Author Topic: Oil / filter change interval question  (Read 4150 times)

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mattsz

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on: October 18, 2012, 02:03:46 pm
Howdy all-

I'm approaching 1000 miles, and I was thinking about a second oil change (first was at 300 miles) before I take off on a few-hundred-miles trip in a couple of days.  While searching for forum info about oil change intervals, I found an interesting discussion from about 1-1/2 years ago about oil and filter changes, including this post from singhg5:

http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,10511.msg122343.html#msg122343

In it he posts a photo of the "periodical maintenance" page from his manual which clearly indicates a filter change twice as often as oil change.  My manual is different; it indicates identical filter and oil change interval.  I assume his is for a UCE bike, but it would be a year or two older than mine.

What's the latest take on this?  Should I be considering changing the filter more often than the oil?

I don't know when I'll put my bike away for the season, but I'm going to ride as long as I can, putting on mostly commuting miles (11 miles each way) after this trip.  Should I just wait and change the oil before bed?  I'll probably end up with less than 1500 miles on it by then, and the manual (my version  ;) ) doesn't require the second oil change until 3750 miles...


JVS

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Reply #1 on: October 18, 2012, 02:27:25 pm
Seems like a mis-print/error in that Owner's manual.  :o

As yours, my 2011 B5 manual recommends oil and the filter change at every 6000km/3750mi. Some members prefer to do an oil change around 1000-1200 miles as it is just out of the break-in period. I would just follow what the manual recommends, as long as you have peace of mind and don't push your RE to the limit O_O I do ride a tad aggressively, but in the end it is a machine and is capable to handle reasonable stress (I guess)

But hey, no harm in changing the oil every 3000km/1800mi
« Last Edit: October 18, 2012, 02:39:30 pm by JVS »
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ADB

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Reply #2 on: October 18, 2012, 05:26:38 pm
I'm by no means an expert on this, but I can tell you my experience. I bought my c5 in late May of this year, did the 300 mile oil change about 10 days later, and then I changed the oil again at 1200 miles because I'm overly cautious.  Anyway, when i changed the oil at 1200, i can tell you i still found quite a bit of the metal flakes on both of the magnets, significantly less than at the first oil change, but enough to where if i were you, I wouldn't want that floating around in my oil.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #3 on: October 18, 2012, 06:28:23 pm
+1 to what ADB says, still lots of metal coming out at 1000 miles.

Lots of folks do an oil change at 300 then another at around 1000, then settle into their regular interval changes whatever that may be.  I would recommend you always change oil and filter.  It's a small filter and only 2 quarts of oil, that's all that's protecting your engine.

Scott


barenekd

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Reply #4 on: October 19, 2012, 09:09:53 pm
I changed mine at 250, then 1200, then started going with the 3500 mile intervals. Change the filter with every oil change. Mobil1 V-Twin is what I use.
Bare
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shamelin

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Reply #5 on: October 20, 2012, 04:15:20 am
My B5 had quite a bit of metal at 300 miles.  Less at 1000 miles, but still enough that I wouldn't want to put another 500 miles on it before putting it up for the winter.  Change the oil and filter now.

And whatever you do, be careful with that EZ oil cap.  I've changed my oil twice now, and both times I broke a screw tab off of the oil cap when putting it back on.  Use a socket screwdriver, not a wrench, and tighten it just enough to prevent oil from leaking.

To add insult to injury, the EZ oil cap is on backorder at Nfield gear and has been '7-10 days out' for the last 6 weeks.  I finally gave up and bought one from Hitchcock's- now I'm just waiting for it to clear the border.


barenekd

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Reply #6 on: October 20, 2012, 05:27:50 am
Those screws don't need to be tightened down a lot. they just need to be tight enough to slightly compress the gasket. If you don't use the gasket, just some sealer and the cap fits flush against the engine case you can tighten them a bit more. the problem with the gasket is that the tabs hang over the edge and the tabs will bend down when they are overtightened.
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raderj

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Reply #7 on: October 20, 2012, 08:17:03 am
Bare,
I noticed after a ride one day that oil was weeping past my oil filter cover gasket. Was this most likely from over-tightening? The bike is in storage now, but I am going to change the oil and o-rings/gaskets when I get back. How tight is tight enough?


Arizoni

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Reply #8 on: October 21, 2012, 01:49:22 am
If oil is weeping around the oil filter cover plate, the O-ring in the cap has been damaged.

The flat gasket really doesn't seal much.  It's more of a back up for the O-ring than anything.

Those little bolts with the 8mm hex heads that hold the oil filter cap and the bottom sump drain in place should be tightened to 4 foot/pounds of torque.
When your at 4 foot pounds of torque you'll think it can't possibly be tight but it is.

Before installing your new O-ring, visually inspect the lead in chamfer into the filter bore.
If you see any sharp edges where the chamfer meets the bore you might want to round them off so they won't damage your new packing.

Also, be sure to apply some oil  to the chamfer and the outside of the O-ring before you assemble things.
As the O-ring is entering the bore, it will be compressed about .010 inches and the lube helps it slide into place.
Jim
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Ice

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Reply #9 on: October 21, 2012, 04:10:16 am
 Air cools the head and cylinder fin sufaces but it is the engines oil that cools the internals.
 You only have two quarts and it takes quite a beating both thermally and mechanically.
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mattsz

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Reply #10 on: October 21, 2012, 01:46:46 pm
While we're talking about oil - I have a level question.  I drained the oil, including tilting the bike side to side just a little - probably not enough to get much extra.  I soaked the new filter before installing it.  I refilled until the level of clean oil just reached the upper limit line at the sight glass.  I started the bike and watched in the glass as the clean oil mixed with the residual old oil  :( .

I rode the bike around the block, and now the oil level is higher than the top of the glass.  Not by much - if I tilt the bike on its center stand so the stand's right foot is about 1/2 inch from the floor, the top level of the oil appears.

Does this sound right?  Where did the extra oil come from?

Perhaps more importantly, is it ok this way?  If not, can I siphon some oil out?  Perhaps with a tube fed down into the oil fill opening?


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #11 on: October 21, 2012, 06:30:56 pm
You need to have the bike hot and level when you check the oil.  Not warm, hot.  Fill it to your preferred level and the ride a few miles to get the engine really warm.  The either hold it level or put it on the center stand to measure the level.  Top off if needed.  When the oil is not hot it tends to pool in certain areas and makes the level appear different than it eally is.

On "preferred level" there have been many posts here about how far to fill. Most people get oil spewing into the air cleaner if they fill to the top of the glass, some even at the mid level line.  If you see any oil in the sight glass you have enough to run safely.

Scott


barenekd

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Reply #12 on: October 21, 2012, 07:06:36 pm
My G5 runsfine with the oil a bit ever the top. Not a problem. As far as really checking the oil, you need the bike on the centerstand, and make sure it's level laterally. Rotate the bike around on the spot and see if the level in the sight glass varies. If so determine the mean reading, then turn it to the usual parking position and compare that to your mean reading and adjust from there. Mine is about 1/2" high to low from one direction to the other.
Raderj, yeah, the oring is first thing to check. I use a Permatex red gasket sealer on mine just for a backup. The screws do net need to be cranked down all that tight. Overtightening can result in broken screws, warped caps, and broken of ears on the cap. Take it easy. Torque on them should be about 15-20 lb/in.
Bare
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palace15

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Reply #13 on: October 21, 2012, 07:58:05 pm
Just changed the oil today, I have 7800miles on the clock and I am still getting small metal flakes on the magnets, this oil did approximately 2300miles which is more than I like to do but this was because of a European trip I did, and I did not fancy a 'kerbside' oilchange! and I was also guilty party to over filling and finished up with a oil soaked airfilter.
I have not looked into it yet but can that breather that sends the oil to the airfilter box be routed to the drivechain instead?
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barenekd

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Reply #14 on: October 21, 2012, 08:01:25 pm
I routed mine up under the seat and to the rear of the bike. Works great. No oil anywhere.
Bare
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