[csbdr]

So the issue is my bike is dead...totally. And yes, I have a good battery. I tested and have no juice getting to the ignition switch and was wondering if the C5's have a single fuse which will cut off the whole bike?  I ran into a mechanic at the local convenience store who works at the classic bike repair I go to, and he was telling me the AVL's had one and if it went the whole bike would be dead. he wondered aloud if mine might.

All my fuses visually look OK, unless there is one not in the left hand panel. But, I know one might still be bad and have to test. Any hints where to start looking?

[GA-DK]

I have a 2009 G5, but fuse issue should be the same.  No other fuses except those on left by battery.  Check to make sure bike is in neutral
, or clutch is in.  Make sure side stand is folded.  Either one will kill ignition and starter.  GA-DK

[Ducati Scotty]

The clip connector to the keyed ignition switch can come apart and everything will die.  Look right inside the left side of the nacelle and you'll see it.

Mine kept getting squeezed and popping apart on left turns.  After several failed attempts to re-orient it I just zip tied it together.

Scott

[Arizoni]

I always hate it when someone suggests I spend money but in this case that is exactly what I'm going to do.

You need a little volt/ohm meter.  I've bought a cheapy at Harbor Freight for about $8 and a very nice on at Sears for less than $20. (It was on sale).

With one of these set to read resistance in Ohm's you can put each test lead on each side of the fuse to see if it really is conducting current.  It should have 0 (zero) ohms resistance.

You can also set the meter to read 20 volts DC and test the battery and all of the wiring connectors to see if voltage is getting that far in the harness.

[gremlin]

Looking at the schematic, I see a single 20 AMP fuse connecting the battery to the rest of the bike.  according to the manual it is FUSE #4.  just so you know ~ FUSES 1,2,and 3 are spares !  p.s.  all fuses are same rating.

[REpozer]

I always hate it when someone suggests I spend money but in this case that is exactly what I'm going to do.

You need a little volt/ohm meter.  I've bought a cheapy at Harbor Freight for about $8 and a very nice on at Sears for less than $20. (It was on sale).

With one of these set to read resistance in Ohm's you can put each test lead on each side of the fuse to see if it really is conducting current.  It should have 0 (zero) ohms resistance.

You can also set the meter to read 20 volts DC and test the battery and all of the wiring connectors to see if voltage is getting that far in the harness.

   Just adding to the good advice of Arizoni.    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oRhBImNYITg   Instead of a thermal cutoff for a cloths dryer,..pretend he is testing and old glass fuse the same way.

[csbdr]

Well I'm having no luck so far. I do have an ohm-meter and circuit tester already, so that's good. I tested all 3 fuses and have continuity across each. I also checked the cutoff switch on the side stand was not in the mix, but that would only shut down the ignition, not the whole bike. I have nothing.

I checked the block connector for the ignition switch and that was tightly connected. Should I be able to find a "live" wire going into the ignition switch? I can't. I wasn't sure if I should or not.

I'm still thinking the switch itself. This is the second one, and it was starting to need a "jiggle" to get it to connect when I put it away last year. First one rotted out and this one shows some corrosion under the rubber boot.

[Tiny Tim]

1. Use a volt meter set to DC volts and confirm you have 12v at battery
2. Keep the +ve on the red and move the -ve lead to the engine casing. If you don't get 12v then it's a bad earth or bad -ve battery terminal
3. put the -ve back on the battery and test the red wire on the back of the ammeter in the nacelle. If you don't get 12v then it's a bad connection to the ammeter.

All power goes via the ammeter except the starter and starter solonoid. My $5 is on a bad earth. or loose connector

If you're still stuck, get a wiring diagram and don't be frightened of it. Photocopy it and draw out the circuit with a highlight pen for clarity.

[hortoncode3]

If you have power across all the fuses and up to the connector but not to the switch I would pull the connector apart and take a peek. The switch should have one hot lead so if it doesn't it's not getting power.. One of the wires inside the connector may have backed out of the connector. It happens, they are supposed to have ears to hold them in but they do slip, especially if the harness is getting yanked on.

[gremlin]

+1  on checking your connection from the battery Negative to the chassis.

[REpozer]

+1  on checking your connection from the battery Negative to the chassis.

True! I had a bad ground at the frame from the battery. It looked fine until I looked at the spade and cleaned it with sand paper, then applied dielectric grease.

[Arizoni]

According to my UCE wiring diagram you should have a solid red wire which is connected to the + battery terminal thru a 20 amp fuse.
It should always have full battery power.

Going from the ignition switch is a red/white wire that is only powered when the ignition switch is in the ON position.  It powers everything that is controlled by the switch.

As the others said, if you don't have power at the red wire at the ignition switch the problem is the fuse, the ground or in one of the connectors.

[csbdr]

Well, turned out to be the switch. Got everything apart and the thing had fried and the red wire wasn't even connected anymore. Put in a new switch and that was fixed.....got to move onto the crapped out throttle cable and 2nd fried started solenoid... Damned thing's turning into a Ural.

[Arizoni]

It sounds like you need to buy a starter solenoid from another company.

Surely with all of the Japanese bikes around there's something that would fit and be reliable?
There currently is another post in the AVL area where a 3 pole universal lawn tractor (mower?) was bought.

According to the wiring diagram in the Service Manual the Royal Enfield solenoid has 4 connections.  A heavy one for the battery to solenoid.  A heavy one for the starter solenoid to the starter motor.  A plug in two wire connection, the blue/white wire providing power from the starter button and a black one providing a ground path thru the clutch switch.
Appearently the actual solenoids two wires that connect to this two wire connector has a green/white wire that connects to the blue/white wire on the harness and a white wire that connects to the harness black wire.

This is based on the Service Manuals discription of how to test the starter solenoid.
It says the resistance between the green/white wire and the white wire should be 4-5 ohms.  Strangely it doesn't say what the resistance between the heavy terminals should be when the solenoid is activated but if I was going to guess it would be something like 1 ohm max.

[jartist]

+1 on an aftermarket solenoid if #2 has failed. One with external terminal post would be good so you could jump the terminals in a pinch would be a bonus. I would think you should get 0 ohms on a good working solenoid when the signal wires are activated. It's basically a high power relay.