Author Topic: headlight connector meltdown  (Read 5325 times)

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Pauly

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on: September 30, 2012, 12:07:24 am
allright, last weeknend i experiened a complete meltdown in the electrical harness that attaches to the headlight.  it popped the main fuse.  i pulled out the harness and seperated the wires and then got everything going again with some creative heat shrink tubing use.

SO the question. the connectors on the back of the headlight are larger than anything anyplace in town had on the shelf.  so where can I get them, the ID is about 3/8". everyone i've checked has 1/4.  also is the white plastic part that hooks into the main harness a standard item i can pic up somewhere. i'd like to rebuild the whole thing with heavier wire.

suggestions appreciated

Pauly

oh also, no one had the fuses, they had shorter or longer, but not an exact match, is there any problem just using the shorter, or has ayone converted them to mini BUS fuses?
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singhg5

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Reply #1 on: September 30, 2012, 03:45:41 am
SO the question. the connectors on the back of the headlight are larger than anything anyplace in town had on the shelf.  so where can I get them, the ID is about 3/8". everyone i've checked has 1/4.  also is the white plastic part that hooks into the main harness a standard item i can pic up somewhere. i'd like to rebuild the whole thing with heavier wire.
Pauly


The headlight blade connectors are of unusual size and I could not find them in any store - They are 5/16" (8 mm).  I think the US importer of RE has some wires/connectors that might fit - give them a call .

« Last Edit: October 01, 2012, 12:25:39 am by singhg5 »
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singhg5

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Reply #2 on: September 30, 2012, 03:47:10 am
duplicate
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Arizoni

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Reply #3 on: September 30, 2012, 06:24:06 am
If the white plastic part that plugs into the harness is plugging into the two red (or orange) connectors behind the headlight, you can leave it out of the assembly.

It is the DOT required jumper that keeps the headlight on at all times.
If it is ommited and the two red (or orange) connecters are plugged into one another your headlight switch will suddenly actually work!
You will have your choice of OFF, PARKING LIGHTS or MAIN HEADLIGHT depending on where the switch is positioned.

IMO, it's a bad idea to ride without the headlight on but it can be useful to have it off when you first start the bike.  That extra 60-80 watts of power can help the starter on a cold day of when your battery is low on power.
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hortoncode3

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Reply #4 on: September 30, 2012, 11:00:58 am
I hope you figured out where the actual short is...or you'll be back to square one.


sparklow

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Reply #5 on: September 30, 2012, 04:33:46 pm
Anyone see a reason not to convert the three separate spade type connectors used to connect to the headlight to a ready made three prong plug type? Seems to me a lot simpler and neater solution than separate leads.
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motomataya

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Reply #6 on: September 30, 2012, 04:50:19 pm
You have the right answer Sparklow. Snip one out of a junk car or motorcycle and solder it in.


gremlin

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Reply #7 on: September 30, 2012, 05:56:39 pm
Those auto-style connectors are also available *NEW* for a couple bucks at your local autoparts store.  Remember to grease those connections !  The headlight area is subject to water accumulation & when those high amperage connections even begin to corrode they heat up.
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sparklow

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Reply #8 on: September 30, 2012, 06:20:43 pm
I've already bought a new three prong auto type connector. I will be installing it and probably removing the white jumper in the headlamp housing as well. Thanks for your thoughts on the matter.
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barenekd

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Reply #9 on: September 30, 2012, 08:21:08 pm
I just trimmed the headlight prongs down to a 1/4"
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Pauly

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Reply #10 on: September 30, 2012, 09:59:54 pm
ahhhh. i tried the plug converesion, it's too deep and it hits the speedometer cable

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whoguy

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Reply #11 on: September 30, 2012, 11:56:13 pm
I had the same thing happen to me!

Replaced with auto connector below, but did have to loosen and turn speedometer cable rearwards to make room for it.

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mattsz

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Reply #12 on: October 01, 2012, 12:51:34 am
Those auto-style connectors are also available *NEW* for a couple bucks at your local autoparts store.  Remember to grease those connections !  The headlight area is subject to water accumulation & when those high amperage connections even begin to corrode they heat up.

+1

My low beam began to flicker and fail just a few weeks into ownership.  I don't know how long it was a problem since I was riding in daylight. It wasn't until it started getting darker on my morning commute that I was made aware of the problem.  I switched to high beam (stock 5 3/4 inch low beam is crummy anyway).  When I changed to the 7 inch kit, I found the low beam connector on the stock lamp lightly corroded.  Cleaned up the plugs and dielectric greased the new connections... good to go!


Bulletman

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Reply #13 on: October 01, 2012, 07:20:19 pm
ahhhh. i tried the plug converesion, it's too deep and it hits the speedometer cable
If I had only waited for this thread to continue. I did the same thing and it will not fit. 
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #14 on: October 01, 2012, 07:22:03 pm
My plug conversion worked with the stock 5 3/4" but I had to go back to individual connectors when I upgrade to the 7".

Scott