Hi Jerry
The best way to break it in is to follow the rules for engines designed in the 1950's.
Run it slow and easy, varying the speed and avoid lugging it.
These are low speed, long stroke engines with a lot of torque so really there is no need to run them fast, especially during break in.
Some say the speed limits in the book (40 mph max) during the first 300 miles is a bit too cautious and my dealer told me that using 45 mph for brief periods would be okay. That kept the cages from trying to run over me more than once.
The transmission is a 'long stroke' too. That is, shift with long deliberate strokes on the shift lever. Japanese flicking of the lever will usually result in a neutral between the gears.
The book recommends using a 15-50 weight JASO MA semi-synthetic but I used Mobil 1, V-Twin 20-50 synthetic with good results. The important thing to remember is these bikes use a wet clutch with the engine oil lubing them so use a good grade of motorcycle oil with the JASO rating.
I also live in Phoenix and have ridden my G5 in 112 degree temps without a problem using the Mobil-1.
You'll probably be disappointed in the amount of work these UCE bikes need.
Changing oil and filter, blowing the dust out of the air cleaner (it breaths from the inside out) and looking at the spark plug and drive chain is about all that's needed.
Oh. And changing a few of the Indian made light bulbs that seem to burn out fairly easily, but to answer your question, they are very easy to work on if you have a complete set of Metric wrenches.
If your bike comes with the ribbed tread AVON front tire, try running it at about 18-20 psi.
These tires have very stiff sidewalls and seem to work best with the low pressures that were used on all of the middle weight English bikes in the '50's.
It's also a good idea to check under the side covers and other places where electrical wiring exists.
The Indian method of protecting wires is to wrap the harness with a layer of black electrical tape. There are several places where these "protected" wires can rub on sharp metal parts (like the side covers, no plastic crap here!). I slit some lengths of vinyl tubing to put the wires in and I think it has saved me a lot of grief over the past 18 months of riding.
Speaking of riding, forget I-10. Even after the bike is broken in, 80 mph is tops, so the cages and 18 wheelers rolling at 85 mph can be hazardous to your health. It does run great at 60-65 so trips up to Payson (and North) on the Bee Line and other slower highways are great fun.
If you have any questions at all, be sure to ask. There's a lot of good guys and gals here with a lot of knowledge about all of the models of Royal Enfields.
(Also, Kevin Mahoney, the man that owns the importing company that brings us these great bikes owns this site. He often is here reading (and contributing to) our posts.
How many other products do you know where you are talking to the Top Poo Baugh?)
Oh! I forgot. Check your new bikes nuts and bolts often.
Because the bikes do vibrate like the big singles that they are it is pretty common for the nuts and bolts to work loose.
All owners of Royal Enfields find that blue Loc-Tite is our friend.
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