Author Topic: Stripped drain hole thread  (Read 8349 times)

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eda1bulletc5

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on: November 02, 2012, 07:01:59 am
I stripped the secondary oil drain plug's hole thread on my bike. I had changed oil atleast around 7 times now on my C5, so I knew not to over tighten; but this time as it is was getting tight the plug started slipping.

I have gotten it tightened up such that it still requires ratchet spanner to remove the plug.

Now, what should I be doing on this issue?

BTW, my bike model is 2011 C5

Thanks a lot.

Sajiv
2011 RE C5 (@25K + miles)
2012 Honda NC700X 6-speed (sold @26K miles)
2013 BMW R1200RT (@43K + miles)


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #1 on: November 02, 2012, 07:14:22 am
If you've gotten it to hold you may want to look for an oversize plug.  These are slightly larger than spec and designed for drain holes that are worn and loose from many oil changes.  You could also do a thread repair (Heli-Coil) or open it to the next size.  Either way you'll need to tap the hole for larger threads.  Strictly speaking you should take the whole motor apart for this to make sure no metal filings get into the oil but you can cheat. Grease the tap to catch the cuttings, run in a half turn or so, remove, clean, degrease, repeat until you cut the full depth.

The oversize plug you can try on your own.  If you want to try over tapping or thread repair I'd say take it to a shop or at least find an experienced grease monkey friend to help you out.

Scott


2bikebill

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Reply #2 on: November 02, 2012, 07:42:01 am
I went the helicoil route when I had this problem. It's a simple and permanent fix. As Scott has said, go careful - you're working at an awkward angle under there - and use grease.
Perhaps get a torque wrench if you're prone to over-tighten
2009 Royal Enfield Electra (G5)


eda1bulletc5

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Reply #3 on: November 02, 2012, 02:56:57 pm
Thanks for the information Scott and WillW; I looked up Heli-Coil; seems like there a variety of different types. Can you guys help me out which is the exact Heli-Coil that needs to be used for this.
Thanks!
2011 RE C5 (@25K + miles)
2012 Honda NC700X 6-speed (sold @26K miles)
2013 BMW R1200RT (@43K + miles)


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #4 on: November 02, 2012, 03:52:09 pm
Will has done this one so I would love to know what he used.  Also drop by some auto shops that sell the tool and ask, you may get some good advice. You have a 14mm plug by the way.  Mac also makes a tool for this fix and you can always ask what a shop charges, it may not be that much.  One other thing if you do put in a thread repair: once the hole is tapped for the insert clean and dry it very well.  Then put in the insert with some LocTite. Let that set in place overnight, then install the bolt.  This helps to lock the new threads in place.  Otherwise they can sometime move in or out with the bolt.

Scott


gremlin

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Reply #5 on: November 02, 2012, 04:58:17 pm
Or, (in keeping with tradition) you can start using silicone adhesive on the threads and only use your fingers to tighten.
1996 Trophy 1200
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2bikebill

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Reply #6 on: November 02, 2012, 05:47:58 pm
I got lucky - I found a place on the local trading estate called Uni-Thread, but same sort of thing as Helicoil.
http://www.uni-thread.com/
I told the guy the problem, showed him the plug, and he kindly lent me the whole kit to do the job. When I took the stuff back later he charged me a fiver!  Old school good bloke.
This was in 2010. My bike came with the drain plug already cross-threaded (don't get me started...). I do remember it was a simpler job than I thought it would be, but I guess you wouldn't want to buy a load of kit just to do the one job. Best maybe to find a local place who'll either lend you the kit or do it for you. Half hour job so shouldn't cost much.
2009 Royal Enfield Electra (G5)


hocko

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Reply #7 on: November 02, 2012, 11:07:34 pm
My main oil drain thread was stripped almost from new..my fault not the dealer. I originally used a product called new metal or something similar, (Old post on here) and drained the oil from the secondary oil drain with the filter on. Later I went to a garage and they put the bike over the pits and used a helicoil thread. That was aty about 6000km. I've got over 16000 km on now and I have a very small leak in the vicinity of the drain plug, it's that small I haven't had a good look at it yet, I'll wait for the next oil change at 18000 kms and see then.

Cheers  :)


jartist

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Reply #8 on: November 02, 2012, 11:09:52 pm
If you still have some bite to the threads a couple wraps of yellow teflon tape will buy you a couple more oil changes.  I ran an old vespa this way for years. There were just enough threads left to hold the bolt but just barely and I couldn't tighten the bolt enough to stop it from leaking or the threads would be toast. The teflon tape stopped the leak and held the bolt in.
« Last Edit: November 02, 2012, 11:14:53 pm by jartist »


eda1bulletc5

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Reply #9 on: November 03, 2012, 03:52:20 pm
Hi Folks,
Took the bike yesterday to a mechanic friend; he had a look in the drain hole and mentioned I had cross threaded the drain and further tightened striping the treads totally. Also, he noticed that there were still around 7 or 8 threads further up in the drain hole. He was able to find a longer drain plug but exact length of the OEM plug with magnet and used that with a Nylon washer.
The only thing is there is no magnet to catch the fillings; he mentioned it would not be a concern not to have a magnet.
Has anyone used these UCE bikes with drain plugs with no magnet, because of similar thread issues?
I have around 8200 miles as of today - by end weekend that would be 8500 miles!!

I really appreciate everyone's help and suggestions; people in this forum are the best!!

Thanks again!
Sajiv
2011 RE C5 (@25K + miles)
2012 Honda NC700X 6-speed (sold @26K miles)
2013 BMW R1200RT (@43K + miles)


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #10 on: November 03, 2012, 09:31:22 pm
Even at 11,000 miles I find filings on my magnet every time.  Don't worry for now but get yourself a small rare earth magnet and some JB Weld.  Stick it to the drain plug next time you change the oil.

Scott


ERC

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Reply #11 on: November 04, 2012, 11:08:51 pm
Once you get a good none leaking plug in there just pump the oil out in the future. ERC
2-57 Apaches, 2-57 Trailblazers, 60 Chief, 65 Interceptor, 2004 Bullet, 612 Bullet chopped.


Arizoni

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Reply #12 on: November 04, 2012, 11:36:24 pm
As near a I can tell from looking at the drawings in the Parts Manual there isn't any easy way to get anything down into the oil sump to pump the oil out.
The oil fill dumps the oil into the right hand case where it passes thru holes into the sump.

I suppose just removing the two small screws and the drain cover that retains the oil inlet screen would get most of the oil out of the sump.

If a Heli-coil insert is installed it will provide some good steel threads for the big drain plug that should never wear out.
Of course, even with steel threads, someone who isn't paying attention and installing the big drain plug with their fingers could still cross-thread them.
Jim
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1999 Miata 10th Anniversary


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #13 on: November 05, 2012, 02:27:47 am
Another option is to drill out your drain plug and tap it for a smaller bolt.  The old drain plug stays in and the be smaller bolt becomes your drain plug.  Still, a HeliCoil or something like that would be your best bet long term.

Scott


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #14 on: November 05, 2012, 11:20:16 pm
I'm not sure if this is the correct thread diameter and pitch for the drain plug:

http://www.wayfair.com/Helicoil-M14-X-1.25-Sav-A-Thread-Kit-5334-14-IJB1014.html?refid=GX8034129180-IJB1014&gclid=CL660e77uLMCFY6DQgodWQoAwA

But if it is that's a really good price to kiss your problems goodbye.

I think that's spark plug and drain plugs are usually 1.5, not 1.25.

Scott
« Last Edit: November 06, 2012, 12:06:12 am by Ducati Scotty »