[Variateur]

My new-ish 2011 C5 EFI (5000 km) is misbehaving...

The bike was only recently fully serviced at the local Enfield dealer.  Engine ran fine for ~ 150km, but has now taken on a annoying habit of misfiring / stuttering for the first 10-15 mins. Then it seems to free up...Next day it does the same again. 

1) I've changed sparkplug to the recommended NGK Iridium NGK BPR6EIX - I first thought this fixed it...but next ride - misfiring / stuttering again.

2) Emptied and checked fuel tank - no water.

3) Checked all the wiring that I could reach (but not under the tank.)

4) Disconnected the side stand switch - no change.

The problem seems to be intermittent - sometimes it runs just fine.

Suggestions?

[JVS]

Make sure that the spark-plug cap is sitting adequately on teh spark plug i.e. when it makes a 'click' noise when you put the cap on the plug.

As it was recently serviced, another thing you can check is the air filter. Maybe the dealer over-oiled the filter. Open the RH air filter panel/box and check for oil drops inside that panel. Try blowing compressed air from the outside to inside of the filter. (Pretty sure it's outside to inside?  )

Other members will have better suggestions. Good luck 

[Variateur]

Thx - sparkplug cap is OK, even tried without - same result.  No oil visible in air filter - all good there. Also checked all seals on EFI / intake - all good.

[Desi Bike]

Cooler weather? Mine will do the same unless its warmed up. I've always equated it to condensation build up in the system. Once warmed up it is fine. Maybe a hotter plug? Mine is based in southern Ontario and the cooler mornings do make for the odd stumbles like you stated until it I'd fully warmed up.

[barenekd]

My new-ish 2011 C5 EFI (50000 km) is misbehaving...

I am guessing it's not really up to 50000 km.
My G5 did that when the side stand switch wire was loose. I would say for starters just look for another loose connection, not so much under the tank, but around the battery area and casquette.
Bare

[Variateur]

I'm in sunny Sydney, Australia. Spring weather here with 20-25 deg Celsius.... Doesn't seem to be the weather either. It idles smooth for first 30 seconds and then dies on idle...  . I can manage to keep it running by opening the throttle but it runs rough for the next 10-15 minutes.

[idk]

Do you have a habit of opening the throttle when starting the bike? On another manufacturer's bike that I ride that can cause your symptoms. Try starting without touching the throttle and see if that makes it any better.

Then again, these may just be random musings from someone who has no idea how the RE system works.

[Ducati Scotty]

Maybe your idle is just too low.  Some bikes with EFI run full enrichment for a short time when they start no matter how warm the engine is, then they fall to the usual EFI settings.  If the idle speed is too low then it could sputter until it's warm.

Best would be to check it with a tach, I think spec is around 1250 RPM.  But it's easy to just raise it a bit.  Unbolt the rubber boot on the throttle body so you can rotate it to the right a little, then tighten again.  You'll see a big brass screw on the top.  With the bike running just back that out a little and the idle should go up.  Once it's where you want it loosen the boot, rotate back, tighten again.

Scott

[Variateur]

Idle is good at approx 1100. It has the stuttering, cutting out behaviour even when I ride it with half throttle or while coasting or under load.

BTW the bike is only 5000 km old, I corrected my typo in the first post.

[barenekd]

Are you waiting for the light to go out on the MIL (malfunction indicator light) before you start the engine? When you first turn the key on, the ECU will be booting up and checking the engine. You shouldn't start it before the light goes out, about 3 seconds or so.
Bare

[Ducati Scotty]

If it won't run smooth at half throttle when cold idle speed is not your problem.  Is your dealer far?  I would say your easiest path is just to take it to him.  I'd say it sounds like a loose connection but I wouldn't expect that to get better as it warms up.  Hmmmm....

Definitely wait for the red engine light to go out before starting.  Some bikes it doesn't matter, some bikes that solves a lot of problems.

Scott

[Variateur]

Yep... Starts up and idles fine...
Yes, I'm always waiting for the MIL light to go out and then it starts on first click. (No throttle)... 30 seconds later it goes stutter and dies.

[barenekd]

You could play with the big brass screw on the top of the injector, jsut don't forget where you started with it. IT sounds like it mght be a bit rich and loading up, but in any case, try turning the big screw about  the width of the slot first clockwise a few steps as you test it on each one If it gets worse, go the other way. Just don't forgot where you started, it doesn't take much of a turn to make a difference. You probably won't much past an eighth of a turn either way.
At least, that one is free and easy!
Bare

[Arizoni]

It does sound like some sort of electrical problem to me.
A wire that looks plugged in but isn't?
  Perhaps in the rats nest inside the casquette or the wires that are coming out of the right side cover and plug into the harness behind the top of the engine?  These carry the alternator output and the crank position sensor output.

Then, there's the various relays and switches in the left side cover(s) and under the seat that might be only partially plugged in.

The wiring at the ignition coil might be another place to look.

edit:  I just noticed this only happens when the engine is cold so maybe my suggestions aren't valid but knowing that everything is plugged in correctly might make checking everything worthwhile.

[GlennF]

battery voltage?
02 sensor faulty ?
or an air leak in inlet or exhaust manifolds confusing the sensor ?

[SimonT]

i was going to suggest battery voltage too...

This happened in my RX8.. chased the problem for a while.. until i replaced the battery. Ran smooth after that.

[Ducati Scotty]

These batteries do kinda suck.

[Tri750]

The only time we had a RE do something like this, it was a clogged injector. Started out like yours then got worse in time. You may add some known quality injector cleaner to see if symptoms change. Doubtful it will fix it, but if it changes, well there you go. We replaced the injector under US warranty.
Duc Sco is correct, on the battery. Check static volts, and what it drops to with key on, then when cranking. After startup, it should recover within a minute or so.

[whoguy]

Hi Variateur,

Also check the connector from the ignition switch under the caskeet.

Mine was half way off and kind of flopping round a bit... surprised bike didn't die while on the freeway. The locking tab on the connector wasn't locking properly, so a little bit of bendy bendy sorted it out.