[GlennF]

disconnected ... was fouling plugs

[Ducati Scotty]

I usually park my bike on the center stand. It can warm up there. He side stand switch can be a bit of a pain, but I leave it thee. Actually, my bike will run when it's leaning on the side stand, but taking the load off it kills the engine.
Bare

I'm way too lazy to put it up on the center stand just to warm it up while I get my gear on, that's like work.  This is like 9am when I do this.  I'm barely awake! 

Scott

[mja]

Mine was never connected ...  Go figure.

[idk]

disconnected ... was fouling plugs

[GlennF]

A sensible compromise if your worried about safety might be to connect the side stand switch to a cutout relay connected to the electric starter circuit.

[Amsters]

Many of them aren't located very well. If you drill out the mounting holes a little you can adjust them further away from the sidestand. This fixes the "hit a bump, bike kills problem".

Hey Thanks for this info! Just did this and it fixed the problem. I elongated mounting holes in the switch by about 2mm (milling out the switch plunger side of the mounting holes with a 5mm drill), this allows the switch body to slide about 2mm further away from the side stand leg. It moves the moves the switching point smack bang into the middle of the  movement range of the side stand ie. around 5 o'clock (ie. stand up is at 3 o'clock, down is at 7 o'clock).

[heloego]

I had the Dealer disconnect it before I accepted the bike Saturday. Removed it this weekend.

[heloego]

My dealer disconnected the switch at my request, but left it mounted. Inspection of the switch today was interesting.
The first thing I noted was the correct mounting position of it requires the pigtail enter the unit in the front of the switch, and the leads entry point in the switch is not sealed in any manner (just the sleazy black tubing on the wires ending just short of the entry point.), leaving it open to all sorts of crap thrown back by the front tire or moisture etc. simply floating in the air. Combined with the very sharp bend of the pigtail at the entry point I imagine the crap getting into the switch when riding is a major cause of the "problematic" description often given the switch.
Rather than take the chance with the questionable quality of the switch, I removed it and sealed the frame connector.

[Ducati Scotty]

Bravo to your dealer for disconnecting it and not crying about some liability crap. 

Scott

[ROVERMAN]

+1.

[Craig McClure]

I thought everybody got rid of them!  I also got rid of the DOT required wiring jumper pigtail in the headlight, this gives ME the option of turning on/off my expensive Xenon headlight bulb. I have a bright blue LED pilot bulb in the reflector to be a "legal" running light.

[heloego]

Bravo to your dealer for disconnecting it and not crying about some liability crap. 

In all fairness, they did ask I sign a Waiver of Liability. These are good folks, and I'm willing to protect them if appropriate. The switch isn't a big issue, so the waiver wasn't either.
Here's a pic of the finished removal of the unit, with the frame side connector sealed and secured. I reversed the install of the forward hex screw and set both with blue Loc-Tite.

[Craig McClure]

No offence, But if that is your battery vent hose-It is positioned in the photo, to put acid spots all over your rear wheel & etc. It should be positioned to go straight down pointing at the ground. Better still buy a new sealed AGM battery with no drain hose, that will never puke acid on your chrome or paint!   Hope this helps!

[heloego]

Good point!
Thanks, Craig!

[Gypsyjon]

I thought everybody got rid of them!  I also got rid of the DOT required wiring jumper pigtail in the headlight, this gives ME the option of turning on/off my expensive Xenon headlight bulb. I have a bright blue LED pilot bulb in the reflector to be a "legal" running light.

Tell us about your headlight set up, Craig.