Author Topic: header problem/leak?  (Read 5024 times)

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b.sheets

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on: January 24, 2013, 11:38:17 pm
ive been noticing specks of carbon(at least i think so) on my engine and splattered down towards the crankcase and when i looked at it further i noticed that it looks like specks are coming out of where the header is bolted in. also noticed a considerable gap and after trying to tighten the bolts it doesnt seem like it meets up flush like it seems like it should.

i attached a few pictures. am i missing a gasket? not  really sure about any of this. is it normal? why I am getting splattered specks of carbon on my engine every time i go for a ride?

thanks
« Last Edit: January 25, 2013, 12:56:44 am by b.sheets »
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #1 on: January 24, 2013, 11:55:15 pm
That gold flange will not necessarily fit flush to the head, that's ok.  There's a ridge on its edge that presses the flared end of the header pipe to the head.  Also, the two bolts may not be equal distance out from the head.  Also ok.

With the engine running feel around where the pipe meets the head.  You can also hold a feather or piece of tissue paper.  If there is gas escaping you'll either feel it or see the feather/paper move.  If it is leaking, slowly and gently tighten the bolt nearest the leak.  If it feels like you're getting too tight, stop.  You don't want to strip it.  Order a new gasket, put it in, and slowly tighten both bolts equally until the leak stops.

Scott


b.sheets

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Reply #2 on: January 24, 2013, 11:59:08 pm
I do notice a hissing noise when I shut the engine off, which i can say  almost definitely is coming from the flange. I did tighten it up just a minute ago...and it did seem to get rid of the hissing.
will a new gasket get rid of the carbon im seeing on my engine?
probably a dealer part too?
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b.sheets

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Reply #3 on: January 25, 2013, 12:26:50 am
tightened up the bolts. started the engine.... stuck my hand down by the flange then revved the engine.... picture below is the result.

this can't be normal. is it?!
on the upside, no more hissing when i shut the bike off...but yeah. lots of carbon!
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #4 on: January 25, 2013, 12:34:49 am
You've got an exhaust leak for sure.  As I said, you can try to tighten a bit more, do this with the engine running.  You only want to go tight enough to stop the leak, no tighter.  That's why you want it running, so you can feel for the leak as you tighten.  And if it feels too tight stop, don't strip things and cause yourself pain.

A new gasket would certainly help, and yes, it's a dealer part.  If it's been leaking for a while the leak may have erroded that spot on the gasket and no amount of tighening will fix it.  You may be able to order it straight from CMW, call and ask.  It's only a few dollars.  Get a couple.

Scott


b.sheets

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Reply #5 on: January 25, 2013, 12:50:40 am
awesome, thanks so much for your help. it's my first bike... a lot of common sense is all you need but I always like to ask first in case I'm missing something. Ill probably give my Charleston dealer a call tomorrow.
on a side note, I'm going to be ordering the D&D system pretty soon. I'm sure it just involves a simple gasket as well but I'm a big fan of the streamlined looked without the gold flange.
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wildbill

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Reply #6 on: January 25, 2013, 01:02:10 am
that's exactly what happened to mine when the gasket blew out. mine chomped out the whole lot.
when you order - buy 3 and hold 2 for reserves, i did and at least if i have a problem - i'm not tied up for days chasing a gasket


Tri750

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Reply #7 on: January 25, 2013, 04:37:08 am
And use a peened over lock nut (not a nylon insert nut ) such as a stover type. This should be a permanent fix.
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b.sheets

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Reply #8 on: January 25, 2013, 06:01:44 am
And use a peened over lock nut (not a nylon insert nut ) such as a stover type. This should be a permanent fix.

noted. thank you so much for the tip
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barenekd

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Reply #9 on: January 25, 2013, 04:48:11 pm
There are exhaust sealing silicones available at your local auto parts stores. Put some of that on your gaskets and the problem will be solved.
Bare
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FiRE Comms

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Reply #10 on: January 25, 2013, 04:53:20 pm
B- I'm in Charleston as well give LA Motors a call, last time I went up there they did not have the gaskets...  As mentioned earlier get a couple...  I'm out of the Country now, but when I get back maybe we can get together...
Chris


b.sheets

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Reply #11 on: January 25, 2013, 04:59:23 pm
B- I'm in Charleston as well give LA Motors a call, last time I went up there they did not have the gaskets...  As mentioned earlier get a couple...  I'm out of the Country now, but when I get back maybe we can get together...

hey man! I'll give John a call in the next few days. Ill definitely get a couple though.

Are you stationed in charleston?
Im actually stationed in north carolina, at seymour johnson afb but Im down for a ride (taking the back roads of course) down to charleston.
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Desi Bike

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Reply #12 on: January 25, 2013, 05:01:37 pm
tightened up the bolts. started the engine.... stuck my hand down by the flange then revved the engine.... picture below is the result.

this can't be normal. is it?!
on the upside, no more hissing when i shut the bike off...but yeah. lots of carbon!

A little soap and water should take care of the hand issue.

My exhaust flange is actually bent, but it has kept a seal since day one. I'm afraid to disturb it, but I will have to soon, as I have a new down pipe waiting to self install itself. The pipe hasn't been doing a great job of self installing itself, so I have to help it I guess.
Does the gasket have to be RE factory issue of can I use a "cut your own" metallic header type gasket material?
میں نہیں چاہتا کہ ایک اچار
میں صرف اپنی موٹر سائیکل پر سوار کرنا چاہتے ہیں


barenekd

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Reply #13 on: January 25, 2013, 05:10:34 pm
Cut your own or get some of the fiber filled copper ones for aircraft. They work well, too. There's really no code to have to work from for gaskets.
Bare
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Reply #14 on: January 25, 2013, 05:12:01 pm
B-
My home of record is Charleston, civilian contractor back in the sand box till Juneish...
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Reply #15 on: January 25, 2013, 06:52:16 pm
Cut your own or get some of the fiber filled copper ones for aircraft. They work well, too. There's really no code to have to work from for gaskets.
Bare

The gasket is just a flat ring of metalized material.  You could easily cut your own if you got the material.

Scott


b.sheets

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Reply #16 on: January 26, 2013, 06:40:21 am
ordered 3 gaskets from hitchcocks, along with the metal replacement for the plastic POS battery lock.(already lost one battery covery in my 5 months of owning the bike and it actually happened on the 2nd ride I went on.)
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Reply #17 on: January 26, 2013, 06:21:36 pm
The Nfieldgear catalog gives the torque requirements for the two nuts as 4 foot/pounds.

That isn't very much torque but it will produce about 750 pounds (340Kg) of clamping force at each stud.  That's a total of 1500 pounds (680 Kg) of force holding the exhaust in place.

If too much torque is applied to the nuts in an effort to seal the joint, the studs may be broken off or worse, pulled out of the aluminum cylinder head.
Go easy with the torque.  A leaking joint is a lot better than a pulled out stud. :(
Jim
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b.sheets

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Reply #18 on: January 26, 2013, 07:55:40 pm
Thank you for those words of advice. I think I will put 2 gaskets on it when they arrive in the mail and go extra easy on the nuts....I will be getting stover type instead of the nylon though. thanks!
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b.sheets

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Reply #19 on: January 26, 2013, 08:26:58 pm
The Nfieldgear catalog gives the torque requirements for the two nuts as 4 foot/pounds.

That isn't very much torque but it will produce about 750 pounds (340Kg) of clamping force at each stud.  That's a total of 1500 pounds (680 Kg) of force holding the exhaust in place.

If too much torque is applied to the nuts in an effort to seal the joint, the studs may be broken off or worse, pulled out of the aluminum cylinder head.
Go easy with the torque.  A leaking joint is a lot better than a pulled out stud. :(

on the note of torque. what do you think of this wrench?
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html
I currently have no torque wrenches and I think this project calls for one to say the least. I can't find a craftsman that I like that does Inch/lbs or less than 5 ft/lbs

so im thinking this harborfreight one will do. thoughts?
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Jack Leis

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Reply #20 on: January 26, 2013, 08:40:55 pm
The Harbor Freight torque wrench will do , at least to get the nuts EQUAL. I broke an exhaust stud on my G5 installing a Hitchcock's pipe. With a little luck I was able to drill it and get the broken piece out with an EASYOUT . Definately a PITA though. Equal torque is you friend.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2013, 08:44:03 pm by Jack Leis »
I would much rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow    Jack


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Reply #21 on: January 26, 2013, 09:13:10 pm
b.sheets
That wrench would work for all of the smaller fasteners on your RE from the 4 ft/lbs on the oil filter cap thru the large oil drain plug at 15 ft/lbs.  It's max torque of 200 in/lbs equals 16.7 ft/lbs so it's about maxed out at 15 ft/lbs (180 in/lbs) .
Jim
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b.sheets

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Reply #22 on: January 26, 2013, 09:30:46 pm
thanks guys, ill get to ordering that in a few minutes. i can't believe that's the only torque wrench I can find with those specs.

ps. I need to get a manual or something. I need to know these torque specs as well. kind of important!
« Last Edit: January 26, 2013, 09:35:56 pm by b.sheets »
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