Sorry, this has to be done inside the nacelle.the way *I* would do this is:1. remove the speedometer assembly2. modify the wiring between the connector and the display unit.specifically:cut the black with white stripe wire, connect anode side of diode to connector side of wire, connect cathode side of diode to display wire.cut the black with green stripe wire, connect the anode side of diode number 2 to connector side of wire.cut the black wire. reconnect the black wire along with the remaining black with green wire end.reinstall the speedometer, and, you should be good to go !
I got the same kit from a different manufacturer. I am waiting to learn to solder before installing this. Mine came with written instructions and will post it here later today.
Thanks Gremlin, Which is the Anode side and which is the Cathode side?. I am assuming one is probably longer than the other. Do I need 2 of these Diode Units?. I only ordered ONE. Damn I knew this was not going to be easy
.......................I'm not sure why all of this should be necessary because all that is really being done is to have the incandescent light bulbs replaced with a much lower wattage LED bulb................
Hmm... time for me to break out the old schematic.
this is how the factory wired it up ......
I have a g5 but your flasher unit is probably in your left toolbox. With the box open and the trafficator blinking you might be able to hear or feel the relay click to know it's the right little black box.
I know they are different but the G5 locates the turn signal relay in the left hand triangular side box. There are three little black plastic boxes in there and the signal relay is the only one with three wires connected to it. The terminals are two in line and one at 90 degrees to the other two.This unit is a solid state device that does not make a clicking sound when it is in operation.Again, knowing it doesn't apply to the C5, in the left hand hot dog container are three larger plastic relays. I mention this because the smaller size of the turn signal unit is one of the things to look for. That and the three wire connection.
It's not difficult.the single kit you ordered is all you need. The webpage shows 2 diodes already connected together at their cathodes.
Hmmm..... the black wire (ground) should also have the black with green stripe from the indicator lamp (speedo side). The other side of the black with green stripe from the connector should be connected to the diode.
one more diagram ....... this is the wiring modification.
Good Luck, let us know how things turn out for you.
Good Luck, let us know how things turn out for you.I'd recommend checking the health of your new LED lamps since your stock lamps work normally. I would think they should light-up in unison with the indicator.
The original wiring uses a "sneak" current arrangement to illuminate the turn signal indicator. the small lamp in the speedo lights up, and, the "other side" turn signal bulbs provide the path to ground.example:you turn on the right turn signal.right turn signal power is applied to the right side of the indicator bulbcurrent flows through the indicator bulb and into the left turn trafficator bulbs.(since the indicator lamp is an order of magnatude smaller than the trafficator bulbs it glows brightly while the trafficator bulbs do not reach their illumination point.)Left turns operate the left side circuitry, and apply power to the left side of the indicator bulb, while the right side lamps provide the ground return.
replacement of the indicator with an LED will be inconsequential to the rest of the circuitry. (OEM or otherwise)I'm wondering if your new trafficator LED units are making proper contact in their sockets .......Just to verify ...... 1. You have installed the diodes, the original trafficator bulbs, and everything appears to function nominally. 2. You swap out the trafficator bulbs with new LED replacements and they do not light up. Also, the indicator does light up - but does not flash.
........It is weird .....
Well, there is an easy fix.talk your local electronic hobbiest out of an 8 ohm 20 watt resistor. mount that resistor between the output of the flasher and ground.The purpose is to replace the load of the trafficator bulbs.
More important than the wiring is the actual mounting of such a heating element.You cannot mount it in the headlight housing. too much localized heat.It needs to be out where it can get good air circulation. If you have a B5 that would be somewhere behind the square sidecover on the bike's right side.Another important fact ...... I believe it will work to replace the need for a special flasher, however, I *do not* think it will make any difference to your LEDs that are failing to illuminate.
Bulletman,Autozone and virtually all auto shops have LED flasher units for $10-12. Take the unit from your C5 and pick one that has exactly the same connector configuration, and you will find that it will snap into your RE socket and work perfectly with the incandescents. The LED bulbs will require the diodes to prevent faint flashing of the opposite side lights. You will not need to add the resistor if you have the LED flasher.GSS
Please forgive me if this has already been mentioned, or is stupid, but...
replacement of the indicator with an LED will be inconsequential to the rest of the circuitry. (OEM or otherwise)I'm wondering if your new trafficator LED units are making proper contact in their sockets .......
Please forgive me if this has already been mentioned, or is stupid, but...Is it possible that the polarity of the LED bulbs is "backwards"? When I researched these lights for my BMW, some owners of those bikes had that problem. The LED "bulbs" they bought required positive voltage to the base housing, and ground to the isolated point in the base - opposite of what most light fixtures supply, yes?Bulletman, you said you tested the LED lights and they worked - did you test them mounted in the signal housings somehow? As we know, incandescents don't care about polarity, but LEDs definitely do! Do you need to somehow switch your hot and ground wires leading to your LEDs?
Mattz, it's a good question, I have changed all my other bulbs to LEDs over a month ago, and did not have a polarity issue.With that, I mean and I am assuming that the ground will be common throughout the whole wiring system because the indicator led bulb does light up, along with the other led,s That i have installed. All the same I will attempt to check the led in the trafficator Socket by trying to reverse the wires and see if that works. I haven't figured how to do that yet without undoing the setup or screwing things up. I'm working on it, though.
Take a look at reversing the wires at the flasher.Bare
When I installed my all metal bullet turn signals I found that the harness wiring was correct but the short leads that ran from the harness to the individual lights was reversed.That is, the "common" wire was hot and the "hot" wire was the ground.I ended up cutting and switching the wires at each signal using the little plastic "wire nuts" available at the local hardware store.
.................My Flasher has 2 wires One is Red with White Stripe and the Other wire is white. Would I need to then connect the Red with white stripe wire, to the White wire and vice versa? ...........
do *NOT* modify.
Bulletman - thank you for doing all the work and head-scratching! Now when I want to make that mod, I'll know just what to do... BTW, how do these compare to the stock incandescents? How much brighter, if at all (hard to quantify, I know), and how well do they show from the side?
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