Author Topic: Which oil to use in C5?  (Read 10997 times)

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atzelaner

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on: March 06, 2013, 02:39:51 pm
Does anyone have suggestions on a good engine oil to use in the C5? My owners owners manual recommends 15W50. I found Motul 300V 4T Full Synthetic Double Ester Motor Oil 15W50 and wanted to use it. Any comments or recommendations are welcomed. Thanks


gremlin

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Reply #1 on: March 06, 2013, 02:45:20 pm
prepare for an opinion stampede......
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atzelaner

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Reply #2 on: March 06, 2013, 02:47:41 pm
Ok...thanks...I am bracing myself  ;)


Jack Leis

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Reply #3 on: March 06, 2013, 03:46:29 pm
Now that your braced, IMHO , go with the Motul. That is what Ive used for 18k+ and works well. Very happy with the stuff. I am Prepared now for the s^#t storm.
I would much rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow    Jack


mattsz

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Reply #4 on: March 06, 2013, 03:52:56 pm
And, Jack put all those miles on his bike in about a week, so it's probably behaving itself well for him!


Jack Leis

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Reply #5 on: March 06, 2013, 03:54:47 pm
WTF ?
I would much rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow    Jack


eda1bulletc5

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Reply #6 on: March 06, 2013, 04:06:00 pm
I have only been using Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50; around 11500 miles
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_V-Twin_20W-50.aspx

My understanding is any motorcycle specific oil should be fine for these engines; I have hear semi-synthetic oil is also good - my local mechanic prefers spectro golden 20w50

I just go with Mobil 1; available at wal-mart and lasts for 3000 miles; worked good so far
2011 RE C5 (@25K + miles)
2012 Honda NC700X 6-speed (sold @26K miles)
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gremlin

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Reply #7 on: March 06, 2013, 04:25:51 pm
And, Jack put all those miles on his bike in about a week, so it's probably behaving itself well for him!

I agree - Jack rides alot.  His oil has different demands on it.   My oil (otoh) sits in the engine and stratifies for long periods of time between "stirring"
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motorat

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Reply #8 on: March 06, 2013, 05:33:55 pm
I have only been using Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50; around 11500 miles
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_V-Twin_20W-50.aspx

My understanding is any motorcycle specific oil should be fine for these engines; I have hear semi-synthetic oil is also good - my local mechanic prefers spectro golden 20w50

I just go with Mobil 1; available at wal-mart and lasts for 3000 miles; worked good so far

me too.
i change it every 2000 miles as the re only has about 2quarts in it. i use the mobil 1 10-40 racing in my other bike.
in the past few years and over 100k on various motorcycles i have never had an issue using mobil 1 and will continue to use it.
i also use it (the automotive kind) in my truck.
Joe
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mattsz

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Reply #9 on: March 06, 2013, 05:48:40 pm
Sorry, Jack - didn't mean to freak you out!  A lame joke, and pronoun trouble.

Translation: Jack has put a lot of miles on his bike in a relatively short period of time, and the oil he uses seems to be up to the challenge...


Gypsyjon

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Reply #10 on: March 06, 2013, 05:55:47 pm
This is not my data, but interesting, nonetheless:

There are several types of sythetic the base stock is what differentates them.

The best base stock is Polyol-ester (Redline & Motul)

Next best Di-ester (Royal Purple, Amsoil, Neo)

Next is polyolefin polyamine (Mobil 1)

Hydrocracked (Syntec, Valvoline)

Finally regular dyno oils


gremlin

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Reply #11 on: March 06, 2013, 07:08:54 pm
These UCE engines were designed for riding on the Indian sub-continent in relatively horrible weather conditions with questionable access to even more questionable supplies .....

I've done some testing & oil analysis (look back through my topics)  and I can provide the following well reasoned experience.

1st ...  the additives matter - ALOT.   Have you ever looked after adding oil to your engine and seen what looks like a tiny bit of "sludge" or "ash" left over in the bottom of the bottle ...  kinda like some solids that fell out of suspension ?   SHAKE OIL BEFORE OPENING - especially if it has been sitting around on the store shelf for awhile.

2nd ...  the amount of "wear metals" detected in used oil is inversely proportional to the amount of Sodium, Zinc, Moly, and other metallic additives in the oil you choose to run.

3rd ...  the viscosity of the oil will decline as it gets chewed up in the gears - change your oil frequently.

finally, and this is just an opinion - not an observation - diesel oil like Shell Rotella is more than adequate for these engines in the North American environment.
1996 Trophy 1200
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #12 on: March 06, 2013, 07:20:26 pm
Have you ever looked after adding oil to your engine and seen what looks like a tiny bit of "sludge" or "ash" left over in the bottom of the bottle ...  kinda like some solids that fell out of suspension ?   SHAKE OIL BEFORE OPENING - especially if it has been sitting around on the store shelf for awhile.

Good tip!  Also, diesel oil has many of the same additives that moto oil has, the same things that have been minimized in auto oils.  It's a great alterntaive if moto oil isn't available.

Scott


sparklow

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Reply #13 on: March 06, 2013, 08:25:47 pm
Shell Rotella 15W-40, which is approved for wet clutch use, is all I have ever run in my Yamaha XS650. I would have to think that it would probably be fine in the RE also.
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Rich Mintz

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Reply #14 on: March 06, 2013, 10:36:33 pm
I appreciate this thread, thank you all. For newbies like me, the current issue of "Motorcycle Cruiser" magazine had a very complete article on oil, including a description of what makes synthetic oil different from the "regular" kind and why it makes a difference in motorcycles.
Rich Mintz - New York City
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JVS

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Reply #15 on: March 06, 2013, 10:59:21 pm
After the 3500mi mark, I've been using the Motul 300V 4T 15W-50 full synthetic and it's running well. (On my B5)
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Royalista

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Reply #16 on: March 07, 2013, 12:26:25 am
E5 here, using Motul 5100 (ester) 4T  15W-50
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e7grunt

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Reply #17 on: March 07, 2013, 02:06:39 am
Not to high jack this thread, but where do you guys get your oil filters? Is there a napa or other oil filter that works or do you have to go to a enfield dealer? Thank you.
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #18 on: March 07, 2013, 02:11:05 am
Filters are an Enfield only part. 

Scott


Gypsyjon

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Reply #19 on: March 07, 2013, 02:43:27 am
These UCE engines were designed for riding on the Indian sub-continent in relatively horrible weather conditions with questionable access to even more questionable supplies .....

I've done some testing & oil analysis (look back through my topics)  and I can provide the following well reasoned experience.

1st ...  the additives matter - ALOT.   Have you ever looked after adding oil to your engine and seen what looks like a tiny bit of "sludge" or "ash" left over in the bottom of the bottle ...  kinda like some solids that fell out of suspension ?   SHAKE OIL BEFORE OPENING - especially if it has been sitting around on the store shelf for awhile.

2nd ...  the amount of "wear metals" detected in used oil is inversely proportional to the amount of Sodium, Zinc, Moly, and other metallic additives in the oil you choose to run.

3rd ...  the viscosity of the oil will decline as it gets chewed up in the gears - change your oil frequently.

finally, and this is just an opinion - not an observation - diesel oil like Shell Rotella is more than adequate for these engines in the North American environment.

When I was running my tugboat, Rotella was the ONLY oil to use. Good stuff.


Tri750

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Reply #20 on: March 07, 2013, 02:49:37 am
But a new person needs to know that the importer (CMW) says full Syn. RE (i dont have my book at home) says semi-syn I think in 15w50 . Most bottles such as Amsoil-Redline say that their 20w50 is interchangable with 15w50. What they do in India or what your or my opinion is isn't what the manual says. Let each person decide from there.
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mattsz

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Reply #21 on: March 07, 2013, 11:00:52 am
There is a common opinion that says for breaking in an engine such as ours, synthetics should not be used - dino only for however many miles.

I'm just saying...  I have no experience whatsoever, and no opinion about it.  My bike was delivered with dino oil, but it's running full synthetic now at 1800 miles (well, it would be if it was running, and not under a bedsheet waiting for spring..)


gremlin

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Reply #22 on: March 07, 2013, 01:37:53 pm
................. where do you guys get your oil filters? ..................

::eBay::  search for --> bulletwalla
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gremlin

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Reply #23 on: March 07, 2013, 02:02:13 pm
.............What they do in India or what your or my opinion is isn't what the manual says. .......

Who's Mr. Grumpy then ?
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #24 on: March 07, 2013, 03:32:21 pm
Forgot Bulletwa. Thx.


Tri750

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Reply #25 on: March 07, 2013, 03:50:22 pm
Who's Mr. Grumpy then ?

Me? I'm only the one who may have to make the call to CMW to ask for warranty work on an engine that has been running on Rotella or Kmart Fouxthetic or whatever will save someone 3 or 4 dollars per quart on a 1.5 qt. oil change.  As long as a new person has the correct answer once, then he can do what he chooses.
Oil discussions. I know better.
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Marrtyn

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Reply #26 on: March 07, 2013, 05:48:00 pm
I have been, mistakenly, using Silkolene 15-50 fully-synthetic, in my G5. My handbook says to use semi-synthetic. I have also been told (from a reliable source) that there is absolutely no need to use fully-synthetic. Costs more. So.... I am about to change to Silkolene semi-synthetic,(as the good book says), 20-50. Also been advised to do an oil flush.


barenekd

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Reply #27 on: March 07, 2013, 08:10:56 pm
I used semi synthetic for about 1000 miles (Castrol), then switched to Mobil V-Twin. On the last oil change at 14,000 miles (4,000 miles since the previous change) the bike used less than 1/2 pint of oil.
I'll do the same on my next Enfield.
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TWinOKC

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Reply #28 on: March 07, 2013, 08:23:23 pm
As discussed before.  It only costs an extra $10 per oil change (or less) to use full synthetic.

Cheap insurance.

Semi synthetic is probably just fine too.  Whatever makes you sleep good.   ;)
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Arizoni

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Reply #29 on: March 07, 2013, 10:39:59 pm
Marrtyn
For what it's worth, I totally disagree with anyone who suggests that a "oil flush" is needed for your bike.
This is especially true if the "flush" involves putting anything other than the correct engine oil into the engine and it is even more true with a Royal Enfield.
These special flushing fluids will find nothing to remove in a low mileage engine and what's worse, on a Royal Enfield, some of the stuff will remain in the crankcase/oil sump where it will pollute your new high quality oil.

Your new semi-synthetic oil will be totally compatible with your existing oil so flushing is not needed.

If you are going to change oils then just do it.  If you really want to "flush" your engine then buy twice the amount of your new oil.  Replace the old oil with the new oil.  Run the bike for 100 miles and then drain and refill with the remaining new oil.
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Gypsyjon

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Reply #30 on: March 07, 2013, 10:45:25 pm
Nfieldgear sells a kit with 5 filters and all the o rings needed. Pretty handy.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #31 on: March 07, 2013, 11:09:30 pm
+1.


BRADEY

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Reply #32 on: March 09, 2013, 10:44:40 am
Is it true that fully synthetic oils such as Motul 300v factory line 15w50,
have twice or thrice the drainage period, in comparision to mineral oils ??
If that is the case, then the extra cost should not be deterrent.
Would appreciate practical advice on oil change period of synthetic oils. Thank you all and Mr. Moderator :)


barenekd

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Reply #33 on: March 09, 2013, 05:45:39 pm
When synthetic oils first came out back in the '60s, the original idea was not to ever have to change it. Just change filters every few thousand miles. The molecules in synthetic oil don't tear apart and wear out like mineral oil. However someone seems to have forgotten the other contaminants that collect is oil that filters have nothing to do with, like water, gasoline, etc.
So, presumably you can run synthetics longer, but the other stuff can still eat away at your engine, so it's not advisable. 
You buy synthetic oil because it's marginally better than syn/mineral mixes, but either of them in the motorcycle blend are quite adequate. 
Be sure to get a motorcycle blend or some truck oil like Shell Rotella is good. Do not put automobile oil in a bike!
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BRADEY

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Reply #34 on: March 10, 2013, 05:31:49 am
bare thanks for the details.
the question is when should one
change a fully synthetic oil on a moto.
I have read reviews on Amazon, where
people have shared that even after
5000 to 7000 miles the oil looked like new.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #35 on: March 10, 2013, 11:25:47 am
If you're really curious you can send samples in to be tested periodically, then you'll know when it's time to change it.

Scott


barenekd

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Reply #36 on: March 10, 2013, 08:12:07 pm
If you put synthetic or any other oil in an RE after a normal oil change, it will look dirty in 100 miles or less!. They don't drain the original very completely!
If you have the drain plug under the crankshaft, be sure to use it!
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Marrtyn

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Reply #37 on: March 12, 2013, 09:20:04 am
Thanks Arizoni (and everyone else) for your replies. Your suggestion sounds good to me. I did have concerns about the small quantity of oil remaining after draining,and what effect in may have on any new oil.