Author Topic: header problem/leak?  (Read 5027 times)

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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #15 on: January 25, 2013, 06:52:16 pm
Cut your own or get some of the fiber filled copper ones for aircraft. They work well, too. There's really no code to have to work from for gaskets.
Bare

The gasket is just a flat ring of metalized material.  You could easily cut your own if you got the material.

Scott


b.sheets

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Reply #16 on: January 26, 2013, 06:40:21 am
ordered 3 gaskets from hitchcocks, along with the metal replacement for the plastic POS battery lock.(already lost one battery covery in my 5 months of owning the bike and it actually happened on the 2nd ride I went on.)
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Arizoni

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Reply #17 on: January 26, 2013, 06:21:36 pm
The Nfieldgear catalog gives the torque requirements for the two nuts as 4 foot/pounds.

That isn't very much torque but it will produce about 750 pounds (340Kg) of clamping force at each stud.  That's a total of 1500 pounds (680 Kg) of force holding the exhaust in place.

If too much torque is applied to the nuts in an effort to seal the joint, the studs may be broken off or worse, pulled out of the aluminum cylinder head.
Go easy with the torque.  A leaking joint is a lot better than a pulled out stud. :(
Jim
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1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


b.sheets

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Reply #18 on: January 26, 2013, 07:55:40 pm
Thank you for those words of advice. I think I will put 2 gaskets on it when they arrive in the mail and go extra easy on the nuts....I will be getting stover type instead of the nylon though. thanks!
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b.sheets

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Reply #19 on: January 26, 2013, 08:26:58 pm
The Nfieldgear catalog gives the torque requirements for the two nuts as 4 foot/pounds.

That isn't very much torque but it will produce about 750 pounds (340Kg) of clamping force at each stud.  That's a total of 1500 pounds (680 Kg) of force holding the exhaust in place.

If too much torque is applied to the nuts in an effort to seal the joint, the studs may be broken off or worse, pulled out of the aluminum cylinder head.
Go easy with the torque.  A leaking joint is a lot better than a pulled out stud. :(

on the note of torque. what do you think of this wrench?
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-type-torque-wrench-2696.html
I currently have no torque wrenches and I think this project calls for one to say the least. I can't find a craftsman that I like that does Inch/lbs or less than 5 ft/lbs

so im thinking this harborfreight one will do. thoughts?
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Jack Leis

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Reply #20 on: January 26, 2013, 08:40:55 pm
The Harbor Freight torque wrench will do , at least to get the nuts EQUAL. I broke an exhaust stud on my G5 installing a Hitchcock's pipe. With a little luck I was able to drill it and get the broken piece out with an EASYOUT . Definately a PITA though. Equal torque is you friend.
« Last Edit: January 26, 2013, 08:44:03 pm by Jack Leis »
I would much rather ride a slow bike fast than a fast bike slow    Jack


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Reply #21 on: January 26, 2013, 09:13:10 pm
b.sheets
That wrench would work for all of the smaller fasteners on your RE from the 4 ft/lbs on the oil filter cap thru the large oil drain plug at 15 ft/lbs.  It's max torque of 200 in/lbs equals 16.7 ft/lbs so it's about maxed out at 15 ft/lbs (180 in/lbs) .
Jim
2011 G5 Deluxe
1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


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Reply #22 on: January 26, 2013, 09:30:46 pm
thanks guys, ill get to ordering that in a few minutes. i can't believe that's the only torque wrench I can find with those specs.

ps. I need to get a manual or something. I need to know these torque specs as well. kind of important!
« Last Edit: January 26, 2013, 09:35:56 pm by b.sheets »
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