No, no. Put in good oil. Top off fuel. Drive a minimum of 15 miles to get engine up to temperature at least 3 times per week until spring. GA-DK
Actually I use a steel wool pad or an SOS pad..the mice will eat the rag.
............The DOT uses massive amounts of salt around here so you don't want to ride a bike with any value...........
I do use WD40 in the summer time for a quick wipe over and clean up.
Cleaning up is basically all WD-40 is good for.Bare
............ What's the best approach to desalinating the bike? ..........
Wake up, winterizing thread!My question is, now what? What's the best approach to desalinating the bike? I don't have a pressure washer, so it will be a garden hose application. I have read the manual's advice, but it seems like there's probably salty goodness in amongst the parts they recommend I protect against any water.I'm hoping to find some ACF-50... does it go on everything? Is it easy to apply correctly, without over-applying?As for letting it rest with fresh oil, I did change the oil 281 miles ago (at 1486 miles), 2-½ weeks ago. Is it "clean" enough for winter storage?.
Too funny, Bare! It's true though. I actually use WD-40 in a tub for parts cleaning. Gets light gunk off without flash rust like chem-dip, but that's about all it's well suited for.
WD40 is not recommended for switches and contacts, it attracts and traps dirt and grime that eventually can interfere with electrical functions.
As for letting it rest with fresh oil, I did change the oil 281 miles ago (at 1486 miles), 2-½ weeks ago. Is it "clean" enough for winter storage?
I'll rephrase this part of my question for clarity. I understand that used oil can become acidic and "eat up" internal engine parts if left sitting over the winter, which is why an oil change just before storage is recommended. I have 281 miles on my current oil, which I changed 3 weeks ago (Mobil-1 V-Twin 20w-50 synthetic). Is this "used" enough that I should consider changing it again? I have 1486 miles total.
Any thoughts on what I should do, if anything, about taking the stress off the tires? It's on the center stand, so obviously the rear is ok, but what about the front? There's so little pressure in it, but I could block up the frame to get both tires off the ground...
I wouldn't use blocks too risky.
Simple green and the other purple cleaner can will work great but:This has come up before in other threads..........simple green and aluminum do NOT get along............simple green and the other purple cleaners are strong base cleaners ( sodium hydroxide) and all warn about aluminum corrosion and marking/ discoloring and other problems.Simple Green is not allowed on airports because of this aluminum corrosion concern.......they do have an aircraft safe version of simple green.Some carb bodies are a zinc alloy and not aluminum but the corrosion concern are the same.
A lot of people agreed - it kind of scared me away from Simple Green. Any experience using it on our bikes' aluminum?
ACF-50 is an anti-corrosion fluid that is supposed to just stay on the bike and prevent corrosion. Actually it works quite well as it doesn't just dry up like WD-40.
Last winter in Minneapolis I rode at least a couple times a month. The DOT uses massive amounts of salt around here so you don't want to ride a bike with any value. We will see if we get a real winter this year.
.............what routine procedure should I use once a week or so to get the ordinary salt and sand off the bike? .................... Is ordinary gentle dish soap okay?To be clear: my bike is new and I want to keep it clean and in good running order. But it's a daily riding bike that lives in New York City. So I expect it to accumulate the ordinary marks of wear, and don't need it to be in showroom condition.
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