[royalove]

I just bought this 2006 Bullet Electra 500cc in near mint condition. has only 645 miles on it.
the owner had it stored for two years and when he tried the start it he said that it backfired then never started again. a mechanic (bad one apparently) worked on it and never finished.

trying to put things together i came up with this mysterious wire that goes to a strange looking connection and has nowhere to go. it's driving me crazy.

I don't want to try and start it before i figure out where the cable goes.

see picture below:
 


Now I traced it back to the small control unit (the black box below) I have the connection circled:



I tried to start it but hitting the start button doesn't do anything, nothing at all.

When I open the fuel valve the carb starts dripping from the bottom whole.

on a separate note, right behind the side kick stand there are two bolts that look like something went there. am I missing a part there? see below:


this is my first bike ever, and I absolutely love it (even though I haven't rode it yet)
this is driving me insane, the dealer doesn't know anything about it and he's too far away for me to take it there.

PLEASE HELP ME RIDE IT BEFORE I COLLAPSE MENTALLY 

(PS: IT HAS COMPRESSION AND SPARK)

[boggy]

I don't see any pics attached. If you are getting fuel leaking out when you turn on the fuel valved, then *I think* the float in your carb's float bowl is not adjusted properly. Somebody confirm that.

Attach those pics so we can see.

[Arizoni]

As you noticed, your pictures didn't make it thru the knothole.
I've found that if the picture files are very large they won't load.
If this is the problem, try reducing the size down to 800-900 pixels wide.  Also, reduce the resolution to something like 80 dpi.  Then save the picture with a different name using "save as".  It should load if it is smaller than a few hundred Kb in file size.

The dripping gasoline is due to the needle valve in the carburetor not closing.
This could be due to several things, the most likely after sitting for a few years being, the needle is stuck.

I don't know what your mechanical background is so I'll assume it is somewhat limited.  If not, please forgive my droning on and on.

The carburetor has a small reservoir (or float chamber) to store the fuel in at the proper level.
A small float, somewhat like the float in a toilet tank raises as the fuel enters and when there is enough fuel the rising float pushes up on a small metal valve at the top of the chamber.
If the valve is stuck or if the float doesn't rise the fuel will continue to flow into the carburetor.

I haven't taken one of these carburetors apart but usually there are a few screws that hold the  float chamber to the bottom of the carburetor.
Removing these screws should allow you to pull the chamber off.
Usually, the float will be hanging from a support even though the chamber is removed.  If this is true, turn on the fuel valve at the tank and push up on the float.
This should stop the flow.  If it doesn't, the needle is stuck.
Removing the float should allow you access to the needle and sometimes it can be grabbed with some pliers or pried loose with the tip of a pocket knife.
Once loosened, make sure it moves freely.  Then reinstall the float and try the "gas on" experiment again.  If it is working properly reinstall the float chamber and you will have one problem fixed.

While you have the chamber off of the carburetor notice if the float is light weight or if it is heavy.
Sometimes these will develop small leaks and fill with fuel.  With fuel inside it won't float so it can't do its job.

After you get your pictures working I'm sure we will be able to identify your mystery parts/wire.

[barenekd]

on a separate note, right behind the side kick stand there are two bolts that look like something went there. am I missing a part there?

That is probably where a side stand safety switch was. It that is not wired, nothing in the starting circuit or ignition will work.
that may be your strange will you can't identify. Ground that wire, carefully, to make sure it's not hot, then turn on the key and try the starter. Make sure it's in neutral first.
Bare

[royalove]

I'm very sorry about the pictures, I had them linked from my email account, they only showed up on my computer.

here they are, I hope it works this time.







I worked on a lot of cars before, but never on a motorcycle.

I think you're all right about the carb, that was my first guess.

other than that, this cable might be for a safety switch for the side stand as you mentioned, it does reach that area with the two bolts comfortably.

you're all so helpful thank you so much! please help me figure out where this wire goes!

[Machismo]

Is your electrical system working fine? I dont have this device on my Indian version of AVL(LB500).
And as suggested by barenekd, it would most likely be the side stand switch.
You could try the kick start and ensure the battery has enough juice in it.

[Arizoni]

Once the carburetor problem is fixed, trying to kick start it is a good idea.
Before doing it though I would check the condition of the spark plug.  Maybe just go ahead and replace it first so that shouldn't be an issue.

As for the electric starter on the new UCE RE's there are several interlocks to keep it from running unless things are correct.
The neutral light must be on.  The Kill Switch on the right handlebar must be in the run position and the key must be on.
If the transmission is not showing a neutral light, pulling in the clutch lever will by-pass that requirement.
As I say, this is on the newer UCE models but I would think the AVL would be similar.

If the electric starter still won't operate, follow the heavy battery cable to the starter solenoid.  It should end there.  Another heavy cable should run from the solenoid to the starter motor.
Bridging the two heavy solenoid terminals (if they exist) with a screw driver should provide full battery voltage to the starter causing it to try to run.

If it cranks the engine things are looking good.
If it goes "whirrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr" without the engine cranking the starter sprag clutch may be bad.
Unfortunately, this is quite common with the electric starter on the old Iron Barrels and on the AVL models.

The kick starter should work though if you remember to make sure the transmission is not in gear by first rotating the rear tire while the clutch lever is untouched.
Also, do not pull the clutch lever in while using the kick starter.  The clutch must be engaged for the kick starters power to be transmitted to the engine.

EDIT:  I fixed the NOT IN GEAR comment on the transmission.
I screwed up and said it should be in gear which is obviously wrong unless one wants to see their motorcycle disappearing down the driveway. 

[The Garbone]

I think that black square thing that all the wires are plugged to is the TCI.  If so you can call CMW with the VIN number and they will send you a newer green one gratis.  Has something to do with starting and the Estart if I recall.

[Arizoni]

YES.  Change the black box.
From what I've read the black box can set the timing to far advanced which can result in backfires and broken starter sprag clutches (not to mention a damaged leg from the kickback).

Also, what I read said the replacement green box is a free factory fix if the folks at Classic Motorworks are given the serial number, year, model etc.
Maybe the people at NfieldGear might know about it.
They can be reached at 1-800-358-0938

Maybe Kevin Mahoney, the CEO of MCW and owner of this forum might be in contact with you about this motorcycle and the Green Box fix.

How many places can a lowly peon like us talk directly to the CEO of a company?
More importantly, how many CEO's will actually help us lowly peons as eagerly as Kevin will? 

[royalove]

it seems I'm headed in the right direction thanks to all your help... the original owner mentioned that it might be the little black box as well
talking to the CEO huh? that sounds pretty cool to me!
I'm doing that early tomorrow!

still it seems nobody confirmed where that connector goes...
I looked online for a side stand safety switch and got 0 results... do royals come with that safety feature?
I know the main bike stand has one and it's connected.

now on my list:
1- fix the carb.
2- try to kick start it.
3- figure out where that wire goes.
4- get a new TCI (that black box)
5- RIDE THAT DAMN THING

[Lwt Big Cheese]

Get your right head on and enjoy this bit whilst anticipating the ride. It's going to be sweet when your done.

[Tiny Tim]

OK, last picture first. It apears that the side stand has been removed. The side stand incorporates a switch that connects to the TCI Unit (the black box) With the stand down, a short circuit is presented to the two green wires on the TCI. If you have no side stand and therefore no switch, pull this plug.

Third picture. This would apear to be the Black TCI unit. The set up it has is thought to be part of the problem with the sprag clutch self destructing. Change it for a green one.

Pictures one and two may well be part of the side stand switch but it isn't clear.

Fix the carb leak before you think about starting.

The most important advice I can give you is to make sure that your tickover is hight enough to prevent stalling. THIS IS WHEN THE SPRAG GOES BANG! It's nothing to do with starting but stopping that does the damage.

[royalove]

ok, So far everything's moving smoothly.

I called the number you ever so generously provided and gave them my VIN number, a new upgraded green TCI unit is on its way to me, (for free!!) never was I so lucky in getting free parts.

It is now confirmed that this cable goes to the side stand. it causes more problems being there so I'm removing it (or closing the circuit not sure yet).

am about to walk out and clean the carb to stop the leak...

I have a feeling I'm going to ride it next week!!!

you're all so awesomely helpful   

I'll post pictures of it as soon as I have it running

[The Garbone]

I am not 100 sure about your model motor but if you have a rubber manifold tube between the carb and head you may want to check it for cracks and rot as those go bad over time.  Also if the PAV it there (small hose going into the intake manifold after the carb) you can remove that and cap the hole, it just causes trouble also.

Sounds like your on the right track.  Good luck and enjoy the ride.

[Tiny Tim]

The side stand switch cable goes to the TCI unit via the battey cover. Removing the 2-wire connector with the two green wires (that you have circled) will isolate the side stand wiring. A short circuit of these two terminals on the TCI inhibits the ignition and therefore the spark. (Handy if you want to fit an isolate switch).