Author Topic: Engine Shine  (Read 9461 times)

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blaisecardoz

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on: August 21, 2012, 01:58:18 pm
I own a UCE Electra 5S.. engine is lossing its chrome shine due water stains.. is there any solutions in the market to get the shine back. And remove the stains.


wildbill

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Reply #1 on: August 21, 2012, 02:30:24 pm
any good metal polish which is suitable for alloy. try a local auto accessory shop
before




after







TWinOKC

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Reply #2 on: August 21, 2012, 02:46:59 pm
I like NEVR-DULL available at auto stores everywhere, comes in a can has a gauze/wadding material.  Very non abrasive, takes a little elbow grease though.  Works good.
http://www.superiorcarcare.net/eo104.html
 ;) 
« Last Edit: August 21, 2012, 06:22:07 pm by TWinOKC »
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Fogrunner

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Reply #3 on: August 21, 2012, 03:07:01 pm
Looks good all shined up, but I know it's a lot of hard work. Good muscle building routine!!
Phil
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hortoncode3

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Reply #4 on: August 21, 2012, 03:26:18 pm
I was under the impression it was a clear coat over the metal components..so I would go easy on the cleaners..


tooseevee

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Reply #5 on: August 21, 2012, 04:10:16 pm
I own a UCE Electra 5S.. engine is lossing its chrome shine due water stains.. is there any solutions in the market to get the shine back. And remove the stains.

            Are the UCE chaincase covers (etc) chrome?
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


blaisecardoz

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Reply #6 on: August 21, 2012, 04:20:48 pm
chain case is not chrome.. just the engine and silencer
« Last Edit: August 21, 2012, 04:32:35 pm by blaisecardoz »


TWinOKC

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Reply #7 on: August 21, 2012, 04:28:56 pm
            Are the UCE chaincase covers (etc) chrome?

I would say the engine cases are polished aluminum.
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Fogrunner

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Reply #8 on: August 21, 2012, 04:33:24 pm
I would say the engine cases are polished aluminum.
I am thinking the same thing. Shiny, but not chrome.
Phil
2012 G5 Classic


Bulletman

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Reply #9 on: August 21, 2012, 04:56:25 pm
The BEST of the BEST for your RE Engine shine is a product called
"SimiChrome". Your engine (aluminium or alloy or any metal) your Forks, and your Chrome will Shine and you will very impressed with the results. I have been using the same for about the time i got my bake, which is since June 30 2012.
Its takes just a little bit of elbow grease (use gloves) and you will be able to see your face in the shiny engine (in case you are camping and need to shave or use it as a mirror  ;D or ... you know what i mean.  Google it ( its made in Germany ) but its available from Ebay/Amazon for about $30.00 a can. I use it about every 2 weeks and it maintains a great shine, while at the same time covers the metal with a light protective covering
Cheers.
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Bulletman

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Reply #10 on: August 21, 2012, 05:21:10 pm
check out this link/post. There are a few pics of my bike, the last time i polished it was over 2 weeks ago.
http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/forum/index.php/topic,15054.0.html
 :)
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Ducati Scotty

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Reply #11 on: August 21, 2012, 06:13:31 pm
The engine side cases are just polished aluminum, no chrome or clear coat.  They polish up pretty easily with any of the metal polishes mentioned above.  A coat of AC50, wax, or just a wipe over with diesel will help protect the shine and keep them looking shiny longer.  Don't let them get too grungy.  If they pit or corrode severly you may not be able to get them looking like new again.

Scott


gremlin

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Reply #12 on: August 21, 2012, 06:45:57 pm
*WHY* would I want them looking like new ?

I'm interested in finding a way to preserve that old patina....  (just before it starts pitting).

 
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tooseevee

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Reply #13 on: August 21, 2012, 08:47:23 pm
I would say the engine cases are polished aluminum.

            I would say so, too. The only reason I asked is that the original poster used the word. I hope they never (in caps) chrome plate the aluminum & then clearcoat it.

              Simi-Chrome is the best.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


Hobbydad

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Reply #14 on: August 22, 2012, 07:24:47 am
*WHY* would I want them looking like new ?

I'm interested in finding a way to preserve that old patina....  (just before it starts pitting).

Wait until it gets just the right amount of "age" then clear coat it like they do with the old hot rods to preserve the look.
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gremlin

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Reply #15 on: August 22, 2012, 01:17:37 pm
Wait until it gets just the right amount of "age" then clear coat it like they do with the old hot rods to preserve the look.

Any need to neutralize (fix) it first ?
How to clean it (prep) for uniform adhesion ? 
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tooseevee

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Reply #16 on: August 22, 2012, 03:35:50 pm
Any need to neutralize (fix) it first ?
How to clean it (prep) for uniform adhesion ?

            Just be ready to deal with it peeling off down the road. Your prep work has to be top shelf & use the best clearcoat out there (Eastwoods?). Also it's a good idea to bake each piece in the oven at 150F or so for a couple hours. That'll make it last a little longer. And a little luck helps.

             Personally I wouldn't clearcoat the aluminum on a general use motorcycle. A show bike maybe. It's a mess when it starts to peel. If you're gonna rattle can it, get Eastwoods best.   
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


Ducati Scotty

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Reply #17 on: August 22, 2012, 07:39:43 pm
Since it's a small piece and not a whole car AC-50 would probably do just as well to preserve your 'patina'.  Just let it get to where you want it, wash to remove anything on there, then spray.  You'll need to respray once in a bit or after you wash it but that's quick and easy.

Scott


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Reply #18 on: August 23, 2012, 09:28:49 am
We use a product called FLITZ that works great.  You can buy it through Amazon, but can probably find it other places as well.


drbvac

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Reply #19 on: August 24, 2012, 08:33:57 pm
Autosol - works very well on all metal and not all that abrasive.
Dr B


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Reply #20 on: August 28, 2012, 04:31:34 am
Autosol - works very well on all metal and not all that abrasive.

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