Author Topic: Funky idle?  (Read 10725 times)

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gremlin

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Reply #15 on: October 23, 2012, 08:13:16 pm
computers & mobile phones = Kids & their toys .....

all ya gotta do is hold your hurdy gurdy up to the engine case & feel for the beat.....

half an hour of calculus later, & you have a very good estimate !  (depending on the state of tune of BOTH your engine & the musical instrument )
« Last Edit: October 23, 2012, 08:19:30 pm by gremlin »
1996 Trophy 1200
2009 Hyosung GV250
2011 RE B5


jartist

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Reply #16 on: October 23, 2012, 11:42:12 pm
On the vintage vespa site there's a thread about a dyno app for a smartphone.  You set the weight of bike and rider and input the gearing and then you put your smartphone in a backpack and wring out your scooter in third gear.  It works off of sound and time and the gps?  Something like that.  Amazing!


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #17 on: October 24, 2012, 12:05:01 am
Most smart phones have both accelerometers and GPS capability.


hortoncode3

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Reply #18 on: October 24, 2012, 01:17:44 pm
My '09  EFI G5 Military does that high idle/low idle thing, but it didn't do it until I swopped to the K and N filter. Now, at lights, it "hunts" for idle.. it's irritating, but I think it's tied to the O2 sensor trying to perfect the correct exhaust gas mix by bumping up the idle to increase heat in the manifold...I had a Jeep that did the same thing..


gremlin

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Reply #19 on: October 24, 2012, 03:30:38 pm
I agree, the idle hunting seems to be a reaction of the computer correcting the mixture (the pulse width at the injector) to maintain the O2 sensor reading - but - the algorithm acting on too short of a history for the slowly revolving engine.  add to that the O2 sensor cooling between cycles & we might have a machine slipping into and out of startup enrichment.
1996 Trophy 1200
2009 Hyosung GV250
2011 RE B5


mattsz

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Reply #20 on: October 24, 2012, 05:11:33 pm
Here's what may be an interesting twist to the story - or I might just be hijacking my own thread!  My bike has always "clunked" heavily into first gear when cold, or should I say, when unridden for awhile.  I can warm it up at idle, but that first shift is a hard clunk and a jerk, even if I "fan" the clutch two or three times before shifting.  After that first clunk, I can shift right into neutral and right back again into first without further incident.  Once that initial shift is done, it is fine until I shut it down and let it cool off.

This morning I warmed the bike up for about 1-1/2 minutes while I got my helmet and jacket on.  It was cold out, 33 deg. F, but the bike spent the night in the garage which was about 50 deg.  I hopped on, fanned the clutch in and out two or three times as I usually do before shifting a cold bike into 1st, then held the clutch in with 2 fingers to where the lever just about touches my 2 remaining fingers on the grip, like I usually do.  But this time when I shifted down into 1st, the bike jumped and stalled, as if I wasn't holding the clutch in at all!  I'm glad I was holding the brake with my right hand!  I returned it to neutral, started it back up, and it shifted lightly into 1st, just like it always does the second time.

My clutch cable seems to be adjusted fine - I have no other issues or problems than the initial cold "clunk".  But this was serious - I think without the front brake engaged, it might have knocked me down.  Could my idle adjustments have something to do with this?


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #21 on: October 24, 2012, 05:52:30 pm
I think this is related more to the fact that you're not pulling the clutch fully.  You said you, "held the clutch in with 2 fingers to where the lever just about touches my 2 remaining fingers on the grip".  Dude, four fingers on the clutch and pull it all the way to the grip.  This isn't a precision Japanese sport bike.  Pull that clutch in all the way and I bet it won't stall or lurch on the first drop into gear.  Do the same when you fan the clutch before putting it in gear.

Scott


Fogrunner

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Reply #22 on: October 24, 2012, 06:24:21 pm
  This isn't a precision Japanese sport bike. 
Scott
You hit the nail on the head!! I think there is no mistaking the Enfield as anything but unique!!
Phil
2012 G5 Classic


gremlin

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Reply #23 on: October 24, 2012, 07:02:44 pm
pull the clutch all the way in, then, rev slightly.  the problem is "stiction"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stiction

1996 Trophy 1200
2009 Hyosung GV250
2011 RE B5


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #24 on: October 24, 2012, 07:18:16 pm
How do you find this stuff Gremlin?  A single page that unifies Johansson blocks, telescopes, and post-operative transexuals.  Your Google skills are truly amazing!

Scott


barenekd

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Reply #25 on: October 24, 2012, 07:33:29 pm
The bike clunks into gear initially because the clutch plates tend to stick together when sitting. Once you break them free, they are OK after that. If you want to avoid the clunk, Kick the engine through with the clutch pulled in gear before you start it. Kicking it will free up the plates.
Bare
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gremlin

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Reply #26 on: October 24, 2012, 08:04:51 pm
The bike clunks into gear initially because the clutch plates tend to stick together when sitting. Once you break them free, they are OK after that. If you want to avoid the clunk, Kick the engine through with the clutch pulled in gear before you start it. Kicking it will free up the plates.
Bare

+1
1996 Trophy 1200
2009 Hyosung GV250
2011 RE B5


gremlin

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Reply #27 on: October 24, 2012, 08:10:35 pm
How about starting the engine (using the button) with the tranny in 1st gear (clutch pulled in).
1996 Trophy 1200
2009 Hyosung GV250
2011 RE B5


barenekd

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Reply #28 on: October 24, 2012, 08:17:09 pm
You may notice the starter working a bit harder and slower dragging those draggy plates around. You should e-start it in neutral. If you're sitting in gear at a stoplight and it quits, you can use the e-starter there.
Bare
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GlennF

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Reply #29 on: October 24, 2012, 10:47:35 pm
On a scale of 1 to 10 with a Caterpillar D9 at "one" and a Ferrari GTO 250 at "ten" the Enfield is about ... hmm  1.5 ?