[Dallastheologian]

The rear chain adjustment cams that are on the back axel of my 11 b5 are a few notches off from each other. I have quite a bit of play (about 4 in) in the chain now. Can someone help walk me through adjusting them? Thanks in advance.

[Arizoni]

It isn't unusual for the number of notches on the snails to be unequal. 

As for adjusting the chain, that's covered on page 70 of the Owners Manual but I know there are folks who don't have one so I'll touch on the high points.

For tools you will need a pair of pliers, a 18mm, 24mm and  30mm wrenches or sockets.  A large adjustable wrench (Crescent Wrench) that can be opened up to 30mm or 1 3/16" can also be used.  A small soft mallet is also handy to have.
A felt tip pen is also handy for marking the present pin location on each snail.

With the bike on the center stand, first loosen the brake rod nut at the rear of the brake arm.

Remove the cotter pin (split pin) that goes thru the castellated nut.

Loosen (but don't remove) the castellated nut, the brake anchor nut and the large hex nut that is against the right side snail.

Rotate the snails on both sides of the bike an equal amount in a counter-clockwise direction to tighten the chain.

With the bike on the center stand, the chain should have about 2 inches (50mm) of movement total when pushed up and then pulled down about midway from the two sprockets.
If the bike is resting on its sidestand, this 2 inches will be reduced to a little over 1 inch of movement because of the location of the swing arms pivot point.

Once adjusted, lightly tighten the brake  rod adjusting nut to expand the brake shoes tight enough to keep the wheel from turning.

Tighten the large hex nut, the brake anchor nut and the castellated nut (in that order) and reinstall the cotter pin.

Adjust the brake rod nut to provide a suitable amount of brake pedal movement.
When doing this have the bike on the center stand and rotate the wheel.  It should rotate freely until the brake lever is depressed.

I like to check the wheel alignment when I'm doing a chain adjustment and IMO using a long straight stick or pole (aluminum tent poles work nicely) that is about 1 foot longer than the distance between the axles is about the easiest way.

Using a aluminum tent pole I snake it down under the center stand legs.  Pressing it against the side of the rear tire so that it rests ahead and behind the axle I look at the distance between the forward end and the front tire (with the front wheel pointed dead ahead).
I then check the other side of the rear wheel to the other side of the front tire.
If it is an equal distance on both sides, the rear wheel is aligned.

As I mentioned, it is normal for the rear snails to be in slightly different places and if you use the  pole method to align the rear wheel, don't worry about it.

[gremlin]

adjusters compensate for the chain stretch, and, for assembly quirks. (variations in frame jigging & welding )   So, don't put too much importance in the relative alignment of the two "snails".

it's better to get yourself a couple 8 foot pieces of aluminum angle at the hardware store to check wheel alignment.

[2bikebill]

Or see here for another method -
http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/wheelalignment.html

My LH snail cam is adjusted 2 notches more than the RH one when the wheels are aligned...

[Dallastheologian]

What is the brake anchor nut?

[2bikebill]

 Below & to the right of the snail. Apply rear brake before tightening it.

[hortoncode3]

I hate those snail "adjusters"..I heard someplace that we could change them out for Japanese type adjusters..they sure would be much easier to evenly adjust and have quite a bit more fine play..anyone have a link to some good ones?

[TWinOKC]

I hate those snail "adjusters"..I heard someplace that we could change them out for Japanese type adjusters..they sure would be much easier to evenly adjust and have quite a bit more fine play..anyone have a link to some good ones?

Here is a link http://nfieldgear.com/enfield-store/maintenance-repair/driveline/chain-adjusters.html

Personally I like the snails just fine.

 

[2bikebill]

I like em too, and I always know the wheels are lined up right.
I have a set of the new fangled ones for sale. Let me know if interested....

[Arizoni]

Not that it makes them good but the snail adjusters and the offset front axle date back to 1948 when Royal Enfield introduced their version of the tubular front forks and the swing arm rear suspension.

As for the screw type rear wheel and chain adjusters I'm sure they work well but the amount of adjustment is much more limited than the snails.

If you use one of these screw type adjusters and you have a RE that uses a 101 link rear drive chain like the G5 does, you will not be able to use a standard 102 link chain unless you remove a link and install a half link or you change the output sprocket from the factory 17 tooth sprocket to a 18 tooth sprocket.

Using one of these easily bought 102 link chains requires moving the wheel back quite a bit.  There  are only about 4 more notches to use on my snail before I have to change the chain or remove a link.

[motorat]

i hated the notch-snail the first time i used it but after i put a few sharpie marks on them i found them easier than my japanese(suzuki) adjusters.

[squire]

I haven't even picked up my RE yet but I prefer the snail type adjusters. I've had them on a few bikes, all Japanese, currently have them on a Yamaha and I've always thought they work great.........unless there's something about the RE adjusters I don't know!!!

[singhg5]

What is the brake anchor nut?

[JVS]

Thank you Arizoni, singhg5. Great help

[singhg5]

Thank you Arizoni, singhg5. Great help

You are welcome.

[barenekd]

Before tightening any of the nuts crank down the brake adjuster nut to laock the rear brake, then tighten the nuts. This will assure the rear brake shoes are both contact with the drum when you apply them. If you don't you may be trying to stop with one rear shoe in contact and will have poor brake performance. Your rear brake should be able to lock up the rear wheel.
When you are adjusting the chain, be sure to find the tight spot in the chain before you adjust it. You can find it by slowly rotating the wheel and feeling for the spot with the least movement. You will probably find a wide variation of slack in the cahin.
The best way to adjust that chain is to get a new good quality chain and throw the junk OEM one away. You can get a good quality non Oring chain fairly inexpensively. Better now than wait until the OEM one eats up your sprockets
Bare

[Arizoni]

Hey, hey! Singh.    Hadn't heard from you for a while and I was getting concerned.