Author Topic: Sprag clutch problem  (Read 12777 times)

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The Garbone

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Reply #15 on: August 21, 2012, 12:49:15 am
On the iron the rotor slides off after removing the crank bolt.   I imagine on the AVL it is pressed on but by looking at the Hitchcocks parts book it also has a woodruff key (red arrow) that keeps it from spinning on the shaft.    You may be able to walk it off using a flat wrecking bar inserted underneath, a rubber mallet and a 2x4 as a prop.   

I used the wrecking bar technique to remove my drive sprocket.  Being careful and moving the motor,  sorta a tap, move, tap, move type activity.

 I also made a spacer to put under the clutch center (using a big socket and wood) and used the center plate with the three bolts (no springs) to pull it off the spline.  You will need to walk the clutch and drive sprocket off at the same time as the chain really does not have all that much flex in it.

A nice rubber mallet is your friend.
« Last Edit: August 21, 2012, 12:52:03 am by The Garbone »
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


ridgerunner

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Reply #16 on: August 21, 2012, 04:29:29 am
thanks for the input.
08 Bullet ES (AVL)
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KB8ANY

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Reply #17 on: September 24, 2012, 02:45:24 pm
It sounds like you have the skills to just take the sprag clutch out.

That's what I ended up doing, and a whole host of problems just went away.  It is not a complicated job, although you have to take the (left side) primary cover off to get at the gear train.

I don't recommend leaving the sprag clutch in there if it is bad - even without the load presented by the starter the loose dogs will eventually end up damaging the shaft, which means that if you ever want to go back to electric start you will have to replace the shaft, too.

Good luck.

Paul