Author Topic: Weeping forks  (Read 11578 times)

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boggy

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on: June 27, 2012, 02:51:53 pm
My forks began weeping last season, right above the fork gators on my AVL.  No real major drips but I've seen a few small trails.  I'm hoping this is as simple as a new set of fork seals. I have the Snidal manual but the process still seems a bit mysterious to me.  Searching the forums has pulled up anything terribly helpful yet.  I'm sure I'll need to check the fluid level in there too.

I'm looking for a little advice on this process.

Thanks,
Boggy
2007 AVL
2006 DRZ400SM


AgentX

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Reply #1 on: June 27, 2012, 04:36:26 pm
Weeping forks are caused by one of two things:

1)  Low self-esteem at the oil seals

2)  Fork stanchions feeling sympathy for some other part on the bike that is in a painful state of disrepair

I suggest you use an emotionometer at the likely points of failure to check.  But don't use the word "failure" while checking, or the problem may become more aggravated.


barenekd

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Reply #2 on: June 27, 2012, 05:41:57 pm
I haven't done RE forks specifically, but on all the other English bikes I've done it's: Remove the front wheel and fender braces/mounts. Remove the fork caps. Take the springs out. Drain the fork oil. Remove the bolt that holds the slider on. Pull the sliders off. Pry the old seals out with a screwdriver. Be careful not to dig into the slider metal. Drive the new seals in with a socket slightly smaller than the OD of the seal. Put a little oil on the seals. Reassemble the slider, add fork oil, put the springs back in. 
Bare
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boggy

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Reply #3 on: June 27, 2012, 08:14:24 pm
Fork stanchions feeling sympathy for some other part on the bike that is in a painful state of disrepair
Sympathy or fear whenever it sees its owner approaching with tools is more like it.

Bare, I was cautiously nervous about this repair before, but now I'm down right terrified.
2007 AVL
2006 DRZ400SM


ohio2006Electra

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Reply #4 on: June 27, 2012, 11:13:30 pm
My forks began weeping last season, right above the fork gators on my AVL.  No real major drips but I've seen a few small trails.  I'm hoping this is as simple as a new set of fork seals. I have the Snidal manual but the process still seems a bit mysterious to me.  Searching the forums has pulled up anything terribly helpful yet.  I'm sure I'll need to check the fluid level in there too.

I'm looking for a little advice on this process.

Thanks,
Boggy
My 2006 AVL is doing the same thing. It started at around 1500 miles  :( Ive lived with it up until now and Im close to 3000 miles on the bike. It has not gotten any worse than when it started 1500 miles ago but the time is approaching to undertake this task or let the dealer have a turn at it


barenekd

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Reply #5 on: June 27, 2012, 11:18:51 pm
The AVL forks are the same as the G-5. As I look at the manual, it looks like a real PITA! There are some special tools called for, but not having done it myself, I'm not sure what is really required and if the job can be done without them!
Their manual is rather confusing. It looks like the lowers can be pulled and leave the rest of the forks intact. If that's true, the job won't be bad, and you don't need any special tools. If you have to take the rest of the forks out of the triple tree then it's a pain, but looking at the drawings, that doesn't appear to be true. It looks like that once you drain the oil and take that big cap off the bottom, the lowers should just slide off complete with the seals.
Not quite as easy as good old Tri/BSAs, or is it?
When mine start leaking, I'll give them a shot!
Bare

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jartist

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Reply #6 on: June 28, 2012, 12:19:27 am
Taking the whole fork assembly off the bike and out of the casquett is easy. Getting the nut that bolts the lowers to the plunger is near impossible! I will try to dig out the seal and replace with the whole fork off the bike and the upper and lower still attached when it's time to do mine.


boggy

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Reply #7 on: July 02, 2012, 03:35:39 pm
Took at look at things this weekend.  Given my lack of garage space, and relatively novice level of mechanics, I think if I want to get this sorted out I'd have to have some proper help.  Man, I don't like the idea of bringing my Bullet to a garage to work on.  Place near here services the new Enfields so maybe they know what they are doing.  I don't think this is something I could pull off though.
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2006 DRZ400SM


GreenMachine

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Reply #8 on: July 02, 2012, 04:07:03 pm
Boggy: Might now be a bad idea especially if u don't have a area to do the job with tools, rags, drain container, etc...Somewhat related, sons CBR 1000rr had a small leak (1 seal bad)..The Honda tech replaced the top seals on both forks in about 45 minutes (Only one was leaking, we decided to replaced both anyway)..Of course he does them all the time and the procedure apparently is not as labor intensive as the Enfield (The forks on the Honda stayed somewhat in place and he used a special tool to install the seals). I will do mine when the time comes as I don't have access to a  shop that I feel is qualified to work on my machine..That stated I'm in no hurry and can keep the enfield in my garage for as long as it takes. Like anything else, once u done it, the second time is easier and faster.Find out if they have done this procedure..Good luck and let us know how it works out for you..GM
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boggy

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Reply #9 on: July 02, 2012, 07:53:35 pm
Find out if they have done this procedure..

That is some good advice.  Thanks.  I've read that it is not easy and without the correct tools, things can break.  I do worry about my Bullet going missing for a few weeks while they try and make heads/tales of things.

Thanks.
2007 AVL
2006 DRZ400SM


singhg5

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Reply #10 on: July 04, 2012, 06:22:28 pm
The lowers can be pulled out - so called 'details' in pictures from Service Manual
 
To read text, place cursor on the picture, RIGHT click and Open in New Tab.  Then go to New Tab, place cursor on the text - it will become + sign. Left click and whole page will become large and readable easily. 
« Last Edit: July 04, 2012, 06:27:58 pm by singhg5 »
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singhg5

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Reply #11 on: July 04, 2012, 06:23:06 pm
contd. page 2
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Arizoni

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Reply #12 on: July 04, 2012, 11:06:12 pm
When removing the seal the manual makes reference to a special tool # ST 25114-4 and shows a screwdriver being used to pry the seal out.
This special tool seems to be nothing more than a hollow sleeve that will fit over the end of the fork tube and rest on a small shoulder.

In my reading I seem to recall that the aluminum used to make the fork tubes is very brittle and easily cracked/broken if you pry directly on it.
It might be worthwhile to try to find a piece of steel, copper or even PVC pipe to use for "the tool".
Jim
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baird4444

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Reply #13 on: July 06, 2012, 03:49:37 am
a hose clamp will werk fine to "lever" or pry against....
careful, they crack easily.
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Lwt Big Cheese

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Reply #14 on: July 06, 2012, 07:14:51 am
I need to do my seals. I also was advised that things crack easily and take it carefully.
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