unpalatable they might be - while I grinch away on what has truly been a bad run of luck.

[RE-Memphis]

Me thinks that with a little bit of blood, sweat, and tears now you'll actually come to find a fun "leg over and ride" bike hidden inside that run of bad luck of yours.

I was lucky; the dealer I purchased mine from is a true grease-monkey who also makes it a point to put some miles on his bikes before selling them. So the majority of my break in (and broken bits) was already tackled before I got to her.

That being said, I still put in about an hour a week of just "little stuff" to keep "Thumper" going.

I'm mindful that I bought an old frame design and a new engine from the developing world. Expecting the worst, I'm pretty happy all in all.

To echo the thoughts of others, the side stand switch is easy. Quick disconnect halfway up the frame near the battery box. I took the actual switch off also (two hex head screws) and tossed this in the "spares box". (Be mindful to pick up your kick if you do this

 I also have done a thorough electrical walk through and tightened up a few worry spots. I keep a spare batter cable on hand because of all the comments about snapped terminal ends.

The paint (mines the Military) does like to rub at spots. After wet days I'm pretty rigorous about finding rust spots and dealing with them.

I put in a NGK spark. Remember to take the screw on cap off of it as you don't need it with the Enfield wire.

I did "reconnect" my headlight off switch. If I'm idling the bike for maintenance or letting it warm I don't see the need for headlights.

My only significant modification was to build my own air box and filter out of PVC. I replaced the small oval toolbox and got the big toolbox back for gloves, spare tubes, more tools, and the stuff I think I ought have handy.

I also put on some old school Triumph indicators but that was purely aesthetic. The stock is just fine.

Future: I plan on a 7" headlight and possibly new shocks. Definatly a new echaust to get rid of the telephone pole strapped to the side of the bike. (Again, the look of it – nothing actually wrong there)

Overall I'm very positive about this bike. I commute about 200 miles a week on both city and rural roads in all kinds of weather. I haven't had an on the road problem yet. The fuel economy is fantastic.

Best of all is the constant commentary from strangers. It's certainly a distinctive look.

So hopefully everyone’s managed to "positive" you on your bad luck, and here's to your thumper being on the road soon!

Cheers,
Ijpe

[Craig McClure]

Hi Kammersangerin, I can help with the rear fender problem: I have a brand new never used set of black rear fender braces & bolts to fit your bike, I would sell for $45. including shipping.
  I have never owned a used motorcycle that did not require some tweaking to bring it to my standard, Even a few new ones. The good news is machinery can always be made to work properly. Just requires some thought, research, & patience.  Hang in there.  Best wishes, Craig McClure (2010 G5 Deluxe)

[kammersangerin]

Undoing the kick stand switch did nothing. The bike lopes and backfires even at idle once warmed up. Sounds a lot like an Air Mass meter or oxygen sensor sort of thing.

[kammersangerin]

I removed said plug and yes it was highly carboned with no sign of anything like the colour brown or grey. I replaced ith with the BPR6EIX. The bike will now not start at all unless I hold open the throttle. Is this actually an improvement for a spark plug? It hs a tiny needle point on it and I have no iea what the gap is supposed to be. The idiotic tool RE includes does not fit very well and while I hand screwed it in and the threads appeared to have not been damaged, its very hard to tell if the fit is snug without over gihtening. My professiona grade snap on will not fit in at the angle you have to go.

 Attempting to use the not so brilliant method of prying with a screw driver now has the metal boot bending which is asking for more trouble. So I will get one of my super long screw drives to pry gently from underneath of the tank on the right angle.

Any other suggestions? Or would someone like to buy this wonderful piece of 3rd world machinery that gives such pleasure to ride when it actually runs down the road? Seeing as it is only just a small matter to fix it...

[kammersangerin]

OK it's running now. I managed to get my socket in and remove the plug, and tighten it correctly. The plug was wet and completely black on one side, so it was throwing fuel at it. I cleaned it. To get it started I had to actually engage the throttle, which is not a good way to do it. Are you supposed to use the little choke switch in stead? The manual said using that only after it started. Maybe I am a dunce and did it wrong.

So far it is running evenly but I can't take it out as the snow finally caught up and started covering the roads. Up until an hour ago it was fine. Snow only sticking on the grass.

[Arizoni]

The "choke" or "manual bi starter" as they call it in the book gives a slight increase in RPM when the throttle is left closed.  It seems to be somewhat useful at temperatures below 40 degrees F.

My method of using it is to apply it before I press the starter button rather than  waiting for the engine to start.  This seems to provide almost instant starting even after the bike has sit outside overnight with the air temperature below freezing.

You mentioned the tiny electrode on your new spark plug in another post. 
That is typical of the rare metal plugs and they are not meant to have their gaps adjusted.

[b.sheets]

as far as replacing the battery terminal lugs with nice copper ones....

is the battery wiring 8 guage or 6?
and will any nice copper lug do the trick?
any stores(autozone, etc.) or brands to stay away from?

I would prefer the nice deka copper lugs that I have seen before but can't find what store sells them.
thanks.

[JVS]

I'm glad it is running now. Always tighten the spark plug  Some of our REs require a little blip of the throttle if you use the electric start. However, I have been using the kickstart 99.1% of the time - always starts on the first kick without any throttle input (regardless of weather and if you go past TDC)

[b.sheets]

as far as replacing the battery terminal lugs with nice copper ones....

is the battery wiring 8 guage or 6?
and will any nice copper lug do the trick?
any stores(autozone, etc.) or brands to stay away from?

I would prefer the nice deka copper lugs that I have seen before but can't find what store sells them.
thanks.

I realize this might sound like a dumb question but this bucking and surging sh*t has go to go and I never want to experience it again.

[motorat]

i got some at the local napa auto parts.
i think it is 8guage but i just used enough solder to fill in any gaps

[b.sheets]

thanks! no napa around here but i'll order online through them if I have to.