Author Topic: Ring terminals for battery  (Read 5675 times)

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JVS

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Reply #15 on: August 29, 2013, 03:10:40 pm
Haha  :) That is good to know..but at the same time I'm kind of surprised and confused as to why a new and robust (was) connector will also succumb to the vibrations of a Bullet. Thankfully, I haven't had any broken terminals or other connections yet..I do keep a check on them and apply petroleum jelly to the battery terminals to keep away the moisture. Overall, they seem very secure. Maybe there will be a day when I'll get the same broken terminal. Spontaneous things these Enfields are  ;D

The terminal wires need to go in a way so that they are not bending too much near the connector side and are not forced to suffer any direct external force/movements whilst the bike is running. Maybe tightening the connections too much weakens the connectors somehow...I guess we'll never know. What a bike this Bullet is.   :D
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Craig McClure

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Reply #16 on: August 29, 2013, 06:00:37 pm
WHEN YOU DO CHANGE YOUR BATTERY, USE ONLY AN AGM TYPE BATTERY. It will not cause corrosion anywhere, or puke acid on your chrome or paint. & it lasts longer & is stronger.
   Also I prefer my terminals to the out side of the battery, so no frame contact can occur. You can always put a rubber/bubble wrap cover over it to prevent frame cover panel contact.
   I have had good success with Motobatt, Deka, & Odyssey brand batteries. Mottobatt being cheapest, Odyssey being highest. I'm Running a medium priced Deka in my 2010 G5 Deluxe,& like it fine.
Best Wishes, Craig McClure


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #17 on: August 29, 2013, 06:09:48 pm
Did you solder the new terminal on to the cables?  This makes for a great connection but does make that section of the cable less flexible, which could transmit the stress to the ring terminal.  I'd get some longer cables made so you can tie them to the frame and lower the vibration getting transmitted to the ring terminal.  Also, severval layers of heat shrink near the terminal can help transfer any stresses over a wider area.

Scott


gashousegorilla

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Reply #18 on: August 29, 2013, 06:11:15 pm
   Something like this from your local auto store... it's what i use. But i don't crimp them on, I solder them on.  Heat the end, near the ring, and float the solder in and fill it around the wire.  A little butane or a propane torch works nice.....  http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/index.php?_a=product&product_id=258

  Or better yet... just take out your ground strap, and bring it down to the store. And they should have one... in a heavier gauge... that you can match yours up with.
« Last Edit: August 29, 2013, 06:18:35 pm by gashousegorilla »
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #19 on: August 29, 2013, 06:20:00 pm
Going to a heavier gauge is always a good idea on bikes, makes for much easier starts. 

Scott


D the D

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Reply #20 on: August 29, 2013, 07:53:00 pm
Do like the factory did: Go thinner.  Hot wires burn easier.  Very easy to smoke check if you're not sure.
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mattsz

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Reply #21 on: August 29, 2013, 08:53:39 pm
I crimped the lugs on.  I wonder would it help in the long run to secure the cable directly to the battery somehow, so any vibration or movement between the battery and the frame is "absorbed" by the stranded copper cable rather than the solid metal terminal ends?

I've paid careful attention to the new battery threads, so I'm ready for that, Craig!

I'm pretty sure I'm done with long trips for this year; I'll probably just leave it as it is until riding season ends, at which point I'll make up some new cables to go with the new battery.  I seem to remember that somebody here found their positive cable "glued" into the solenoid.  I wonder if I'll find the same thing?


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #22 on: August 29, 2013, 09:04:15 pm
New cables with enough slack to tie it right to the battery would be a great idea.

Scott


Arizoni

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Reply #23 on: August 29, 2013, 11:04:12 pm
I think the lugs breaking is because of the vibrations of the engine.

If the wire is just hanging there it will develop sympathetic vibrations causing it to move back and forth hundreds of times a minute.
The movement will fatigue the metal causing it to harden and break.

Tying the cable to the battery with a twisty tie or some electrical tape so it isn't hanging free will keep this from happening.

Crimping the cable to the connector is better than soldering it in place.
Yes, the solder will provide better electrical contact but it also bonds the wiring strands together so they can't move.
Without being able to move, the strands will develop very high stresses where the solder stops.   Small movements of the remaining wire will result in the same high stresses and hardening that can affect the connector resulting in the wires breaking.
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Ice

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Reply #24 on: August 30, 2013, 04:53:23 am
 Welding cable can be had in smaller guages perfect for motorcycle battery cables.  It's many finer strands resist vibration fatigue better and guage for guage it carries more load with lower resistance than comparable size cable. 

 
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