[R.T Robertson]

I am completely new to the RE owners club and am having an issue with the kick starter not grabbing and making compression. Is it a fluid thing or mechanical issue, it wants to try to make compression with a half stroke then just goes limp.I have tried rocking it back and forth in gear to make it have a little compression and it just gives me a little bite. I could really use some help if anyone knows anything it would be helpful, I am in the dark..

[Arizoni]

Welcome to the RE forum.
It would be helpful if you could tell us the year and model and size of the engine on your motorcycle.

The kick starter is mechanical and it drives the engine thru the clutch.
If you are holding the clutch lever in against the handgrip that could explain your problem.

If you are kicking it over without touching the clutch lever it may be something else.

For instance, one stroke on the kick starter lever rotates the engine further than 1/2 revolution.  Often this will include the compression stroke where resistance is felt, to past the compression stroke where the engine will seem to be 'free wheeling".

It is during this 'free wheeling' time that the crankshaft can pick up speed to force the piston thru its cycles and (hopefully) thru the next compression stroke.

On some models there is also a decompression lever that must be dealt with.

[neil]

Hello RT I'm a fellow neophyte with a 2004 bullet 65 which I have converted from elec. start to kick only. Don't ask why. The kick start mechanism turns the crankshaft through the clutch and gear box. Get the bike in neutral with the ignition switch off and begin the drill from there. check the decompressor to be sure it is opening and closing correctly. The kickstarter should turn freely if the decompressor is open. Then release the decompressor and the kicking should be very difficult when the piston comes up on compression. It will take at least two kicks to bring the piston through the 4 stroke cycle.

If it feels the same both times, ie decomp open and decomp closed, your decomp is stuck open or your clutch is slipping badly.Check each and fix whichever one is the cause of the problem. If you can't solve that then get ahold of someone who can assist you.

Neil

[R.T Robertson]

It is a 1999 Enfield bullet 500. Kick Start only no electric start. I bought it recently and it came without the decompression lever cable attached. It has been a little rough getting it going but has worked and was working and shifting fine. It was running, I stopped and got off for 5 minutes and got back on and it just would not do anything? I have a feeling it is something simple but I am so new to this bike that I really have no idea.

[m1ks]

If it's all new to you, start with the basics and get everything set right. Check valve clearances, soak plug, contract breaker points etc.
If the decomp removed completely and blanked with a bolt? If not, even though the cable is removed you will be able to push it open with your thumb.
Watch hoohoohoblins very useful videos on YouTube, just search for the name to find his channel then search his channel for bullet videos, you'll see the how to on points, clutch, starting, oil change, tappets and so on.

[R.T Robertson]

I believe that the problem is stemming from the decomp valve being open. The clutch was working fine. I do have the valve in the motor, the cable is missing though. How do I close that valve manualy? Thanks for all the tips

[The Garbone]

Neither or my bikes have a cable. I just push it down with my thumb.  It shoud spring back.  You could pull the decomp and make sure its clean and not fauled with carbon.

Another thing to check is that your valves/pushrods are set up properly. 

It could also be clutch slip as stated above.

How many miles are on the motor? 

 It could be the rings are not seated in well due to low miles or if your breather line is clogged you may have had the rings unseat and this will make you loose compression.   

[R.T Robertson]

I think it has something to do with the decomp valve. I cant make it do anything, up or down. I also cant seem to find a wrench or socket that fits over it, the collar on top of the spring is preventing the wrench from reaching the head of the valve. I can get the bike to grab while kicking if I take the plug out and use my thumb to regulate the pressure. When I put the plug back in no grab?

[The Garbone]

If you have the factory tool kit the spark plug socket will do the trick.  Since you have no cable attached you should be able to fit It right over,  if you had a cable you would have to threat the cable through the tool. If you remove the cotter pin on the decomp doodad it will fall apart and drop bit into the cylinder so be careful. 

You might be able to squirt it with some lube and loosen it up without removal.

[Blltrdr]

Leave 28/29 together then depress decomp spring 26 and remove cap 27 & spring. You should be able tom put a socket on it to remove it.

[R.T Robertson]

Still have not got it figured out... I took it to a mechanic who believes it has something to do with the gear box, long story short it is going to be an  expensive exploratory investigation. Not the way I wanted to start out with the RE.

[The Garbone]

Were are you located R.T.?

[R.T Robertson]

South of Austin,TX 35 miles, Luling. I am just super frustrated with this bike all together. It was fun to ride for the 2 days it ran, I am not looking for a money trap though.

[The Garbone]

Not so much a money trap as a learning curve.  An eccentric piece of old machinery. 

On the 4 speed bikes you will have to give special attention to the clutch cable adjustment if the bike sits a bit between rides.    The adjustment tends to be very touch and the cable will stretch and shrink with use.   

 You will start out with a bit of slip.  (not be able to push the tdc) I turn the feral on the bar 1/2 a turn in and it will usually start grabbing fine.  As you ride the cable will start to stretch to a point were the clutch will drag and hinder easy shifting. At that point I add a 1/4 or so at a time back to the feral on the bar.   

After a day or two of good riding the cable will settle in and these adjustment will not be required, I guess a solution would be to buy a better quality cable than stock and solve the issue but once you get a feel it is no big deal. Just the nature of the design.

[Blltrdr]

Is your mechanic familiar with the Bullet. Would hate to see you pay someone to learn on the job. Most owners can get through there problems using this forum. I would suggest working through the problems on your own or it will become the money trap your not looking for.