Author Topic: Getting rid of the hump  (Read 2777 times)

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Mike_D

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on: June 05, 2012, 09:36:33 pm
So I'm thinking that when I replace the chain and sprockets on my 2003 ES Bullet and have the primary case off I may as well get rid of the hump -- remove the starter and replace the inner primary.  I've been reading around getting info on this and it looks like I have to machine the starter from the engine sprocket?  Can someone give me some more detail as to what this entails exactly?  Should I even been doing this??  I really don't like the hump but I'll keep it if it turns out to be too big a pain...


The Garbone

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Reply #1 on: June 05, 2012, 10:06:59 pm
Depends,  the kit comes with a new engine sprocket.  I bought a sprocket for mine and it had some lash in the splines so I had my original machined to remove the ES gear as it fit pretty snug.   

If the bike is RH shift that has to also be taken into account.
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
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95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
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Mike_D

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Reply #2 on: June 05, 2012, 10:11:09 pm
It is RH shift already....


Blltrdr

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Reply #3 on: June 05, 2012, 10:52:29 pm
I would assume you have the 4spd ES. If so it would be pretty easy to change over. You would need the inner and outer primary & fixings which I would think would bolt right on unless the bolt pattern was also changed for the 4spd ES as was the 5spd ES. A local machine shop machined the gear off my primary sprocket for $20.
2003 Classic 500 5 spd
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neil

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Reply #4 on: June 06, 2012, 03:41:22 am
Hello NYC bullet:
I dumped my E/S a couple of years ago and found it reduced the weight of my bike by 25 to 30 lbs. It also helps move the center of gravity to a point that is lower on the bike and more to the rear. It does help handling and every bit of weight you can shed makes the performance of the bike that much better, not to mention the nasty sprag word will be eliminated and further worries on that score are gone.

Mine is a lot more reliable since I got rid of it and the bike looks a lot better too.

Neil and Buzzy the Bullet.

ps If you have to drill the engine case to relocate the fittings, location - location - location is very important but the actual drilling tapping and fitments are not that difficult. Well worth the effort.


Bulletbaz

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Reply #5 on: June 06, 2012, 01:37:10 pm
Got rid of the hump on my Sixty5 back in 2010. Transforms the look of the bike I think, as well giving the piece of mind that it ain't going to break! (And as Neil said, there's a big weight saving too!). You can see pictures of my bike in gallery 31 of Members'Rides.


ace.cafe

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Reply #6 on: June 06, 2012, 02:53:05 pm
Dump the Hump!!!
Home of the Fireball 535 !


n1acguy

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Reply #7 on: June 07, 2012, 04:51:09 am
I agree with all the reasons for taking it off. I just did my 5 speed. I got the kit from Hitchcocks which included the tap, case to block gasket, hardware, seal for the gear change shaft, a new cover seal, and the gear.
Including using a tiny gel cell for a battery, I have a net weight loss of 25 lbs.
The previous owner of my bike went through considerable time and expense to make it as close to the way the 55 rolled off the line when it was still English as he could. The one thing left to do was get rid of the hump. Now the only evidence is where the starter bolted to the block. I guess there's not much I can do about that.
In hindsight, I should have done a right shift conversion which would have allowed a more period correct primary cover, shift and rear brake controls.
My 2ยข YMMV


Mike_D

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Reply #8 on: October 02, 2012, 07:16:27 pm
So I'm looking to dump the hump this week.  Got everything I need except confidence.  I'm terrified about drilling into the crankcase!  Any tips, words of wisdom or confidence boosters well appreciated.

Thanks  -- and though I am scared I must admit I'm rather pumped to be doing such a big job on my own......


The Garbone

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Reply #9 on: October 02, 2012, 07:41:21 pm
Actually I think you can drill out 3 holes in the new KS only inner primary case if it stresses you out.  I think the bolt pattern was changed for clearances on the ES that are not an issue with the kicker.  Just won't be as pretty when finished.

When I drilled out my case I used a wire to measure the depth of the already existing holes in the case then taped the bit as to be able to guage exactly the depth of the new hole to be tapped out.  It went well on mine except the rear hole developed a weep after a month or so.  I think that part of my casting was a bit crap and now it capilarys along the bolt. 

Remember, measure 3 times and drill once.
« Last Edit: October 02, 2012, 07:49:30 pm by The Garbone »
Gary
57' RE Crusader 250
67' Ford Mustang
74' Catalina 27 "Knot a Clew"
95 RE Ace Clubman 535
01 HD 1200 Custom
07 RE 5spd HaCK

* all actions described in this post are fictional *


Mike_D

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Reply #10 on: October 06, 2012, 12:44:19 am
Allright, pretty much done.  The drilling was insane but it went well cause I had help....

Anyway, realized I am missing the bearing between the clutch pushrod.  Anyway I can find one locally (new York city)?  It's a quarter inch yea?  Or am I stuck calling cmw?  Id hate to have this bearing keeping me from the road.

Also NYC area dudes....I obviously won't be making the ride tomorrow.  Really wanted this sorted before hand.....


baird4444

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Reply #11 on: October 06, 2012, 04:47:19 am
yes, just a 1/4" ball bearing or steel ball.
got any old school hardware stores around?? they should have.
     - Mike
'My dear you are ugly,
 but tomorrow I shall be sober and you will still be ugly'
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