Author Topic: Slow leak from oil feed banjo bolt?  (Read 5753 times)

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Superchuck

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on: June 14, 2012, 01:07:41 pm
So I recently retorqued my engine head bolts for the first time in response to what I thought was a slow oil leak/weap from the head gasket.  It wasn't, but I just realized after a long ride the other day that the oil feed bolt which goes into the side of the intake rocker had a few drops of oil on the outside, which seem to slowly be covering my engine.

It's a very slow leak so I'm not horribly worried about it, but I figured I'd post on here and see if anyone had any input as to the cause/effect of this situation.

Can I just tighten that big bolt to make the drip go away, or is there something else at work here?  Also, does anyone know why they call it a banjo bolt?  Because it's hollow perhaps?

Thanks in advance,

Chuck


tooseevee

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Reply #1 on: June 14, 2012, 01:33:29 pm
Also, does anyone know why they call it a banjo bolt?  Because it's hollow perhaps?

Thanks in advance,

Chuck

             They resemble a banjo; some more than others.
RI USA '08 Black AVL Classic.9.8:1 ACEhead/manifold/canister. TM32/Open bottle/hot tube removed. Pertronix Coil. Fed mandates removed. Gr.TCI. Bobber seat. Battery in right side case. Decomp&all doodads removed. '30s Lucas taillight/7" visored headlight. Much blackout & wire/electrical upgrades.


Thumper

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Reply #2 on: June 14, 2012, 02:53:19 pm
There's an aluminum crush washer on both sides of the banjo fitting. Our host can supply you with replacements. I've never had any problem with leakage on mine, and cannot say that it is mentioned much on this forum. I would think that with 4 new crush-washers and proper re-tightening (and I have no idea of what torque value)  the problem should go away.


Lwt Big Cheese

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Reply #3 on: June 14, 2012, 03:10:42 pm
I had a leak.

I tightened up the bolt.

Bolt snapped.

Replaced bolt and two copper washers with a new bolt and two new aluminium washers.

Tightened banjo bolt.

Leak stopped.
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Superchuck

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Reply #4 on: June 14, 2012, 04:06:30 pm
Yikes Cheese, i'm glad I asked...  I'll look into replacing the crush washers from a local hardware store... hope that works and a little tightening.  I'll see if snidal has a torque he recommends...

thanks all!

Chuck


Lwt Big Cheese

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Reply #5 on: June 14, 2012, 06:32:58 pm
I just tweaked it until it felt right.

It's an old bike, it may have been tweaked too much in any of it's previous years.

It's just the way it goes. FYI one has the original coper washers and a half width banjo. The other has the aluminium washes and a banjo that is twice as deep!
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Superchuck

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Reply #6 on: June 15, 2012, 08:07:46 pm
Good to know- I've been the sole owner of my bike.  Got it a year ago, so everything's stock in the banjo playin' department.  I think i'll try to hammer out the copper washers and just tighten it a little.

Thanks,

Chuck


Lwt Big Cheese

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Reply #7 on: June 16, 2012, 08:12:59 am
If you hammer the washers out there may be a danger of work hardening them.

Then you will have to heat them up with a torch and then quench to get them malleable again.

Wait for a bit and a grown up will come along and explain this correctly...
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Arizoni

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Reply #8 on: June 16, 2012, 08:00:20 pm
LBC is correct if the washers are made from copper, brass or bronze.
Aluminum won't work harden but IMO, whacking them with anything is a fine way to ruin them.

These washers must be perfectly flat in order to seal the joint.
I was going to say they must be smooth but the better ones actually aren't smooth.
They have dozens of concentric microscopic grooves cut into both faces.

Rather than forming or pounding the washers I would suggest using some Permatex "Ultra Black" gasket maker.
Unlike many of the Silicone RTV's that are corrosive and not resistant to oil the "Ultra Black" is non-corrosive and oil resistant.

It is also good to temperatures up to 500 degrees F which is a good 150 hotter than most air cooled engines will ever see.
Don't use much of it.  Just enough to wet both surfaces on each washer.

Link to Ultra-Black so folks can see what it looks like

http://www.permatex.com/products/automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_permatex_ultra_black_maximum_oil_resistance_rtv_silicone_gasket_maker.htm
Jim
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Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #9 on: June 18, 2012, 07:44:40 am
Buy two new factory correct washers. Call us at 800-201-7472. Ask us to put it in an envelope and mail it.
Don't screw around with hardware washers that may or may not be the correct alloy finish etc. Be CAREFUL when tightening as you are tightening into aluminum.
Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
www.cyclesidecar.com


Superchuck

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Reply #10 on: June 18, 2012, 08:40:30 pm
Sounds like the easiest approach will be to give Kevin a call and get some enfield specific washers.  I'll check it out first and see if it's not just a loose bolt, taking caution to not overtighten whatsoever.

Thanks for the insights all- i would've hated for this small leak to become a major fix!

Chuck


Kevin Mahoney

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Reply #11 on: June 19, 2012, 03:37:47 am
Please call Tim or Gary. I am in Vietnam at present and you would wait a long time for a call back. The good news is that a leak at the banjos on an AVL is really rare and should be fixed easily
Best Regards,
Kevin Mahoney
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Superchuck

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Reply #12 on: June 19, 2012, 04:29:11 pm
Great, thanks very much Kevin.

Will do.