Author Topic: Clutch basket advice on bullet 500  (Read 7950 times)

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wernwilk

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Reply #15 on: February 04, 2013, 06:54:21 pm
Just realised on writing this that another gasket would make the problem worse.....darn...if I were to do away with the gasket would there be any problems.....would this allow the oil to escape at the case around the crankshaft?


baird4444

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Reply #16 on: February 04, 2013, 07:11:11 pm
the gasket is just paper thin....  a thin layer of the rtv should work as well.
I was thinking that no gasket would pull the case closer possibly swinging
the lh clutch side out just a little to foul in the basket.
   in looking back at some pics, is the seal for the rear shaft mounted on
the inside with the nuts on the backside??
      I'm guessing here....
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 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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wernwilk

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Reply #17 on: February 04, 2013, 08:22:30 pm
OOOPs, just realized that if i added another gasket it would make the problem worse....what would be the downside to not having the gasket there at all?

Is it for anything other than dirt and grime?  Does it act to stop leaking oil from the primary case at all?


wernwilk

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Reply #18 on: February 04, 2013, 09:52:38 pm
yes exactly, the seal is mounted with bolts as shown in your picture....I will try and dry fit without the gasket to see if this stops the fouling....if it does i could use the rtv in place of the gasket.
I will report back.
(sorry i posted twice on this before, my internet went down and i thought it had not gone through the first time).

Thanks.


wernwilk

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Reply #19 on: February 05, 2013, 06:44:38 am
I tried the case without the gasket, and although it's much better with the case sitting a lot flusher with the crankcase behind, I am still getting the basket rubbing the seal mounting bolts behind.

It's ok until I finally tighten the basket down using a bar and clutch basket holding nut.

I cannot see what else to do here but buy a new basket and try it.....unless any one else has any more thoughts?


baird4444

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Reply #20 on: February 05, 2013, 07:34:51 am
well if it's just rubbing on the heads of those mounting bolts; I wouldn't be
opposed to grinding about 1/2 the thickness of those heads off. Hell, all they hold
is that seal's mounting plate- it's not like you're going to twist the head off...
    there I go again, thinking outloud....
'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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RGT

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Reply #21 on: February 05, 2013, 02:47:24 pm
are those bolt heads 1/2 height to begin with with no washers under them? I am trying to remember from when I took mine apart and put it back together but can't seem to locate the pic's I took....


wernwilk

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Reply #22 on: February 05, 2013, 07:26:57 pm
Yes they are at most 1/2 thickness heads....no washers I believe either....it must be pretty close in there as its free as a bird when snugged up but once a decent amount of torque is applied to the center nut it starts to catch.......so close to being ok yet so annoying.


Blltrdr

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Reply #23 on: February 05, 2013, 10:53:07 pm
It doesn't make much sense. The center hub must be seated further back on the spline than it was designed to go. So installing my spare center hub and basket on my spare gear box in the garage I see that when fully seated the front face of the hub is flush with the end of the spline where the threads meet the spline. If your hub sits further back and the splines protrude then I would think your problem is the hub. If it does fit flush then your problem would probably be the fitment of the inner case. Like I stated, this doesn't make much sense. It might if the original hub was replaced with a factory second or some hub that is not genuine RE.

I'm sure you will figure this out quickly and remedy the situation.
Good Luck.

Brad
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wernwilk

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Reply #24 on: February 06, 2013, 12:49:55 am


yup the basket sits a little back from flush which led me to believe someone has abused it in the past...from looking at the basket and center nut it looks like an impact driver has been used and as a result has damaged the inner splines on the basket that act as a stop when the basket is fully seated on the shaft...


cafeman

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Reply #25 on: February 06, 2013, 02:56:48 pm
I just had my clutch apart to replace the primary chain and noticed the seal retainer bolts have thin heads. From what your describing, like others have stated, it sounds like the splines on the backside of the hub have been almost "swagged" or deformed so that the hub now goes further onto the shaft than it's supposed to. Maybe some creative machinist could come up with some sort of spacer to fit on the shaft, properly positioning the hub as well as not fouling the seal...but I'd think sourcing another hub would be the best bet, and not too expensive.


RGT

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Reply #26 on: February 06, 2013, 05:45:31 pm
I might be tempted to flip it over and  center punch the center of the male spline feature to expand it a little, thus closing the female spline feature a bit, it won't take much so go gently and check the results often...you could also try a little on the circumference of the female spline feature...


wernwilk

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Reply #27 on: February 07, 2013, 05:51:45 pm
Ok so an update.

I took the bolts out for the main shaft seal mountung plate and gently took a few mm of each..it rally didnt take much but bingo, once the basket was correctly tightened down there was clearance..so one problem down.

On reassembly I was tightening the primary chain tensioner mounting bolt when....ping, out came the threads from the case!!!

I honestly have to laugh as otherwise I would cry....if its not one thing its another.

So, my next question......does anyone think I could helicoil this hole succesfully....has anyone had to do this before...
I do not have a helicoil kit as present but would buy a good one for such emergencies....would anyone have any recommendations?



baird4444

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Reply #28 on: February 09, 2013, 03:35:13 pm
Ok so an update.
I took the bolts out for the main shaft seal mountung plate and gently took a few mm of each..it rally didnt take much but bingo, once the basket was correctly tightened down there was clearance..so one problem down.
On reassembly I was tightening the primary chain tensioner mounting bolt when....ping, out came the threads from the case!!!
I honestly have to laugh as otherwise I would cry....if its not one thing its another.
So, my next question......does anyone think I could helicoil this hole succesfully....has anyone had to do this before...
I do not have a helicoil kit as present but would buy a good one for such emergencies....would anyone have any recommendations?

  it's official, you are now An Enfield Mechanic!!
     trying to remember...   that bolt is in the black "slipper" that slides off that bolt, right?
seems like it would be easy to remove and either retap to the next size OR cleanup
real well and use one of the aftermarket "formathread" products.
 this bolt just sits there...  I would put a lock washer tween the locknut and tensioner.
   I have also heard of a few cobbing up a spring tensioner using a valve spring, maybe
doing away with the needs of good threads....
        - Mike
« Last Edit: February 09, 2013, 03:41:37 pm by baird4444 »
'My dear you are ugly,
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Ragmas

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Reply #29 on: February 09, 2013, 11:07:57 pm
Why hasn't anybody gotten a hold of the new UCE tensioner and tried to fab a mount for it in the older style engine?

Samgar
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