Author Topic: Getting the Mikcarb enricher to work  (Read 2581 times)

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jedaks

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on: February 12, 2013, 07:15:50 pm
I only need to use the enricher on cold mornings and then only for a few seconds. Otherwise the bike always starts first or second kick with no touch of the throttle. Using the enricher will kill the engine.

I took out the 27.5 jet and put in a 25 and tuned and retuned using the air screw and throttle stop screw. No matter what I did I couldn't get the bike to start using the enricher.

Part of me says "if it's not broke don't fix it...the bike is a reliable and easy starter" The other part says "listen to the knowledge of experienced tuners".

Should there be any need to go to a smaller jet than a 25? Should I really even worry about it?


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #1 on: February 13, 2013, 02:05:05 am
The question depends upon several factors, if you must get to work on time, a reliable starter is essential.  If on the other hand, you ride only for pleasure, you have more latitude in getting the tuning perfect for long hot rides.  do you enjoy fiddling with the bike, or is it a chore to adjust?  The VM carb is labor intensive and will  need to be adjusted frequently if weather changes from warm to cold, elevation changes from high to low etc.  If you find these adjust ments to be a chore, a CV carb may be a better fit for your needs. 

It all depends upon the Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.


tooseevee

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Reply #2 on: February 13, 2013, 05:33:31 pm

It all depends upon the Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.

    Haven't heard this book mentioned in a long time (I personally think the guy was a self-centered, arrogant prick, but that's neither here nor there, I guess).

      Are you also a student of Tolkien by any chance?
     
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


mrunderhill1975a

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Reply #3 on: February 13, 2013, 11:40:27 pm
How did you know??????


tooseevee

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Reply #4 on: February 14, 2013, 12:38:51 am
How did you know??????

          I'm Sye Kick  ;)  + a little deductive logic.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


AgentX

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Reply #5 on: February 14, 2013, 01:14:04 am
Had the same issue, and in India at least, no one has a smaller pilot jet.  (Nor do mikarb and mikuni VM24 pilots interchange, from what I've read.)

I lowered the float level significantly, and it's helped.  Am at 2.5 turns out and seemingly behaving near-normal.  I think I'm 30mm off the deck of the carb body to the top of the float, measuring without gasket, right now.  Would like to drop another mm or two but am worried about messing up the overall function of the carb if it gets too low.


jedaks

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Reply #6 on: February 14, 2013, 11:00:36 pm
Thanks for the help.

I lowered the float level from 25mm to 22mm, so hopefully that will have a good result.


AgentX

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Reply #7 on: February 15, 2013, 01:49:23 am
If you're holding the carb upside down with the float at rest, and measuring from the deck to the top of the float, you want to increase that distance to lower the float level when the carb is oriented for installation and running.

So if you were at 25mm you might want to take it to 28mm.


jedaks

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Reply #8 on: February 15, 2013, 03:07:26 am
ugh-oh...

I had it side down and measured from the rim (where the gasket sits but without the gasket) to the top of the float.

So turning the carb upside down and letting the float dangle is the proper way to measure it?


AgentX

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Reply #9 on: February 15, 2013, 03:35:04 am
Yeah, you let the float hang down; in this position, it has fully closed off the float needle. 

So now, think of it when it's right-side-up...it's in the highest position it will ever reach when it's floating in the bowl.  That's your float level.

So when it's upside-down, bending the floats to sit lower as you see it will raise the level of the fuel required to shut off the needle...making them sit highter will lower the level of the fuel required to shut off the needle.

Lower level=leaner.

I think I made the same mistake the first time...


Arizoni

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Reply #10 on: February 15, 2013, 04:10:15 am
Thinking of it another way that doesn't require right side up or upside down, the closer the float is to the lid when its closed, the closer to the lid the fuel will be when it shuts off.

If the float is adjusted so it is further from the lid when the valve is closed, the fuel will also be further from the lid when the valve closes.
Jim
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1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


AgentX

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Reply #11 on: February 15, 2013, 04:47:45 am
Or, to cut away the complication entirely: it's upside down!  So in that position, everything is reversed.