Author Topic: 90w transmission without sealed bearing?  (Read 11731 times)

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mrrstr

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Reply #15 on: March 17, 2013, 05:38:02 pm
Is there a quick way to tell if the P.O. did the bearing already? I'd feel pretty dumb if I got the kit and it turned out it was done. 
I ask because the stuff in the box came out as a thick liquid, not as a grease...


solg

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Reply #16 on: March 17, 2013, 07:53:53 pm
Well that's good news for me! So did the 5-speeds tool out with grease or 90w?

I have 90wt in mine
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single

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Reply #17 on: March 17, 2013, 08:41:49 pm
I have been running 90wt in Jolly,1999 model,with no leaks,for 3 yrs.I did put a "breather" in the filler plug.Just sayin'.Don't mean nuthin'.


Blltrdr

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Reply #18 on: March 17, 2013, 09:41:44 pm
Is there a quick way to tell if the P.O. did the bearing already? I'd feel pretty dumb if I got the kit and it turned out it was done. 
I ask because the stuff in the box came out as a thick liquid, not as a grease...

Remove outer cover and remove bearing cap on inner cover. You will see a seal on the bearing instead of the exposed balls in the cage.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


mrrstr

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Reply #19 on: March 18, 2013, 12:24:52 am
Thanks.  Turns out, it's not sealed.  This bike is nice to work on, though  :)


Blltrdr

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Reply #20 on: March 18, 2013, 05:37:38 am
Installing the small sealed main shaft bearing takes about 1-2 hrs. Hitchcock's sells a kit that has you replace the big main shaft bearing also, but I didn't notice any oil leakage with just the replacement of the small bearing in the inner cover. If you replace the bearing you should also drill a vent in the filler as recommended by Pete Snidal. If you have a left shift you should convert to a right shift while doing the bearing mod. These mods will have a great effect on shifting performance of your gearbox, restoring it to it's original design and giving it a much needed update for use of a readily available gearbox lubricant.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


mrrstr

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Reply #21 on: March 18, 2013, 10:23:36 am
What page in Pete's book goes over this stuff?  He says "see chapter 9" but then I couldn't find anything specific in chapter 9.  A page number/heading name would be a big help.


Blltrdr

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Reply #22 on: March 18, 2013, 02:21:33 pm
What page in Pete's book goes over this stuff?  He says "see chapter 9" but then I couldn't find anything specific in chapter 9.  A page number/heading name would be a big help.

Chapter 9, Page 124. The gearbox (installing the right shift conversion kit).
« Last Edit: March 18, 2013, 02:25:18 pm by Blltrdr »
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
2009 HD FLHT Police 103 6 spd
1992 Kawasaki ZG 1200 Voyager XII


mrrstr

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Reply #23 on: March 18, 2013, 05:56:10 pm
Thank you, that was extremely helpful.  I probably am going to go for the RHS shifter too.  This is turning into one of those bottomless projects very quickly...


mrrstr

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Reply #24 on: March 19, 2013, 12:27:01 pm
So the manual says use a 6303 ZZ.  I found this:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#6303-ball-bearings/=ly17ww
for a little more than $11.  But, there's an extra bearing, some seals and o-rings in the kit.  But, the kit is $75.  Do I need both bearings? The seals? The o-rings?  Or can I just buy the 6303 from McMaster and call it a day?
I'm not trying to cheep out on a good supplier, but it is a heck of a markup for some bearings and o-rings, and I already need to buy that RHS shift kit, which is setting me back about what I'm comfortable with as it is.


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #25 on: March 19, 2013, 06:42:11 pm
If I can jump in this tread and answer your question, it depends upon where your leak is coming from.  If the leak is from the un-sealed 6303, then all you need is a 6303 ZZ which includes the seals for that bearing.  However, if your leak is from around the kick starter shaft, you will need the O-ring that fits around the kick start shaft, .......and if your leak is coming from the final drive shaft between the spocket and the gearbox, you need to know if the final drive shaft bearing has the seals in place.  If not, you would need those seals, as well as a small O-ring  on the sprocket side of the final drive shaft.

If I were to do this again, I would also add an oil thrower ring (thin washer) on the inside of the final drive shaft.  I don't believe they install these thrower rings on the modern gearbox but I have seen some old diagrams from the 1950's (before oil seals were common) that show an oil thrower on both ends of the main shaft.


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #26 on: March 19, 2013, 10:16:08 pm
IMHO I like to use the 00 grease that is receomended. I use the synthetic stuff so that it does not harden inside like the factory grease does http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/maintenance-repair/4-speed-gear-box-grease.html  Now...... many people swear that the 90 weight works better, shifts smoother, give you better fuel economy, keeps your tyres inflated better, cuts down wind resistance etc.
I don't really know, kind of a Ford Chevy thing. The grease works great in my 4 speed and did not have to tear down the tranny, but extra parts etc. However if you are set on it......
http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/maintenance-repair/transmission/sealed-baring-kit.html
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Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


High On Octane

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Reply #27 on: March 19, 2013, 10:27:14 pm
Is this bearing the same reason my 700cc twin leaks from the primary side?  If so do I need to repack this bearing with grease?
Scottie
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Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #28 on: March 20, 2013, 03:22:58 pm
the basic issue is that the output bearing has a felt seal and they do not work well against oil - at least that is the case with the Indian built RE. My guess is that the Albion gearbox was always built that way.
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Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


mrrstr

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Reply #29 on: March 20, 2013, 05:44:43 pm
So, nfieldgear doesn't have any RHS shift conversions in stock.  So for now, how do I refill my transmission?  Do I just squirt some grease in and add 90w to it?   :-\