Author Topic: Clutch Cable 5 Speed  (Read 5073 times)

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Roger

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on: May 12, 2008, 11:56:55 am
Hi Everyone,

Haven’t posted for a while but have enjoyed reading about the goings on, on the forum. Winter is nearly upon us here in Australia and depending where you live it can be cold and miserable or if you live in Queensland where I do it is absolutely fabulous! Cool morning with temps in the low 50s (10°C+) and warm days with temps in the mid 70s (25°C+) and it stay mostly like this through to September then it starts to get hot again.

I have read a number of posts relating to broken clutch cable and have been waiting for mine to do the same, however as a precaution I bought a premium clutch cable from CMW to install when it happens. Well it almost happened but I changed it out before it did.

I was starting to notice the clutch cable would go out of adjustment quite quickly and after a while decided to have a look at the cable end in the gear box. Shock Horror!! The cable had become badly frayed and was but a few strands from parting company with the cable end. (See picture)

You will notice the cable has NOT been fitted correctly into the lever at the factory and had the cable broke the cable end would have ended up in the bottom of the gear box.

I fitted the new premium cable I bought from CMW and what a difference. The clutch feels to have a slightly heaver pull but the action is firm and not spongy like it was before. I have also noticed that even after riding for and hour or so the clutch action remains good with no hard shifting, neutral easy to select when stopped and engaging first gear is a nice and clean. Incidentally the premium cable end is not like the OEM cable end it is a standard end however the cable is so much better then the OEM cable I doubt it would ever break.

Can I suggest everyone with a five speed transmission check to see whether the clutch cable has been fitted correctly? If it is and the cable breaks at the transmission end the cable end will remain in the lever and not fall to the bottom of the gearbox. If it isn’t it, may be wise to fit it correctly. 

Regards
Roger

 


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j.p. burrito

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Reply #1 on: May 12, 2008, 02:15:06 pm
Hey Roger,
Great post!  I was actually just logging on to ask about that same problem.  I have a new 08 military enfield with 380 miles and the clutch cable will not stay in adjustment and went out with today's morning traffic which was not that heavy.  I could not adjust it so I just took it back home and picked up my truck.  Thanks a lot for the pictures.
 I will have to check for these problems which seem quite likely.  I am new to motorcycle repair and might get it checked out at the dealer.  Would this be easy for a beginner to accomplish?  Could you describe the gearbox and the photos?  Or anyone else feel free to give me any advice.
Thank you!
-eric
« Last Edit: May 12, 2008, 02:26:45 pm by jpburrito »


cyrusb

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Reply #2 on: May 12, 2008, 04:32:40 pm
Good post, fortunately its real easy to check. It seems as though the factory is its own worst enemy....
2005E Fixed and or Replaced: ignition, fenders,chainguard,wires,carb,headlight,seat,tailight,sprockets,chain,shock springs,fork springs, exhaust system, horn,shifter,clutch arm, trafficators,crankcase vent.


Vince

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Reply #3 on: May 12, 2008, 05:09:18 pm
     Just for the record. There are tools to enable easy lubing of the cables, and special cable lubes Even if you just periodically hose them down with WD-40 you will tremendously lengthen cable life. Cable maintenance is a neglected area for most riders. I have a 1972 XS-2 with the original clutch and one of the throttle cables. My 1975 YZ-360 has the original clutch cable, It would still have the original brake and throttle cables if i didn't crash so much.


clamp

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Reply #4 on: May 13, 2008, 02:36:57 am
You guys are not reading your hand book.  Page 49, and I quote,  long trip precautions.

Items to be carried,
     tool kit,  first aid kit,
 
 Bulbs for headlamd trafficator, rear tail lamp and fuse.

    Accelerator , clutch, front brake and de -comp cables

  Rear chain link

 Spare tube, tyre puncture repair kit and, vulcanising type

 foot operated air pump

   Insulation tape

  Spark plug, cap and fuel hose.

    Crank shaft and piston,---No im kidding
I would never be a member of a cub that would have me as a member


Roger

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Reply #5 on: May 14, 2008, 08:28:35 am
Thanks everyone for the positive response to my post regarding the clutch cable. The photo discriptions are as follows:

Frayed OEM cable

Correct placement of OEM cable in clutch leaver

Frayed cable after removal

Removing the old cable was realitivily easy however fitting the new cable was a slight hassel as the slot in the clutch lever was slightly narrower then the diameter of the shank on the Premium cable end. Rather then remove the cover and file the slot I chose to file a small amount off the sides of the cable end (See picture) When I say a small amount I am talking around .020".

Roger

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PaulF

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Reply #6 on: May 15, 2008, 05:39:23 pm
Does this problem exist on the iron motor, AVL motor or both?


PhilJ

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Reply #7 on: May 15, 2008, 11:02:17 pm
I can't say about the iron engine, but on my 2008 AVL the anchor for the clutch cable is totally different than in Roger's photo. Mine just pulls straight back.

Phil


PaulF

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Reply #8 on: May 16, 2008, 12:23:10 pm
I can't say about the iron engine, but on my 2008 AVL the anchor for the clutch cable is totally different than in Roger's photo. Mine just pulls straight back.

Phil

That's what I wanted to hear. I was worried about space to carry all this stuff and spare, coiled-up cables take up alot of space. The toolboxes are big, but not that big.

Cheers.


Roger

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Reply #9 on: May 18, 2008, 04:59:57 am
I would be interested to see what the cable anchor looks like in an AVL engined gearbox. What concerns though is the angle of the clutch actuation lever is wrong causing the cable to bend rather then pull staright, adjusting the pushrod does not seem to correct this problem.

I noted the comment about the cable bending as the clutch is disengaged and the remedy is to remove the cover and open out the bottom of the cable slot so as to allow the cable to pivot rather then bend. I may have to bit the bullet "pardon the pun" and remove the outer cover on the gearbox and have serious look at the problem and engineer a better fix.

Roger


PhilJ

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Reply #10 on: May 19, 2008, 11:36:16 pm
If this picture thingy works for me, it will show, as best as I could get, the clutch cabe connection on the 2008 AVL 5 speed. To the left end is where the cable is attached. To the right is a connection to the clutch pall.

Ok, I don't know how to inser a picture. If someone could tell me I'll get one in here for you.

Phil

Never min I found in the help about posting pic. Seems I need one of those online picture deals. hrumph!!

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« Last Edit: May 20, 2008, 05:44:49 pm by PhilJ »


Roger

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Reply #11 on: May 20, 2008, 01:07:36 pm
PhilJ,

Click on Additional Options tab, then the browes button. This opens window where you can select where you want to take the picture from, ie My Pictures. I usually reduce the file size in to around 70k as this helps save on download for those who have a limited usage, like me. Lousy ISPs take your dough and give you nothing in return...

Roger


PhilJ

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Reply #12 on: May 20, 2008, 05:49:24 pm
Thanks Roger,
I tried editing the post with a pic. Not happy with the result will try again on this one.
Phil





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Roger

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Reply #13 on: May 23, 2008, 09:52:22 am
PhilJ

Thanks for the photos. A much better arrangement then what is on my classic... I suspect cable breakage has been a problem all along however with this new arangement cable breakage would I assume be greatly reduced. Incidently the arrangement on the Electra is not unlike what I have seen on many Japanese bikes.

Roger