[eda1bulletc5]

I stripped the secondary oil drain plug's hole thread on my bike. I had changed oil atleast around 7 times now on my C5, so I knew not to over tighten; but this time as it is was getting tight the plug started slipping.

I have gotten it tightened up such that it still requires ratchet spanner to remove the plug.

Now, what should I be doing on this issue?

BTW, my bike model is 2011 C5

Thanks a lot.

Sajiv

[Ducati Scotty]

If you've gotten it to hold you may want to look for an oversize plug.  These are slightly larger than spec and designed for drain holes that are worn and loose from many oil changes.  You could also do a thread repair (Heli-Coil) or open it to the next size.  Either way you'll need to tap the hole for larger threads.  Strictly speaking you should take the whole motor apart for this to make sure no metal filings get into the oil but you can cheat. Grease the tap to catch the cuttings, run in a half turn or so, remove, clean, degrease, repeat until you cut the full depth.

The oversize plug you can try on your own.  If you want to try over tapping or thread repair I'd say take it to a shop or at least find an experienced grease monkey friend to help you out.

Scott

[2bikebill]

I went the helicoil route when I had this problem. It's a simple and permanent fix. As Scott has said, go careful - you're working at an awkward angle under there - and use grease.
Perhaps get a torque wrench if you're prone to over-tighten

[eda1bulletc5]

Thanks for the information Scott and WillW; I looked up Heli-Coil; seems like there a variety of different types. Can you guys help me out which is the exact Heli-Coil that needs to be used for this.
Thanks!

[Ducati Scotty]

Will has done this one so I would love to know what he used.  Also drop by some auto shops that sell the tool and ask, you may get some good advice. You have a 14mm plug by the way.  Mac also makes a tool for this fix and you can always ask what a shop charges, it may not be that much.  One other thing if you do put in a thread repair: once the hole is tapped for the insert clean and dry it very well.  Then put in the insert with some LocTite. Let that set in place overnight, then install the bolt.  This helps to lock the new threads in place.  Otherwise they can sometime move in or out with the bolt.

Scott

[gremlin]

Or, (in keeping with tradition) you can start using silicone adhesive on the threads and only use your fingers to tighten.

[2bikebill]

I got lucky - I found a place on the local trading estate called Uni-Thread, but same sort of thing as Helicoil.
http://www.uni-thread.com/
I told the guy the problem, showed him the plug, and he kindly lent me the whole kit to do the job. When I took the stuff back later he charged me a fiver!  Old school good bloke.
This was in 2010. My bike came with the drain plug already cross-threaded (don't get me started...). I do remember it was a simpler job than I thought it would be, but I guess you wouldn't want to buy a load of kit just to do the one job. Best maybe to find a local place who'll either lend you the kit or do it for you. Half hour job so shouldn't cost much.

[hocko]

My main oil drain thread was stripped almost from new..my fault not the dealer. I originally used a product called new metal or something similar, (Old post on here) and drained the oil from the secondary oil drain with the filter on. Later I went to a garage and they put the bike over the pits and used a helicoil thread. That was aty about 6000km. I've got over 16000 km on now and I have a very small leak in the vicinity of the drain plug, it's that small I haven't had a good look at it yet, I'll wait for the next oil change at 18000 kms and see then.

Cheers 

[jartist]

If you still have some bite to the threads a couple wraps of yellow teflon tape will buy you a couple more oil changes.  I ran an old vespa this way for years. There were just enough threads left to hold the bolt but just barely and I couldn't tighten the bolt enough to stop it from leaking or the threads would be toast. The teflon tape stopped the leak and held the bolt in.

[eda1bulletc5]

Hi Folks,
Took the bike yesterday to a mechanic friend; he had a look in the drain hole and mentioned I had cross threaded the drain and further tightened striping the treads totally. Also, he noticed that there were still around 7 or 8 threads further up in the drain hole. He was able to find a longer drain plug but exact length of the OEM plug with magnet and used that with a Nylon washer.
The only thing is there is no magnet to catch the fillings; he mentioned it would not be a concern not to have a magnet.
Has anyone used these UCE bikes with drain plugs with no magnet, because of similar thread issues?
I have around 8200 miles as of today - by end weekend that would be 8500 miles!!

I really appreciate everyone's help and suggestions; people in this forum are the best!!

Thanks again!
Sajiv

[Ducati Scotty]

Even at 11,000 miles I find filings on my magnet every time.  Don't worry for now but get yourself a small rare earth magnet and some JB Weld.  Stick it to the drain plug next time you change the oil.

Scott

[ERC]

Once you get a good none leaking plug in there just pump the oil out in the future. ERC

[Arizoni]

As near a I can tell from looking at the drawings in the Parts Manual there isn't any easy way to get anything down into the oil sump to pump the oil out.
The oil fill dumps the oil into the right hand case where it passes thru holes into the sump.

I suppose just removing the two small screws and the drain cover that retains the oil inlet screen would get most of the oil out of the sump.

If a Heli-coil insert is installed it will provide some good steel threads for the big drain plug that should never wear out.
Of course, even with steel threads, someone who isn't paying attention and installing the big drain plug with their fingers could still cross-thread them.

[Ducati Scotty]

Another option is to drill out your drain plug and tap it for a smaller bolt.  The old drain plug stays in and the be smaller bolt becomes your drain plug.  Still, a HeliCoil or something like that would be your best bet long term.

Scott

[Ducati Scotty]

I'm not sure if this is the correct thread diameter and pitch for the drain plug:

http://www.wayfair.com/Helicoil-M14-X-1.25-Sav-A-Thread-Kit-5334-14-IJB1014.html?refid=GX8034129180-IJB1014&gclid=CL660e77uLMCFY6DQgodWQoAwA

But if it is that's a really good price to kiss your problems goodbye.

I think that's spark plug and drain plugs are usually 1.5, not 1.25.

Scott

[Ducati Scotty]

Curious.  The 1.25 pitch kit (spark plug) can be found for about $25.  The 1.5 pitch kit (drain plug) is $50-60.  I guess way more people strip spark plugs than drain plugs.  Makes it worth looking for a 1.25 drain plug.

Scott

[bob bezin]

if you put a drain plug in by hand most of the way ,you can avoid cross threading . be sure all threads are clean ,and you can feel if its going in strait. when its most of the way in only then snug it up with a wrench..

[eda1bulletc5]

Yes, I learnt my lesson on this. I think, I cross-threaded and then aslo tightened the plug as well.

As of now with the longer plug it is staying fine. The next oil change, I am thinking about putting some teflon tape near the head of the plug and and then tighten it. Till now no leaks as yet.

I might eventually be putting in a time-sert and then using the regular plug with magnet.

Thanks guys!

Sajiv

[Mance]

Guys,

I realize this is a very old thread, but I struggled with this issue for the past 9 months and finally found an easy, inexpensive fix that others might be interested to know.

The Problem:  I stripped my oil drain plug. I then tried using a helicoil, but didn't get the tap perfectly straight, so the plug wouldn't sit flush when screwed tight. This resulted in a a continued oil leak.

Solution:  I used a 1/2 inch rubber, universal plug from Dorman.  The plug has a metal shaft with a rubber casing. Just insert plug and hand tighten the screw that causes the rubber to expand in the plug hole. 

The plug is about $5 and is meant to be replaced with each oil change. If I remember correctly, the product family is called Oil-Tite. Just Google Dorman Universal Oil Plug and you will find it. Most importantly, it works. This is the first time I have been leak free in 9 months.   I worried that I needed to have the drain hole retapped, but this solved my problem.

I hope this might be helpful to others reading this post. 

Best regards

Mance

[wildbill]

worth the read -good info

[eda1bulletc5]

Hey Mance,
Thanks for the suggestion. This would be a good solution to stripped drain hole, like how it happened in my bike.
I used a longer drain plug but only the length of the OE drain plug with magnet; there is thread further inside the hole which is not being used; this longer drain plug threads to that...the only thing is no magnet now; I think that is ok. Maybe will get some earth magnet and JB weld on the drain plugs head.
Till now it has worked out fine...
I will anyways get the rubber drain plug and try it out if need be.
Thanks.

[Ducati Scotty]

Just saw these at the auto store.  I had used one in a car many years ago.  If you go for one replace it every year or so.  The rubber hardens over time and will crack eventually. 

Scott

[Gypsyjon]

Or, (in keeping with tradition) you can start using silicone adhesive on the threads and only use your fingers to tighten.

Gremlin, is that what you do? What kind of silicone adhesive? Sounds like a good tip to me, will be doing first oil change this weekend. TiA.

[Kevin Mahoney]

I have used these myself with good result. There is a similar product to plug up water jacket core plugs that leak without having to pull the engine.

[Arizoni]

Gypsyjon
If you don't have one buy yourself a good torque wrench and a socket and just torque the big drain plug to 15 lbs/ft.  While your buying, get a 8mm socket for the wrench to torque the small bolts that hold the sump screen and the oil filter cover and torque those bolts to 4 lbs/ft torque. (Yes, this isn't much torque but these are little bolts)
There's no need to use yucky pucky and by using the correct torques there's no worry about stripping the holes.

[benknrobbers]

Gypsyjon
If you don't have one buy yourself a good torque wrench and a socket and just torque the big drain plug to 15 lbs/ft.  While your buying, get a 8mm socket for the wrench to torque the small bolts that hold the sump screen and the oil filter cover and torque those bolts to 4 lbs/ft torque. (Yes, this isn't much torque but these are little bolts)
There's no need to use yucky pucky and by using the correct torques there's no worry about stripping the holes.

Running a helicoil isn't terribly hard, depending on the style you run. The easiest way to do it is take your plug to the hardware shop you are getting the helicoil set at, they typically will make sure you get the particulars right for pitch etc if you are unsure. You should get an installation tool and a tap with your kit. While you are running the tap the way I've found to do it best is slowly and patiently. Make sure you are following the original threads to the best of your ability. Blast some lube on the tap, and some on the threads to be chased, run the tap in a little way, till it catches a bit, then back off a bit, every time you run it in you should get slightly further. Keep doing this and periodically pull the tap completely out out and clean the threads. Once you get done the tap should be pretty well able to run all the way in and out smoothly with finger pressure. Your helicoil kit should come with a tool for installation, and hopefully directions for their particular brand.  Depending on the style you are putting in there will be a tang at the bottom of the helicoil, this is what the tool grabs hold of to turn it into the thread. Personally if I don't have to remove it for the bolt to pass completely through I leave the tang in place. If you do have to remove it for proper installation of your plug, be careful, you can mess up the thread on the insert in the process. If that happens, you just pull the helicoil out with a pair of needlenose and stick a new one in.

The easiest way to do the whole thing is to always install bolts finger tight before applying a tool to them, and always torque to the proper value, which typically keeps you from having to replace the thread in the first place. You can find torque values if not listed by searching google for "standard torque values" or "torque value chart".  If you encounter something that doesn't want to stay put at the proper torque, a locking washer, loctite, plastic locking feature bolts or even safety wire in some cases.

[wildbill]

 Dorman Universal Oil Plug. i thought i might buy one for a spare - found one on ebay for $10
only problem was the idiot who ran the auction wanted US $54 postage.
you can guess what i replied to him. ouch!

[Gypsyjon]

Dorman Universal Oil Plug. i thought i might buy one for a spare - found one on ebay for $10
only problem was the idiot who ran the auction wanted US $54 postage.
you can guess what i replied to him. ouch!

PEP Boys has got them for 4 bucks.

[Ducati Scotty]

Some good ideas here too: http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Stripped-Oil-Drain-Plug-Repair.pdf

[GSS]

Good stuff.  Thanks for sharing!